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Hi all.
Anyone got any experience of this calibration kit?
Is it any good?
I'm all ears....![]()
Care to expand on that, Keith?
It's difficult to read between the lines when your response is so characteristically succinct ![]()
Cool.
Thanks guys.
It's on offer at Amazon and I have a gift voucher, too.
Just needed to know if it wa a worthwhile purchase.
Cheers ![]()
Better get my skates on then!
Or there won't be any left!
![]()
Order is placed - should be here in a couple of days....
Then I'll be asking stupid questions like "which way up does it go??"...![]()
Thanks for the comments guys - just what I was after
Of course, the real question is "How do you know that it is actually working correctly?"
I use it to calibrate my monitors and am happy with the results. But I use two identical Dell 27" U2711 Ultrasharps and when I use the Spyder to calibrate both, they are never exactly the same in terms of tones and tints. Both are good enough for my purposes (i.e. general photoprocessing) but the fact there are slight differences means that one (or possibly both) are not quite right.
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Yep, LF that's a good point.
Still,l I've spent the money now and it'll be better than not using anything except the screen's own software (Samsung).
I'm sure it'll be good enough for my needs.
Quote: Yep, LF that's a good point.
Still,l I've spent the money now and it'll be better than not using anything except the screen's own software (Samsung).
I'm sure it'll be good enough for my needs.
Yep.
The real benefit of calibrating your screen using Spyder (or similar) is that if you process a photograph on your computer and then send it to a website (like here) or to a competition, or whatever, then anyone looking at your photograph should see something fairly similar to what you see - provided, of course, that they have also calibrated their monitor.
For example, I know that an image projected on our camera club projector will look similar to my left-hand monitor but a wee bit less like my right-hand monitor. So when processing digital images for club competitions, I do so with the image on my l-h screen and my palettes on the r-h. My printer, on the other hand, using the standard Epson profiles, produces prints pretty well identical to my r-h monitor - so if processing for a print, I reverse the use of the screens.
In reality, I suspect that the reason I do get a slight difference between the two screens is that they are getting a different mix of ambient light falling on them (although, theoretically, I thought Spyder 4 should have compensated for that. Maybe I need to position the doofur differently.
The colours that are different between two calibrated monitors will theoretically be those that exceed the gamut of one or the other, or both, in which case the colour is clipped and mapped to the nearest in-gamut equivalent. At least that's the case when using programs such as Photoshop. So profiling theoretically provides consistency, but not carbon-copy consistency (it should obviously be close, in an ideal world, between two identical models). Comparing identical desktop images in Windows is one way of observing monitor colour without the added complication of the profile.
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