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Google Earth Depth of Field overlay

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    LensYews
    6 Jan 2010 - 5:42 PM
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    Does anyone know if an application exists which can be used with Google earth, to calculate the depth of field (based on focal lenght, sensor size, distance to subject) and display it as an overlay in Google earth, ideally allowing several overlays for comparison?

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    6 Jan 2010 - 5:42 PM

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    Mike Otley
    Mike Otley (e2 Member)
    8
    17325 forum postsMike Otley vcard Norway8 Constructive Critique Points
    6 Jan 2010 - 5:52 PM
    0

    ??????????

    Why?

    I used to be an aerial photographer - air-to-ground.

    At 800ft (legal minimum altitude over built-up areas), using a 165mm f2.8 lens (wide open on Kodak 160ASA film) on a Pentax 6x7, shooting obliquely at anywhere between 80 and (at worst) 45degrees, Depth of Field was the last thing on my mind!!

    Transfer to a Satellite.

    Why is DoF an issue? There isn't any!

    Or have I misunderstood something here?

    Last Modified By Mike Otley at 6 Jan 2010 - 5:57 PM

    I don't quite understand your question Stephen. Are you asking for an application that calculates a DOF range from camera to focus point then overlayed on a map?

    LensYews
    6 Jan 2010 - 6:19 PM
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    I have difficulty in applying the depth of field tables in real life at sporting event, where I'm setting up in advance of the action and then have a few seconds to capture the action.

    After analysing why I wasn't getting as much of the image in focus as other photographers I found my estimated 60 feet, turned out to be 40ft when measured with the google earth ruler. If I'd I known that before hand I would have changed the settings I was using or my shooting position to get more of the action in focus as my depth of field was smaller than expected.

    So I was looking for a better way to prepare for an event, as I know what route is going to be used. A depth of field overlay would be a useful tool for me to go to the event knowing what my ideal settings/shooting position would be and adjusting for the light/conditions on the day.

    Mike Otley
    Mike Otley (e2 Member)
    8
    17325 forum postsMike Otley vcard Norway8 Constructive Critique Points
    6 Jan 2010 - 6:27 PM
    0

    Try this...

    This.

    ...and this.


    I have the Palm OS version of the last link on my Tungsten E PDA. VERY useful.

    HTH's...

    Helpful Post! This post was flagged as helpful
    LensYews
    6 Jan 2010 - 7:03 PM
    0

    Thanks Mike, its the third one of those links that've been using. I guess I need to find a way of taking it with me, I don't think my 2001 vintage 'smartphone' will load it and getting better at relating the figures to the scene in front of me.

    Mike Otley
    Mike Otley (e2 Member)
    8
    17325 forum postsMike Otley vcard Norway8 Constructive Critique Points
    6 Jan 2010 - 8:14 PM
    0

    Explore the site.

    Works like a dream on my 'E'. Could do worse than look for a Palm Tungsten E second-hand... Mine is a 2003 model.

    Even get a cheap Netbook perhaps and load the Windows version..???

    Last Modified By Mike Otley at 6 Jan 2010 - 8:16 PM
    LensYews
    12 Jan 2010 - 12:21 PM
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    Let me rephrase this question as a 'best way to focus question' now that I've explored the site and put together a table of my ideal settings. I've determined that for frozen action group shots I need a depth of field of approx 30 feet.

    My problem is that I have between 1 and 16 subjects travelling at between 26 and 30mph, either grouped together or spread out a little. My target area for the images is 11 meters wide by 6 meters deep (back of the fence to the landing area) and I'd like for group shots to have as much of that area in sharp focus as possible. The subjects are in the target area each for a max of 4-5 seconds (they cover 11 meters per second racing, but slow slightly for the jumps), perhaps 20 seconds for the entire field. My distance to the subject varies but is typically 20 meters, and would not be less than 8 meters (which I understand is about the maximum range of accurate autofocus tracking).

    So is the best way to try and capture this action to manually focus 2 meters from the front/centre of the target area, from around 20meters, focal distance of 100mm and looking to achieve a aperture of f8 and a shutter speed of 1/1000+ (45 degree angle of shooting to subject)? Or is there a better way of freezing the action on fast moving group shots?

    See this upload to the critique gallery for a photo which I feel worked, and versions of others that didn't using various focusing techniques.

    (My individual shots are okay as I can reset my settings and focusing accurately enough if the race unfolds that way, and my panning skills are improving, but these aren't the type of image my customers want).

    I looked at your shot, and for me the first thing i would do is put a wider lens on, 24-105 or the 17-40, you might need 400 asa so as to get the apature down to your required dof point but quality should be ok, I think your over complicating it for yourself.
    With a wider lens you might be able to use the "third in" focusing idea.
    Longer lenses do give a narrower dof.

    LensYews
    12 Jan 2010 - 4:53 PM
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    I tried a 17-40, but couldn't get in close enough with that. I've just added a version 5 using that Lens. I tend to start at ISO/ASA 400 and go up from there, trying not to go past 1000 unless the light is very poor.

    Perhaps I could use the 17-40 on a remote camera under the fence and at one or two courses, but with the majority I can't get much closer than about 10m from the action.


    Quote: I think your over complicating it for yourself.

    Certainly wouldn't be the first time. Just trying to work out how the other togs seem to get a much high proportion of in focus shots than me. Perhaps its not the photographer skills that need improving and its that the D300 & D3's are that much better than my 40d. But I suspect the 40d is capable of a lot more, its just working out what I don't know.

    lawbert
    lawbert (e2 Member)
    5
    1101 forum postslawbert vcard England10 Constructive Critique Points
    12 Jan 2010 - 5:03 PM
    0

    Very good advise from Steve_Crown about using a wider lense.
    If your going to use the maths to calculate your dof and prefocus on a point manually and wait for the horses to appear in what you perceive to be your focus point and then shoot at the 6 frames a second your 40d is capable of I think you will have mixed results.
    The 40d though doesnt have the best servo tracking system available so maybe a good idea would be to hire a 1d 3 or a 7d which a far more refined servo tracking focus system and see how that works combined with a wider lens.

    LensYews
    12 Jan 2010 - 5:10 PM
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    Looking at the 1d4 white paper, the AI servo performance has a new algorithm but the range remains the same:

    "As an example, with an EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM lens, the EOS-1D Mark IV can track a subject approaching at 50 kph/31 mph up to about 8 meters/26.2 feet away. This is the same specification as the EOS-1D Mark III."

    Does anyone know in practice how AI servo performs on a subject moving at the same speed, but twice as far away using a 17-40 or a 70-200 f2.8?

    lawbert
    lawbert (e2 Member)
    5
    1101 forum postslawbert vcard England10 Constructive Critique Points
    12 Jan 2010 - 5:31 PM
    0

    To be honest Stephen once you have used a pro spec camera in what you are trying to achieve then you will forget the maths and just enjoy your photography.

    LensYews
    12 Jan 2010 - 5:52 PM
    0

    Yes, I've been weighting up upgrading, and will soon have the funds to do so, and all the Canon options (1d2n, 1d3, 7d, and 1d4) have their pros and cons. Just been using the time from postponed events last weekend and this week to reflect on my current level of ability and see where I can improve. So it looks like stick with the individual shots for the moment, and revisit group shots when I have more capable equipment, but keep practicing in the meantime when I have the opportunity.

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