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Thanks. I'll have to investigate further. The notion of what the camera body was made of hadn't occurred to me, but it does make sense. I've seen on the Canon website the 20D IR variant which is designed for astronomical use, but having just purchased my 20D a couple of months ago, my bank manager might complain if I asked for a new one!
I've done quite a lot of work using Photoshop to generate faux IR effects in B&W and it's pretty effective, but am curious to see if I can get similar results in the camera.
I have to correct you here, the remarks about the metal camera body apply to IR film only - it's totally irrelevant for digital users.
Have a look here for the explanation of hot mirrors and how they block IR light in DSLR cameras.
I suspect that it's blocked quite strongly in the 20D, since Canon saw it fit to bring out the special IR version you mention. Which is why you and I need longer exposure times to get what we want than other digital or even film users.
But two minutes is a bit long. What ISO were you using, and how much light was there?
Conrad
The iso difference would have entailed you using double the length of exposure. Were you using the same aperture as your friend?
Ian
This was taken by myself using a Hoya R72 filter at F5.6 for 2 seconds on my 300D, presumably the 20D has a similar strength anti aliasing filter, so acceptable results should be achievable using similar settings.
When I took this shot I did not even meter the scene, I used 2 seconds @ F5.6 after much experimentation and helpful advice, from members here on EPZ, check out proberts portfolio for inspiration
Stu
derekm ... the thing to do is to point your TV remote at the camera and press the buttons on it ... If you can see anything you should be able to shoot IR but the brighter the signal from the remote the better the camera is.
If you are really keen you remove the camera's filter and replace it with an IR ...one Canadian Fine Art photog got Nikon Canada to do this to one of his D70's and he gets relatively 'normal' exposures with it.
There are IR filters and IR filters which let no visible light through and others which give you a reddish cast to your results. The latter must be letting in more light with shorter exposure times I guess. Since the Canadian has removed the bayer filter he can use a filter with a lower cut-off point to get the normal exposures ... mine are normally in the one or two seconds wide open [f/2.8]in bright conditions. [Nikon 5700][Pana FZ20 .. not a peep so no good at all :-( ]
Quote: the thing to do is to point your TV remote at the camera and press the buttons on it ... If you can see anything you should be able to shoot IR but the brighter the signal from the remote the better the camera is.
forgive me if I have missed something as I've only scanned over the thread, but surely this only works with an electronic viewfinder?, DSLR's have optical viewfinders, so you would need to take a pic & study the review screen.
Joe B
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