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Can't sync my Canon EOS 30D with my studio flasheads


1 Oct 2011 4:13PM
Hi All,

I bought 2 No. prolite 82 studio flash heads second hand as I am trying to get some serious studio work done in the coming months.

When I hooked them up and tried to use them I noticed that I was missing the flash of the studio heads, I've tried various shutter speeds from 1/250 down to 1/60 and I still cannot seem to get the sync right. I tried my friends studio flashes and the same thing happened, so I looked at my camera but everything seems to be fine there..... If anyeone knows what I'm doing wrong or has had the same experiences that i am having I would be very grateful for the help.

Thanks in advance

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1 Oct 2011 4:19PM
I forgot to add that I am using the in built photo cell to trigger the flash....which works but not in sync with mt camera....
MeanGreeny e2
9 3.7k England
1 Oct 2011 4:34PM
Sounds like the studio flash are firing when the camera pre-flashes prior to the main flash when in E-TTL mode

From WIKI:

The pre-flash occurs immediately before the main flash (except when using the camera / flash in 2nd curtain synch mode) and is barely perceptible, although can be seen if you watch carefully for it. The pre-flash may cause undesirable reactions of animate objects. E.g., humans may blink as a reaction to the pre-flash, and have their eyes closed by the time the main flash occurs. When using flash exposure lock (FEL), the pre-flash is fired when FEL is activated.

Is there a setting on the Prolites that allows the slaves to fire on the 2nd flash they see ?
1 Oct 2011 4:51PM
Thanks for the reply, I already tried it in 2nd curtain just to make sure and it's still the same... and the FEL has to be pressed manually with my 30D...
1 Oct 2011 5:00PM

Quote:
Is there a setting on the Prolites that allows the slaves to fire on the 2nd flash they see ?



There is no setting that allows this on the prolites
thewilliam 6 4.9k
1 Oct 2011 7:29PM
Firstly, is there a setting that can disable the pre-flash? It'll be buried in the menu system.

Have you tried an infra-red flash trigger? They slot into the hot shoe and basically work like a very small flashgun but give out very little visible light. You'd need to disable the on-camera flash. Our flash triggers give out a coded signal so that we can choose which flash units are triggered.
Paul Morgan e2
13 16.1k 6 England
2 Oct 2011 12:14AM
Or just a sync lead.
User_Removed 10 3.3k 4 United Kingdom
2 Oct 2011 2:57AM
Something like this cheap wireless trigger can be used to wirelessly fire one studio head (which itself can trigger the second optically)
thewilliam 6 4.9k
2 Oct 2011 11:59AM
Many modern cameras don't have a sync socket but you can get an adapter that goes into the hot shoe.
Paul Morgan e2
13 16.1k 6 England
2 Oct 2011 2:14PM
Before checking wireless options first make sure that there are no issues with the heads, beg, borrow or buy a cheap sync lead and go from there.
2 Oct 2011 2:19PM
Hi Guys, thanks for all the replies.... I have got an IR transmitter and reciever which which fits into the hotshoe of my camera, the reciever has been plugged into the 1/4 inch socket on the top of the prolite studio flash but doesnt seem to do anything at all, my camera does have a PC socket but I havent tried that as yet as I dont have a sync lead. This is really baffeling me as my IR wireless triggers work perfectly well with my flash guns but not with my studio flash heads. I also have the optical light triggers, they work but not in sync with my Canon 30d...Sad
2 Oct 2011 2:21PM
Thanks for all your help guys, I think that a sync lead will be my Monday purchase!
miked70 e2
5 225 3 South Africa
3 Oct 2011 6:13AM
need to change to manual flash on camera flash cant us any form of ttl that easy ir you can just use a cheap radio trigger/receiver to do the talikng and shutter around 1/200 really makes no difference but most camera's today cant shoot higher than 1/250
miked70 e2
5 225 3 South Africa
3 Oct 2011 6:17AM
as far as IR you need to behind the studio lights for the studio lights to "see" the IR and a lot of them have very poor ability to see the darker it get and smaller the studio the better they are and if your studio has black walls they you will still battle
MeanGreeny e2
9 3.7k England
3 Oct 2011 11:04AM

Quote:As far as IR you need to behind the studio lights for the studio lights to "see" the IR and a lot of them have very poor ability to see the darker it get


Not entirely true - IR triggers fail as lights e.g. sunlight, gets brighter - not darker. People who shoot flash outdoors tend not to use IR purely because of this and favour radio triggers.

Some IR triggers are now much better about throwing the signal behind the camera.

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