Upload your photos, chat, win prizes and much more
Can't Access your Account?
New to ePHOTOzine? Join ePHOTOzine for free!
Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more for free!
Join ePHOTOzine for free and remove these adverts.
Luxury! In my day, the cameras weighed 600kilos and film cost £500 a roll and £600 to process.
Lemmy : I used to get real film for 2 shillings and 10 pence a roll and my Ensign Selfix cost £24-10-3d -- where did you get that EXPENSIVE Film from ? ( and I did my own processing for about 1 Old Penny a roll in home-made developer -- as I still do now ! )
Quote: used to get real film for 2 shillings and 10 pence a roll and my Ensign Selfix cost £24-10-3d
What that in today's money if you apply the RPI?
Here is a picture of Lemmy with his 600 kilo camera, no wonder the film was so expensive
hehe and i thought is was this one
Quote: Here is a picture of Lemmy with his 600 kilo camera, no wonder the film was so expensive
That was my Glossop Brothers Cameras Ltd, Oldham 'Eckyshot' which I used to use for paparazzi style candid street photography.
I had their 'Leviathon' model for studio and serious work where the GBCL Eckyshot's grain was too obvious due to the miniature 12x8 feet glass plate.
Maybe it's time for an upgrade to one of these.
Quote: Maybe it's time for an upgrade to one of these.
3.2 gigapixels? If I wanted a point and shoot I'd buy one. On a sensor like that, your image would look pixelated on a 10x8 (metre) print viewed at 30cm. When I were a lad, we did prints like that for the family album.
Missing the point a little, the zone system really doesn't work for chromogenic (C41) films as they don't push/pull processing in the same way as black and white (or E6 slide), therefore the idea of adjusting exposure vs dev time is not a linear exchange.
The old rule of thumb: push by 1 stop, increase dev time by 0.3, 2 stops by 0.7, 3 stops by 1.2 (therefore a 10 minute dev would equate to 13 mins, 17 mins or 22 mins for 1-, 2-, or 3-stop push).
When in doubt, clip test the first bit of the roll and adjust the dev for the rest to compensate.
We used to use Fuji 100 slide and push it to 400 ASA and adjust accordingly (it cleaned the whites up a treat). Pan F, FP4 and Tri-X used at native ASAs. Anything over 400ASA was exotic, and frankly gimmicky as the amount of golf-ball grain produced made the image grittier than Bruce Willis in a dirty vest, covered in tarmac.
Quote: as they don't push/pull processing in the same way as black and white
And not really necessary since you have a couple of stops leeway either way and can still get a usable result with adjustment in the printing.
Quote: In my day, the cameras weighed 600kilos and film cost £500 a roll
not any more ... ilford have raised their prices again ... £659.89 per roll now ... dratted decimalisation ... http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ortho-20x50-roll-2937-p.asp
Finally managed to get out a take some shots using TRI-X 400. I kept the iso at 400. Sent the film off to Ilford and they've come back as I would expect. So it was me being a wally and altering the exposure via the iso. Thanks very much for your help and advice on this. I've just bought a Nikon FE, so I'll be shooting alot more film. (Now I know what to do!)
I hope you enjoy every minute of your journey into film
ePHOTOzine, the web's friendliest photography community.
Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more.
You must be a member to leave a comment
Get the latest photography news straight from ePHOTOzine in your email every month and win prizes!
01/09/2014 - 30/09/2014
Check out ePHOTOzine's inspirational photo month calendar! Each day click on a window to unveil new photography tips, treats and techniques.
View September's Photo Month Calendar