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i would like to use fill in flash with my 70-300mm lens,my camera the canon eos 3 flash syn. is 200 now i understand that i must use at least a shutter speed of 300 so not to get any camera shake but is this the same principle when using flash or would the use of flash freeze the picture
darren
You only need to use 1/300 when using the 300mm end of your lens and you might find that your camera won't have a flash sync this speed anyway!
But yes the same principle applies - the flash will freeze anything that is able to 'light up' but anything else will blur if you have camera shake as usual if you use it out of doors.
Inside, the high sync of the flash if the room is not really well light should counter balance this and the shutter speed shouldn't matter so much but if shooting with a 300mm you will need a relatively strong flash for it to reach the subject, whether in or out of doors, anyway!
Best thing to do is try some different settings and check the results, writing down the exposure details as you go if not using digital - where it comes into its own for instant feedback.
Terry
Hi darren
You do have to be a little careful with using fill in flash as it is possible to record a 'double image'.
This occurs commonly where the flash 'freezes' movement and this image is recorded, but the exposure is long enough to also record a secondary image using the ambient light.
The use of flash on it's own will not prevent camera shake and certainly will not when used as a fill light as the amount of light being provided by the flash gun is going to be less than the ambient light.
You will not have to use the sync speed on your camera (i.e. I have been using my 1D-II at over 1/4000th this weekend with a 500EX flashgun) as you are utiklising fill flash. How you do this depends on the flashgun you are using but if you are not using something like the 550EX (I don't know about other Canon models), you will need to set the flashgun to deliver less than full power and perhaps also set it to manula mode. This way, you control the flash output (essential for fill-flash) and can use any shutter speed you wish on the camera.
With the 550EX life is pretty easy. You simply dial in how many stops below the ambient light level you want to use for fill (I opt for anything between -1 and -2 depending on the effect I am after) and set the gun to high speed mode.
It is obviously easier to check what is going on when using a dSLR so perhaps it is worth you running a neg film through your EOS 3 and doing some test shots with different setting on the gun and camera using various static subjects unedr different conditions (keeping a note of each frame).
Hope this helps a little
Barrie
Hi Michael (Spaceman)
I'm not too sure where very fast moving objects comes into the equation? What exactly do you mean
Barrie 
Ideally you would not use a lens as long as a 300mm for fill in flash because the flash won't stretch that far, as far as usiong fill in flash goes just use your flash on manual and rate it at about two stops under your camera (if your camera is on 200ASA set your flash to 50ASA) therefore "fooling" your flash into letting of less light. As for having to use a 300th of a second exposure with a 300mm lens, rubbish. 125th will be enough to stop movement unless you are throwing it around.
That's not so.
Most pro wildlife photographers swear by fill-in flash to ensure they get a catchlight in the eye and frequently do this in conjunction with lenses of 500mm and more (as I have done myself). It also helps to show texture in fur and feathers. In any event, many people utilise something called a Better Beamer to throw the flash a greater distance (it effectively focus the light using a lens)
It is unfortunate that you feel the you have to state that the need to use a shutter speed of 1/300th with a 300mm lens is rubbish. It is a generally accepted recommendation that people use a minimum of 1/focal length of the lens (in seconds) to prevent camera shake.
Obviously, this isn't always necessary and any shutter speed can give you sharp results depending upon your technique, personal physical attributes, whether your lens has IS and if you are using a tripod or not. The shutter speed is quoted not to stop movement but to stop camera shake and these two things are not the same.
One last point, if you want to fool your flash and have the camera set to 200asa and the flash to 50asa as you say, you will OVER EXPOSE by 2 stops. If you want to do it the way you suggest, you need to set the flash to 800asa
Barrie
Appologies about getting the asa settings back to front, easy mistake to make, as for shutter speeds and long focal lengths I still stand by using 125th as a good bench mark for eliminating camera shake (and yes I do know the difference between camera shake and camera movement, thanks.)
I assume you mean camera shake and subject movement?
There's no need to be a bit sniffy (your last sentence). I don't know if you realise the difference or not do I, after all - it was wrongly stated in your post!
Of course - emails/forum threads always come across wrong (I rub enough people up the wrong way myself without meaning to!).
Regarding long days - mine doesn't seem to be long enough. I'm in the process of editing a backlog of 12 weddings at the moment which is why I keep taking a break and dipping into ePz (trying to keep sane!)
Barrie
P.S.....I'm quite surprised about luke's remarks regarding camera shake. When using a 300mm lens handheld I have to use 1/500 to ensure a sharp image (I mean really sharp, not fairly sharp) that's why I had to buy a monopod. Maybe some people just have steadier hands than others.
As Barrie stated earlier it depends on a lot of factors including physical and technical abilities, I have hand held a 400mm F2.8 (nearly six kilos on it's own) at 1/60th sec and on a monopod down to 1/15sec, also know others that will get camera shake at 1/250sec on a 50mm.
Burgy
"also know others that will get camera shake at 1/250sec on a 50mm."
Too right - I know someone who get blurred pics whatever the shutter speed she uses. Even on wide angles.
That's why I have to smile, a bit, when we discuss the quality of one (expensive) lens against another (expensive) one. One tiny bit of camera shake and your pricey lens's quality goes out of the window.
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