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Any substitute for 10 stop filters ?

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JanieB43
JanieB43  647 forum posts England6 Constructive Critique Points
16 Aug 2009 - 4:04 PM

Hey Guys,
Having seen Robbos' upload of the Glamorgan Heritage Coast (mono "Time and Motion") in which he used a B+W 10 stop filter I'm wondering (as they're quite pricey) if there's an alternative/cheaper method of achieving the same effect. Does it work if you use an 8 & a 4 stop grad together ?

Yours (the skinflint Wink)
Jane

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16 Aug 2009 - 4:04 PM

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Kris_Dutson
16 Aug 2009 - 5:31 PM

Thick tights should do the trick. Wink

Failing that, a combination of other NDs adding up to ten will work but may degrade the image due to the quantity of plastic in front of the lens.

JanieB43
JanieB43  647 forum posts England6 Constructive Critique Points
16 Aug 2009 - 6:22 PM


Quote: Thick tights should do the trick

Hmmmmmmm ...........Anyone know what number Nora Batty lives at ? Wink

Seriously though - thanks for the tip.
Jane

MikeA
MikeA  91151 forum posts England
16 Aug 2009 - 7:00 PM

Mentioned on here some time ago, two polarising filters, turn in opposing directions until you get the light reduction you require.

geoffrey baker
geoffrey baker e2 Member 10496 forum postsgeoffrey baker vcard Wales1 Constructive Critique Points
16 Aug 2009 - 7:44 PM

Well, if you want to slow things right down in bright sunlight then I'd recommend the 10 stop but if you do it in the evening or early morning when the light is dimmer then a 6 stop would work just fine, plus you could always add a polariser or ND grads to that to slow things down even further.

I'm finding my 10 stop a bit too dark for the CCD sensor on my Sony A350, if I go over about 30 seconds I get lots of dead & hot pixels showing as little coloured lights all over the photo Sad

I've heard that long exposures can cause a lot of heat on the sensor and can cause damage over time.

So I end up using mine at around f8.

I'll keep it in the hope that my next camera will be able to handle it.

Geoff.

Helpful Post! This post was flagged as helpful
steve_kershaw
16 Aug 2009 - 10:17 PM

IF you put a linear polarizer on top of a circular polarizer you get a variable ND filter, form 2-8 stops, never tried it myself, but apparently it works well

keithknight
16 Aug 2009 - 10:32 PM

If you are after the effect of a non-graduated ND filter and have a Nikon D200, D300 (and I assume D3 etc) then just use the multiple exposure mode - up to 10 shots combined in camera.

I have used this a lot to reduce ripples on lakes and increase motion blur on waterfalls etc.

Fairclough
17 Aug 2009 - 12:48 AM


Quote: If you are after the effect of a non-graduated ND filter and have a Nikon D200, D300 (and I assume D3 etc) then just use the multiple exposure mode - up to 10 shots combined in camera.

D'OH! Why did I never think of that?

Alternatively, you could wait until sunset :O)

JanieB43
JanieB43  647 forum posts England6 Constructive Critique Points
17 Aug 2009 - 3:18 PM

Forgot to mention - my camera's a canon 400D !!!!

knackeredoldman

.. also:

- reduce ISO (every time you 1/2 it you add a stop)
- reduce the Av size, each full stop is of course a full stop (there are more settings than the full stops on your camera though).

I'm guessing you want the long exposure time that you get from these filters not the dodgy colour cast you get sometimes ;o) you could just get the colour casgt in PS.

Cheers,

Ade

knackeredoldman

Geoffrey - if you are suffering hot pixels over 30 secs that sounds very bad. Have you tried letting the camera cool down enough between shots? I have had bad 30 sec shots but generally I find this is after 4 or 5 shots when I have not left sufficient time between shots.

I've not used the sony but that still sounds bad if that is from a cold start.

Cheers,

Ade

joolsb
joolsb  927115 forum posts Switzerland38 Constructive Critique Points
9 Sep 2009 - 9:49 PM

Seems to me like a 10-stop grad is just an expensive way of avoiding an early start. If you want to do long exposures, going out at twilight and using a low iso and small aperture (high f-stop) is your best bet. It's a lot cheaper, too....

Last Modified By joolsb at 9 Sep 2009 - 9:50 PM
Coleslaw
Coleslaw e2 Member 913403 forum postsColeslaw vcard Wales28 Constructive Critique Points
9 Sep 2009 - 9:50 PM

....or making the best of the weather condition?

knackeredoldman


Quote: Seems to me like a 10-stop grad is just an expensive way of avoiding an early start. If you want to do long exposures, going out at twilight and using a low iso and small aperture (high f-stop) is your best bet. It's a lot cheaper, too....

Generally I'm with you Jools but there are times where is no substitute, for instance if you want daylight, shadows, a specific tide point etc .

Gary_Macleod
9 Sep 2009 - 10:00 PM

link

might be some help

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