0

Depth of field ?

Forums > Taking photos > Depth of field ?

Join Now

Join ePHOTOzine, the friendliest photography community.

Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more for free!

Leave a Comment
    First · Prev | 1 | Next · Last
    bill m
    8
    85 forum posts
    24 Oct 2003 - 7:31 AM
    0

    I recently saw a couple of chaffinches perching obligingly on a dry stone wall in Dorset. The opportunity was too good to miss, and I tried to think quickly. I already had the 100 - 300 mm zoom attached, and my thought processes were: they might move, so I'll go for the fastest shutter speed I can the easy way to arrive at that without too much trial and error, I thought, is to set my widest aperture on the Av setting, which I did. With zoom at full stretch, I snapped. On receiving my photo back, I can now see what has happened: one of the birds looks lovely, and is perfectly in focus; the other, no more than a few inches away along the wall, is very out of focus. Is this a depth of field question? If so, how could I have avoided it, while still retaining a fast shutter speed ? Or should I have taken the risk that they wouldn't move, and gone for a smaller aperture and slower shutter speed ? Thoughts as to how others manage to "think on their feet" in these opportunistic situations would be welcome to this relative beginner.

    Sponsored Links
    Sponsored Links
    24 Oct 2003 - 7:31 AM

    Join ePHOTOzine for free and remove these adverts.

    User_Removed
    24 Oct 2003 - 8:12 AM
    0

    Hi Bill

    Experience is of course a good teacher.

    I take a lot of wildlife stuff for my own pleasure (plug for the website at www.barrieharwood.co.uk

    Pete
    Pete (ePHOTOzine Staff)
    11
    16713 forum postsPete vcard ePz Advertiser England86 Constructive Critique Points
    24 Oct 2003 - 8:13 AM
    0

    If you reduce the aperture to ensure greater depth of field the shutter speed will become slower so it's a balance between camera shake/subject movement and front to back subject sharpness. Ways round this are to use faster film to allow a smaller aperture without affecting the shutter speed or stand further away or use a wider angle lens (depth of field increase)In both the latter options you then need to enlarge the picture by cropping at the printing stage.

    The combination of telephoto lens and largest aperture, especially if you are reasonably close to the subject, is always going to give very shallow DOF.

    The obvious answer is to shoot a few frames at different apertures, which you should be able to do quite quickly on aperture priority. But you need a sufficiently fast film loaded to get fast enough shutter speeds to avoid camera shake, especially with a long lens!

    If I use Av setting, unless I specifically want deep / shallow DOF I try to set about f8, so there's some differential focus and the lens is at its sharpest.

    Steve

    BTW, I didn't mean to repeat Pete & Barrie, they just type faster!

    Pete
    Pete (ePHOTOzine Staff)
    11
    16713 forum postsPete vcard ePz Advertiser England86 Constructive Critique Points
    24 Oct 2003 - 8:33 AM
    0

    Looks like Barrie's the quickest on the draw!

    railton
    24 Oct 2003 - 8:38 AM
    0

    As well as all that bracket wildly Bill [ Hicock ] and shoot lots of frames. That is how the wildlife pro's ensure they get the paying shot.

    bill m
    8
    85 forum posts
    24 Oct 2003 - 8:39 AM
    0



    All
    Thanks for the help. In particular, I think I was surprised that depth of field can have such an impact where such a short distance is concerned, over the difference, as Barrie indicates, between a fox's nose and the end of his snout ! (Or, in my case, between two little birdies a couple of inches apart).

    Thanks again now, how do I persuade those birdies to come back nicely for another try ?

    bramo
    8
    57 forum posts
    24 Oct 2003 - 9:30 AM
    0

    Question for Barry.

    I'm a bit of a rank amatuer, but a recent trip to Africa has given me the Wildlife buzz.

    Up until now all of my photos were taken using a Canon Elph APS camera. Only after my trip did I find this camera 'wanting'. Do you find 400mmm to be enough zoom for most of you wildlife stuff? I've now got an SLR (Pentax) and I'm trying to figure out which zoom lens to get.

    I can get a 80-320 Pentax SMC lens for a good price. I'm currently weighing that against a Sigma 135-400 (300 squids on the online shop here). I am concerned that I may miss the extra bit of zoom if I get the Pentax lens.

    Main uses will be for Wildlife and cricket. I know neither of them are particularly fast lenses, but I'm not spending more than 300 pounds...

    Bucks
    9
    238 forum posts
    24 Oct 2003 - 10:05 AM
    0

    Bramo,
    I recently returned from my third safari trip. (And am so happy to back in the gray rainy city) I used a sigma 70-300 apo (great, but heavy) and a 400mm prime lens (heavier). When I eventually put some shot up you can compare, but for mammals the 70-300 was nearly always enough, whereas for birds even the 400 was a bit short. I have a vivitar 500mm mirror also, but I find it very hard to focus and it would be no good for moving subjects, I would miss them all.
    For wildlife at home the 300mm is fine for waterbirds, Deer in parks (bit short up the mountains), and small birds on your bird table if you have it well set up.
    For Cricket, a mirror lens may be suitable, as you can focus on the either wicket in advance, and get either the bowler or batsman. Like any sport, the more you know it the better your shots will be. If you know the style of the batsman or bowler, and can interpret the re positioning of the fielders you should be able to get good shots of the fielders too. Above all with sield sports position yourself to make the most of the light, and try to get an uncluttered background.
    Enjoy.

    User_Removed
    24 Oct 2003 - 10:54 AM
    0

    Hi James (Bramo)

    First of all - I'd love to go to Africa and have never been so I am very jealous!

    For most of the 'big' wildlife stuff I shoot, the 400mm end of my 100-400 zoom has been more than adequate. In fact, when I was in the Everglades a couple of years back, the birds were just too close (in Florida, the birds just throw themselves at the camera - no real naturalists skill involved).

    The beauty of the zoom is flexibility although there is some trade off in the maximum aperture which can affect focussing speed and viewfinder brightness but the quality these days is so good that for all practical purposes, the image quality is as good as that with a prime lens (and a lot cheaper on the whole).

    Referring back to Depth of Field, you just need to remember that if you focus on the same point with a varity of lenses at the same aperture, then the depth of field will generally decrease as the focal length increases.

    Barrie

    bramo
    8
    57 forum posts
    24 Oct 2003 - 11:04 AM
    0

    Thanks Barrie and Mr Buckley.

    While I have Mr Buckley cornered...

    Conns cameras (just off Grafton St - I think you'll know where I mean) have the Pentax SMC 80-320 for about 250 euro, given your advice it will probably do me for most of my 'africa' stuff (hippos, elephant, crocs etc) so it'll save me some money compared to the Sigma 135-400.

    I know cricket, but it's the photography I'm learning - I must confess to not having a clue what you mean with the 'mirror' lens stuff. I'm only an enthusiastic amatuer so whatever zoom I get for the wildlife will do for the cricket.

    Mark, I've read a post from you before re Fuji Sensia - a few shops in Dublin have this for 10 euro process paid which seems quite good. Do you think the results are as good as with Velvia/Provia?

    Many thanks Barrie/Mark for your time.

    Bucks
    9
    238 forum posts
    29 Oct 2003 - 12:51 PM
    0

    Sensia as good as Provia- very little between then, - as good as Velvia- no, but I want the extra stop. Once you take price and handiness into the equation there is no contest.
    That lens does sound good value, but check around the other main shops in town before buying. If any shop has a sigma 70-300 apo for a similar price give it serious consideration too. (try them on the camera, the Sigma may hunt and chuck a bit (mine does!) and focus slower than the pentax, burt it may be sharper and better handling, which is always personal preference).
    A mirror lens is a type of telephoto with a fixed focal length usually 500mm, and fixed aperture usually F8. the mirrors fold the focal length in three, so the lenses are very small for their focal length. They are usually lighter and cheaper than normal lenses, but you have no aperture control, so no control over depth of field. There are usually a few second hand ones available around town.

    First · Prev | 1 | Next · Last

    Add a Comment

    You must be a member to leave a comment

    Username:
    Password:
    Remember me:
    Un-tick this box if you want to login each time you visit.