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I have been using a Nikon film camera until now and I want to change to a digital body. But I have, and love using, a perspective correction lens - PC Nikkor 35mm. Does anyone know whether I can buy a digital body which will be compatible with this lens?
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Most of my Nikkors are of the film era
ALL of them can be fully integrated into the modern digital Nikon professional range. (I use a D300)
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Just to add a little to Mike's very adequate reply, Where Nikon are concerned you can use pretty much all the lens they have ever made since forever to a digital Nikon body.
That applies to DX & FX sensored items as well....
There are a couple of odd ones, But they are as rare as hens teeth....
Enjoy your time on ePHOTOzine.....
Just don't try to put a non AI lens on a modern body.
As a reference to support the good advice above, "nikonians.org" have a very comprehensive compatibility chart which indicates any limitations in using specific lenses, as does Ken Rockwell on his site.
Better to get a body that accepts MF lenses with mechanical linkages. Some bodies will not stop the aperture down automatically, so you're stuck for aperture control. Some bodies only control electronically and you might be stuck either wide open or closed right down. IIRC the PC Nikkors have uncoupled apertures? So it won't matter with those, but not if you want to use other MF lenses.
I would suggest sticking to something like D200, D300, D700, D3, D2 and so on, and avoid the D3xxx, D5xxx series and D40s too. On the Nikon website there is a chart showing lens/body compatibilty.
I do not want to upset you - but - most recent Nikon DSLR's have a menu option to remove (or introduce) tilt effects.
As you set the aperture only by the aperture ring on the 35mm PC any reasonably DSLR supports stop down metering using it.
You will know from your film body experience you meter with no shift and "guess the rest" with film.
With digital you can check the exposure, including blown out highlights and where highlight and shadow fall on the histogram straight after taking the picture.
A histogram is the equivalent of a film H&D curve.
How can they replicate shift? And the "tilt effect" is just that....it's an effect. It doesn't really do tilt, ie it doesn't change the plane of focus, only introduce out of focus areas to make it look like it.
Some bodies will not meter or indeed work with the lens with a mechanical linkage. Hence why I say avoid some models. They do not meter at all, stop down.
That last bit should say "not even stop down".
I would take it into a shop and check before buying the body, I seem to remember somewhere where the older T/S lenses can catch the prism housing on some models.
Quote: I would take it into a shop and check before buying the body, I seem to remember somewhere where the older T/S lenses can catch the prism housing on some models.
I agree with going to a shop - even if as in North Yorks. that can involve a 120 mile or more round trip.
I am assuming the 35mm is not an early collectors item bare metal version.
If so the 35mm (and 28mm) is OK.
Even the more recent 24, 45 and 85mm version 2 PC-E lenses (with the addition of tilt) can be used with "overhanging prism bodies" with a slight upward vertical restriction in movement available.
Well I just sold my 35mm PC lens but it worked fine on my bodies (d2x and D3x) , it just wasn't sharp in the corners on the D3 so it had to go. It was actually ugh on my D3x w hen shifted left or right. That is why i didn't sell it here, it would have been unfair.
I have got the 85 mm PC micro nikkor now and that is flawless and fantastic.
Having said that I had sold my 400mm MF to a chap and he brought it back cause it had worked fine on his d200 when he tried it but it didn't work on some horrible new plastic body he bought. all I can remember is it was RED and the number was in the 1000s. After which I sold it to a friend who bought my d1x years ago and it worked fine, again.
And LEn, yes you can use non AI lenses on a d3 (x) and on a D2... I have got 3 of them, a 50 mm 1.4 of wonderful sharpness ( which will go to someone here as a gift), my 50mm 1.2 and an old 24 f 2.8. they all work fine. I had already adapted them ages ago for the F2a F3 etc. it only needs a dremel and a tiny drill and tap to move the little selector fork. I'll send you a photo if you want.
photo taken with a non AI lens on a D3x
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