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I have a nikon f60/N60 and i have 400 iso film i want to manual change it on my camera so the iso is 1200 any ideas?
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If I remember correctly you couldn't manually override the iso on the F60. At one time you could buy different iso labels to put on the film canister for cameras with no manual override and Jessops used to sell them.
Your film will always be 400 iso and if you could change the iso in camera the film processing time would need to be changed to reflect it.
Would it work by changing the exposure?
is there an exposure compensation setting on the camera? (underexposing a 400 ISO film by 1 & half stops should be ISO 1200 IIRC)
Yeah there is thank you i shall try under exposing it!
If it is colour print film, all you'll get is underexposed pictures. Labs don't change the processing for c41 film. Non-chromogenic black and white (ie not XP2 or Kodak HC B&W etc) you can push process, as can E6 slide, but it will cost a bit more unless you do it yourself.
If you need the speed, why not just get a roll of high ISO film? Fuji 1600 or something will suit you better and the grain and contrast should be better than pushing a slower film.
Your camera should automatically set the film speed to match the DX-coded film that you insert.
If you don't have a manual for your camera, have a look at it here: http://www.bgfoto.net/upload/downloads/pdf/Nikon/nikon_f60.pdf
Yes, the camera sets the DX as coded on the casette, but the OP wants to change it from 400 to 1200. As there is no manual override in camera, and the default speed for non-coded films is 100 (I believe), they will have to recode the film casette. You can download the ISO patterns and bodge the film code with silver tape and masking tape, or you can buy recoder strips to stick on the film casette. Both of these will fool the camera's DX reader into setting a different speed. However, why not just buy a faster film? As I said above, pushing a colour print (C41) film will just result in muddy shadows and compromised contrast when printed, as you don't adjust the film dev time.
I have illford HP5 black and white film, which I read some where can be pushed, ill be developing it by hand so the developing process isn't a problem.
If you can't find dx coding stickers you could look for the dx coding pattern and make your own film cassette cover using tin foil squares on a sticky label . The camera film contacts need to connect to specific patches to set ISO. Look up the pattern for ISO1200.
Or, as suggested, the simple solution is to set exposure compensate to under expose for the whole roll of film.
So if i set my exposure rate to -1.5 should that compensate for my iso?
If its hp5, then set exposure comp to -2, ie expose as if it was 1600 ISO, then when you develop it, extend the dev time by multiplying by 1.7x.
Ie if your normal dev time is 10 mins, extend it to 17 mins.
I used to push up to 3 stops on black and white film and extend the dev time accordingly....1stop, multiply by 1.3x, 2 stops multiply by 1.7x and 3 stops by 2.1x. Then add 30 secs to a minute for luck and to push contrast slightly, so for 2 stops and a base time of 10 mins, I'd end up with a time of around 18 mins. The stop and fix we're kept at the usual time.
That should give you a good clean negative to print or scan.
Are you planning to do astrophotography? In such an occasion you need a lower ISO film with the finest grain possible (50 ISOor lower) pushed. A friend who did astrophotography had told me that there used to be a Konica film of 50 ISO which under a Gas Hypersensitization process developed sensitivity of 3600. If you want to do astrophotography with film look here: http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/FILM/HYPERING.HTM Konica doesn't manufacture filme anymore but the process is the same.
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