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I`ve had the D7000 for a couple of weeks now and I have found it has a tendency to overexpose slightly resulting in burnt out highlights, I have made an 0.7ev adjustment to the camera to compensate for this and seems to do the trick. Question is, is this normal for the D7000 and if it is how has others dealt with the problem?. Apart from that its an amazing piece of kit and the AF is super fast compared to my last system.
Any help/advice on setting up the camera would be most welcome.
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Hi Cliff. Check your active D lighting settings. When I got my D7000 they were set on by default and I was struggling with everything being bright until I found them and turned them off.
If that doesn't sort it check that you are using matrix metering, if you are using spot or centre weighted without knowing it that could give unexpected results.
Hope that helps.
Nikons generally do tend to expose for shadow at the expense of highlights - the D80 was especially bad in this respect. However, in most circumstances I have not found this an issue with my D7000. However, do bear in mind that matrix metering is biased towards correct exposure of the point of focus so, if for example the focus is on a large black steam train that dominates the picture a pale sky will be washed out as the camera tries to render the black as a mid grey. In this case -0.7 V is a good fix in my experience. For scenes with more balanced contrast there there should be no real need for adjustment. If you are shooting JPEG is is worth checking that you have Active D Lighting set to both On and Auto - the camera will then try adjust the exposure based on the scene. If you shoot RAW but process in Nikon software then Active D still works, though other software usually ignores it as far as I know.
Off topic but also important with a D7000 is to ensure that in custom settings Autofocus setting a3 is set to OFF. I also have both AF-C and AF-S priority set to Focus. This avoids most if not all of the supposed back focus issues that exercise some on a certain US forum.
Saxon Image. Sorry also for going off topic. How many focus points do you use? I tend to use one central fixed point - focus on subject - and then, holding button half down compose my frame. How do you do it? Most of my subjects tend to be stationary. I also have both AF-C and AF-S priority set to Focus.
One thing to be aware of when using Matrix metering is current Nikon bodies bias exposure toward the illumination at the selected autofocus point.
I shoot with 2 cards, NEF + jpeg. If the photo is a "keeper" then I can make adjustments to the RAW file in post-processing. Otherwise I delete it.
In AF-S I try to stick to the cross-type sensors (the centre 9 points) for accuracy but also use any appropriate to the scene. In AF-C I use 21 point dynamic for general moving shots or 9 point for macro.
By the way, there is a useful example of 'known to work well' D7000 settings here.
saxon_image. Many thanks. That will be exceedingly useful. Chris
What meter pattern are you using? "Spot" can give some strange results.
No Matrix metering, with the Fn button set to Spot if I think I need it.
Well thanks for a great response everyone and I certainly have plenty things to try and play around with and some very interesting pointers with the metering system.all in all a fair bit to get my head around! , Hopefully the weather will be ok tomorrow and I can get out and give one or two things a try.
Ian, In what situation would I need the D lighting? never had it on the K5 so not sure what it does, It was actually set to Auto !.
Paul, thanks for the link it looks very useful indeed.
Thanks again folks your help and advice is most welcome
From what I can gather it is designed for strong contrast situations (eg bright sunlight). I must admit though that I have never (knowingly) used it yet.
Quote: From what I can gather it is designed for strong contrast situations (eg bright sunlight)
Thanks Ian and when we get some I`ll test it out
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