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Please firstly see on my portfolio page where there is a picture of my studio which is a tiny converted garage. I am having major problems with my lighting as my colour pictures are simply flat and too dark and even when I lighten them in PS its still not right as the background goes grey/pinky.
I have one over head long ceiling light and a soft box which I usually lighten the backdrop with. But its not working. Please advise where I can add other lights? and should I have them on the walls pointing to the background? Very confused now. Please help!
sara C
Ok, so it's flourescent tube - and as such not much use other than to give your customer enough light to find her seat...it will also have an effect upon the colour cast within your photo's.
First thing is to replace that tube with a set of cheap halogen lights - the likes of argos, Ikea etc sell them at silly prices. They'll look better, be brighter and not give you ambient light problems.
Next is to beg, steal or borrow another light if you want to do white background high key stuff...or use your softboxed light on your subject and use one or two cheap flash guns to punch out your background. On high key, remember to have your background lighting 1/2 to one stop brighter than your subject light....easiest way is to play around with anything you can grab as your subject - once you've got the settings that work, then they'll work all the time....and you could have your background light/s wall mounted to save space.
Presuming you're shooting digital, then the pinky backgrounds are down to you not telling the camera what is white - either before shooting or afterwards in software. Your cameras manual will tell you how to set a manual white balance for your particular camera.

If you have a large light source it will give you a flat result .. ie. the hardness of sunlight v. the softness of an overcast day. The hardness of early or late day lighting, from an angle v. the flat soft lighting of midday sun when the subject is well away from the camera.
If the light comes from a similar position as the camera you get a soft even result.
Light falls off at the inverse square of the distance between it and the subject, so a single light quickly creates dark shadows behind the subject. [Flash shots with flash at camera position].
Organise one light on the right of the camera and higher so that it creates a shadow of the nose. Have a second equally powerful light at x1.5 away from the subject on
the other side of the camera. That will give you a good contrast range for a colour shot.
Alternatively instead of having the second light further away from the subject you bring it up closer but to the side, using the spill from it to lighten the shadows on the subjects face and and most of it illuminates the background.
A couple of very basic approaches to get you started then you could read
this site
elseLarry Bolch or Chuck Gardner's
I don't like the idea of you using a flurescent tube for colour photography ..Check out Colour Temperature for a basic explanation.
[edit following Keith's suggestions]
If where you live is like where I live you will find lots of quite useful 'worklights and stands' at local hardware superstores. Advance on them is to organise 'barn doors' for them if you are a DIYer. Controlling where your light goes is one of the major steps in organising your studio.

I'm bookmarking too - sorry. There's quite a bit of good advice that I want to use soon, possibly this Saturday even! Thanks!
I'm confused - looking at the pic in your profile you have two strobes, a softbox and a brolly - are these not your key light and fill light respectively? Surely you don't need the ceiling light?
I too looked at your pic, and you have twolights, one diffused through a softbox and the other through a brolly, so it's all going eo be very even. Add to that the fact that all your walls are white, this will bounce lots of light back into the shadows for a very evenly lit subject (great for some subjects but could be flat for others. You also say that they are too dark, surely that's underexposure.
I'm just wondering if some of the pinky colour is due to light bouncing off the floor?, but this could be solved with a custom white balance if shooting on digital.
Tony
In the meantime you could use a reflector in place of your brolly, and use that strobe to light the background. Make sure you keep a few feet between subject and background to minimize spill.
Dave Newman's book is very useful to keep in the studio - it has a handy slide rule for showing light / camera settings for various apertures for traditional and high-key portraiture.
Steve.
I did some experimenting today and this was what I found... I moved the backdrop to the other end of the studio where the light is generally brighter from the window on the door and the overhead light. The changed the setting on the WB and did the white balance manually. Using 125sec F8 Flash on +1.7 This conbined seemed to be much better. I am going to do some prints sunday and see what the results are like but on the camera screen it looks tons better. I do also think I need to change the soft box and perhaps put it on the wall to maximise the space?
All advice given will be looked into and thank you again
Sara C
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