Going on Safari - beginners' guide

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Category: Animals / Wildlife

Going on Safari - beginners' guide - Peter Bargh shares some tips to help you take better photos when you go on a wildlife safari.

Posted: 3rd January 2001
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Going on Safari - beginners' guideI was recently invited to assist a group of photographers who were prizewinners of a HP European competition. The group won a safari holiday to the Chobe National Park and had the opportunity to photograph some of the finest wildlife. From the trip I picked up lots of extra useful tips that will help you if you plan to take a safari holiday.
Peter Bargh, ePHOTOzine

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

CAMERA & LENS
Photographers have the choice of a wide variety of equipment ranging from compact cameras to SLRs to digital, but for a safari the most important thing is the lens. While it's possible to get fairly close to many animals there will be some that will be too far away for a short zoom lens of up to 70mm to fill the frame. Ideally in these circumstances you'd need a lens of 300mm or longer. I used Sigma's 50-500mm zoom, a perfect choice for close ups and distant subjects, on a Canon EOS100.
You can take a photograph with a 35mm camera and enlarge the centre portion but this isn't advisable with a digital camera, as you'll lower the quality too much. In such situations it's probably better to just enjoy the moment and try and take a shot on another day when you may be lucky enough to get closer to similar animals.

ACCESSORIES
There isn't much room when travelling in the safari jeeps to be carrying lots of gear. SLR owners who're shooting using a 300mm or more could consider taking a monopod to support the camera but in most cases it's better to use the roof bars of the vehicle you travel in as a sturdy support when it's stationary. Wait until no one is moving in the vehicle before you take a photo.
Use a polarising filter to reduce glare and increase saturation.
Use a lens hood to prevent flare that, in turn, reduces contrast. If you don't have a hood shade the lens with your hand, but watch you don't get it in the viewfinder.
Carry spare batteries and take plenty of film. ISO100 or 200 is perfect for most of the trip, but switch over to ISO400 to take advantage in low light or when a longer lens is being used.
A pair of compact binoculars is a handy item to have with you to look at animals that are too far away to photograph.
Take a pocket torch if you intend going on a night drive so you can see the controls on your camera.


PHOTO TIPS
If you've planned several safari treks don't go mad shooting all your film on the first day. You may have better sightings later.
Many scenes can confuse your camera's automatic metering. If the scene is bright and light toned the camera may compensate and make the picture too dark, resulting in the animal in the middle becoming a silhouette. This will happen when shooting a bird on a branch with the bright sky as a background. To avoid this, point the camera at something of similar tone to the main subject and either lock the exposure, manually change to the indicated reading or use exposure compensation.
In bright mid day the harsh sunlight will create deep shadows that can be reduced using flash as a fill-in source. As a guide set the flash to half power when the subject is backlit or has deep shadows. Set it to quarter power when the sun is out but shadows aren't as harsh.
Try to include something in the foreground to add a sense of depth when shooting landscapes. A rock, tree stump or person will add scale and interest.
Use the focus lock when using an autofocus camera to shoot a subject that's off centre. Point the camera at the main subject, press the shutter release halfway down and hold, recompose and press fully down to take the picture.
Many cameras have an automatic flash. If you try to take a picture of a sunset or night scene the flash will probably fire. Most can be switched off for more natural results.
Don't be afraid to ask your guide to stop the vehicle if you spot something interesting.


DIGITAL TECHNIQUES
If you can't get all the subject in the frame, either because the lens isn't wide enough or there isn't enough room to step back, you could try taking several pictures from the same viewpoint, but with a different part of the image in each shot. Then scan the pictures into the computer and stitch them together to make a Joiner. Try doing this by shooting a landscape in several sections and joining them to make a super-wide panorama.
Plan digital montages. Shoot several subjects that would look good together and blend them together using soft edged cutouts in your image-editing program. If you have a program that allows layers place each element on a different layer and change opacity to create a successful blend.


WARNING
Although cameras are light tight and film can be loaded in daylight it's best to load in the shade to avoid any chance of fogging the film. If you can't find a shaded area, shield the camera from the sun using your body.
When it's dusty avoid changing lenses on your SLR as the dust can easily get inside the camera and cause damage. This applies to film too. If you need to change film take a small blower brush and clean the film chamber when you reload to avoid dust scratching the film.
Keep your exposed films in your hand luggage on the return trip home - airport x-ray machines are film safe - cargo ones generally aren't!
Keep an eye on your camera and avoid having too much on show to tempt potential thieves. If you have a camera holdall don't leave it unattended. Tread on the strap if you place it on the floor when taking shots to avoid it being snatched. Keep your camera strap around your neck or wrap it around your wrist.


Going on Safari - beginners' guide
Look out for smaller birds in the treetops, they are often disguised and the safari guide is more interested in finding the large game that he often neglects the smaller creatures. If you see one in a branch and want to take a photo ask to stop - you're paying and they will oblige. You'll usually need at least 500mm to get a shot that fills the frame, though. This one took up a third of the 35mm frame and needed cropping that has reduced the quality.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide

Going on Safari - beginners' guide
If you have the opportunity to take a boat cruise try and pick one that goes with smaller parties in a smaller boat. It may cost a little more but they can often get to more secluded locations and you don't have to worry about people getting in the way of you when taking a photo.

The larger carrier may give you the opportunity to meet and chat with other photographers but it has its downside. Passengers are encouraged to sit evenly on the boat to distribute weight across the deck and ensure that the boat doesn't lean over dangerously. When it goes to the edge of a bank after spotting wildlife photographers naturally want to rush to one side, which would cause the boat to lean to heavily. You may miss the action if it's all on one side of the boat.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
The guides will take you to watering holes, riverbanks to look for wildlife that is drinking or bathing. I caught the bird mid-flight here to balance the picture.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide

Going on Safari - beginners' guide
The time of year can reflect the sort of pictures you're able to find. We were lucky the rainy season had ended and the elephants needed to bathe and drink. A ready finger on the shutter is necessary to capture the exact moment. Here I have one example with the elephants both drinking and a second with the parent having a wash. I've used a digital technique to knock the background slightly out of focus giving a greater sense of depth.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
The fish eagle has to be one of the most beautiful birds of prey and can be seen by the river side on decaying tree stumps or high in the branches of nearby trees. Watch the angle - the sun creates high contrast, which often makes the bird almost silhouetted. If the bird is on a tree that you're passing, see if the shot from the other side offers better lighting and take a second one from there.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
Giraffes tend to be quite away of the beaten track. This one was shot at 500mm and the body was hidden behind bushes so I've cropped to make best use of the situation.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
On many of the popular safaris the site of the herd of jeeps daily out hunting for great photos probably makes the lions bored to tears. This one didn't stir as the jeep came right up to the side of it lazing in the shade. The fact it also had a collar on (used to monitor its safety by the park) made the whole thing seem like a farce. Still, a touch of digital magic removed the collar so it looks less like a pet!
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
This cub was in the shade ands backlit against the bright sunlit bushes. I used exposure compensation, taking the reading from the shady ground and adjusted further when the scan was made.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
I caught a heard of impala running and used the panning technique to get this one mid air out of a dozen or so shots. Use a fast shutter speed and follow the action as you press the shutter for best results.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide
We were told this elephant had lived longer than the expected age and it certainly looked like it. I waited until it walked behind the water to get the reflection. Once again if you spot an opportunity ask the driver to stop or wait until the moment is right.
 
Going on Safari - beginners' guide

Going on Safari - beginners' guide
You can photograph the sun rising and sun setting almost everywhere but nothing beats the rich African glow. The sunset includes fishermen out on the Chobe River while the sunrise was a 7.00am morning overlooking misty woodland on the banks of the Zambezi River.

 

 

 

 

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