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Biggest aperture you have, Shutter priority, Maybe 800 or more ISO & fastest shutter speed you can muster, which obviously is dependent on lighting conditions.
Hope that helps
Daz
PS
what are you photographing & what setting have you been using to achieve these blurry photos
With respect you cannot actually answer that question accurately without being there.....that said the reciprocal rule - shutter speed matching focal length - helps.....as does the use of wider apertures, higher ISO, stabilised lenses and so on.
Aperture/ISO will get you shutter speed, and stabilised lenses will remove some of the user invoked movement blur associated with lower light shooting. You will have to experiment - there is no magic set of settings 
best of luck.....
Biggest aperture you have, aperture priority and as high an ISO as you need to get a high enough shutter speed. Maybe use manual if need be.
If you use shutter priority, the camera will struggle to shoot if it wants more light than the shutter speed can provide at max aperture.
No one can really tell you what exact settings to use without knowing the exact light readings, so that bit's up to you...but get as high a shutter speed as you can at max aperture commensurate with the amount of noise you can deal with. Better a noisy sharp image than a blurred one for sport.
Nick
Quote: stabilised lenses and so on
IS is likely to make bugger all difference in action photography. IS stabilises the camera not the subject - and in action photography its the subject that is moving fast.
The problem is likely to be one of an insufficient shutter speed to freeze the subjects movement. Therefore you need to crank up the shutter speed. As others have rightly pointed out - you can do this by increasing the ISO sensitivity and shooting at f2.8. I'm assuming as its a sport that flash is a complete no go. What settings were you using?
A.
For those settings, I would suggest first off, pushing your ISO up to, say 400 for a start. That will give you well over 2 stops more speed. Set the aperture to f/2.8. That will give you another 4 stops to play with, so say 6 total.
Don't know what your shutter speed was, but assuming 1/60 sec, those extra 6 stops will allow you to push it up to 1/4000 which should be plenty fast enough to freeze motion. It all depends what your starting point was really.
Nick
I shoot football under the floodlights and using the 70-200 2.8 wide open, to get anything like the shutter speed you need to get the players sharp (1/500 minimum) you'd be looking at an ISO of at least 1600. (And turn off the IS - it won't help you with action shots).
"Tv mode, shutter speed set in high, Aperture 12,ISO @64". Your problem appears to be in your statement. You need the highest shutter speed you can get so - you need a much higher ISO - up to 800 I have used with acceptable noise - as has been said, aperture priority and set the aperture to wide open - you're not two feet away from the action so your DOF should be OK - then the camera will select the highest shutter speed to give you correct exposure at those settings.
You can even put the ISO up further - experiment but not at ISO 64!
Is there an Auto ISO setting in M mode with that camera, if there is you could always try it.
You might find this a good read.
I`ve never ever used auto ISO in the past, but I have since discovered that it can really be useful at times with the OMD in M mode.
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/0206161199/an-in-depth-discussion-of-m-auto-iso...
hi just happened to glance through problems. a monopod or tripod come to mind. beanbag if you are at the front. anything to ease your shakes.
matthecat
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