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The NIKON D7000 is a great camera, I have one myself. There are two well known issues you should look for.
1) A number (including mine) hurl grease onto the sensor. NIKON (unlike the NIKON D600) have NOT owned up to this. However it is a well established fact. This is not dust and not normal wear and tear and it is grease or greasy. It required me to invest in a wet cleaning kit DESIGNED FOR greasy spots. Even then it took three cleans to come up cleared. This happened twice quite rapidly but now has slowed down to normal dust as far as I can see.
2) My NIKON D7000 (and those of thousands of others) routinely burns out highlights in bright contrasty (sunny day - what are those?) conditions. This is not a big deal and there is a setting where you can set this and fix it so it ends up not an issue! Interestingly (or not) a test set of frames of a grey card centred around a standard shutter speed of 1/60 (correct exposure) shows a -5 stop and + 3 stop tolerance for the sensor. I therefore have set my NIKON D7000 up to -5/6 of a stop to prevent this issue and it works beautifully.
Both these things being said, its a great camera and a pleasure to use. Enjoy it, its a tool not a piece of jewellery.
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Thanks Ian, I have heard of the over-exposure 'problem' - although with such a simple fix, a very small problem. I'll keep my eye on the sensor too.
Thanks everyone else also. I have had Nikon camera's before and always thought they were blinding bits of kit, I've also got several expensive Nikor lenses, 80-200afs f2.8, Sigma17-50 f2.8, 10-24mm and a couple of primes so figured it was time for a body upgrade.
And I have exams(photography) coming up soon, so why not.
Does anyone ever use VR for macro shots? Is it any good?
P.S - 'Cameracat'(if that's your real name!) I did read some stuff about focusing issues on Amazon, but take the stuff on there with a pinch of salt and ordered anyway as I've heard its damn good.
P.P.S - Still not got the thing yetAmazon have told me tomorrow now.
Most (not all) macro shots are taken with the camera on a tripod so VR and the others (IS, OS, VC etc) are totally pointless as these impact negatively on tripod mount photographs.
If your camera doe have focus issues (and this appears to be more related to a particular lens rather than a camera so I am sceptical) then take some time to test each lens with a focus chart. See http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart. This however is common to all cameras and makes.
Does anyone ever use VR for macro shots? Is it any good?
I use VR for many macro shots when it is the appropriate option.
There seem to be no lenses with VR tripod mode so it should not used in doors on a tripod when there is no wind.
Outdoors when a tripod is not practicable, as with many insects, VR is great help.
By 1:1 magnification the effect of camera shake is increased by up till five shutter speeds compared to a safe hand held infinity shutter speed. This makes sharp macro hand held shots impracticable without flash, VR or limiting yourself to what you can obtain from a tripod.
VR gets you back 3 to 4 shutter speeds, a huge advantage shooting handheld at close distances.
It will not help with subject movement of a flower in a breeze - you still have to wait for the wind to ease to get a sharp shot.
With macro, I tend to find that subject movement is more of a problem than camera shake. I try to use a tripod whenever possible or to brace my arms in some way otherwise - but that, of course, does not help with subject movement. Nor, as has been said, does VR.
With the Nikkor 105mm f/2.8VR lens, the problem at anything approaching 1:1 can be quite marked and either a fast shutter speed (1/1000 or faster) or the use of a ring flash (as long as their is not much ambient light) can help. It is often a case of getting the optimum balance between shutter speed, aperture and ISO. The lens I mention starts to "go off" at smaller apertures than f/16 (some say f/11) but depth of field can be quite restricted close-up at wider than f/8. Fortunately, the more modern Nikons give decent results at ISO 1600 and, for some subjects, acceptable results up to ISO 6400.
As I said DO NOT use VR (or others) on a tripod. The stabilisation features are useful to have but advantages diminish as one gets to greater reproduction ratios. Four stops is somewhat of an exaggeration from the manufacturers. The most effective stabilisation I have encountered (and I have VR, VC, and OS) is the VC built into some Tamron lenses. This really is the business.
In ref to recent purchase of D7000 - I am having problems with massive back focus - I really thought it was exaggerated through online posts - I use in all manual apart from focus and can say yes it has a problem beyond AF-fine tune's ability to remedy - what a bloody shame! Even at f5.6 @ 50mm from about 4ft away is still not getting it right. Anyway I know several college lecturers who have been using Nikon for 20years or more so am getting a second opinion today in-case I'm missing something - which I kind of hope I am as I've always been so impressed with Nikon I find it hard to believe such a camera has these problems. Either way I'll be either sending to Nikon U.K for repair or just returning for another one. What would you do?
I would send it in for a service first of all and if that does not work then consider a replacement. Do you have the same issue with all lenses?
It may be that the size of the focus area means it is not focussing on where you think it is. Have you done the usual tests - I would say put a white stake in the lawn (to create a major contrast target) with nothing near it, then focus on the base of the stick and see where the grass is in focus. This should show you how far it is backfocusing. Because of the way the AF systems work by iteration, you could manually set focus at infinity and then take a shot with AF, then manually set at nearest focus and take a shot at AF, then after you have a shot on AF take another straight afterwards making sure you half-press the shutter first and see if it readjusts.
Same with all lenses yes - I've put it through several tests in both real world stuff and similar tests to which you suggest and it's WAY out! It's from Amazon so I have about 2 weeks left if I want a replacement - It's just not good enough really is it with such a world selling brand as Nikon. Having said this I will at least be trying to get another and hoping it's o.k as I think it could/will be a great camera when working correctly. Just so annoying - I'm also in the middle of my photography final assignment at college - my D3100 is working great though, so I'm using that for now.
Do you know how long roughly it would take for Nikon to service/repair?
This has worried me, I've had my D7000 since Dec 2010 and had notices odd focusing happenings but not being a professional or whizz, I'd not noticed back or front focusing. I bought mine from Amazon. I don't feel it's anything to do with where you bought it. But I'm now considering using the charts to test my camera. I've recently bought a Sigma 150-500, so want the best focusing.
Quote: With macro, I tend to find that subject movement is more of a problem than camera shake. (snipped)
With the Nikkor 105mm f/2.8VR lens, the problem at anything approaching 1:1 can be quite marked and either a fast shutter speed (1/1000 or faster)
Maybe it depends how you work. You are not going to get to critically sharp macro images with or without a tripod in a force 8 gale on a mountain side.
Often in a breeze or modest wind about every 30 seconds there is a lull and the subject is still enough for 1/60 hand held with VR.
Childrens seaside fishing nets can reduce wind speed by about 2 shutter speeds.
A paper clip attached to a clothes peg taped to a knitting needle pushed into soil can reduce flower movement by up to 3 shutter speeds.
Obviously a tripod helps if you can frame the subject using one, but when you cannot there are often several ways of reducing macro subject movement to photographically nil to get the full benefit of hand held VR.
Before you send the camera for repair get into the menu system and reset it back to the default factory settings as something may have been inadvertently changed.....
I have never found any problems with Nikon QC and would be surprised if the camera was at fault, although it's not impossible. The D7000 has a good name .
Try setting the camera on a tripod with spot focus set and photograph a static object using the timer... leaving the camera to work on its own. Then see what the outcome is.
Hi I have just upgraded my D5000 to a D7000 to go with my D700. Iíve been using the 7k for a couple of weeks now and I have no focus issue at all. What I have found is that the images look grainy as if they have noise. I have tried 18-105mm VR, 24-120mm VR f4, 70-300mm VR and 50mm 1.8 prime. I have tried it at f4.5, f8, f11 & f16 and still look grainy my ISO was 200-400, I have managed to get rid of the grainy pics using Lightroom. My D700 is crisp and very sharp. My 5k was sharp but limited to what AF lenses you could use. Had a look on the web and found other 7k users have the same problem, I still like the 7k. I would be very interested if any D7000 users have the same picture quality
Quote: In ref to recent purchase of D7000 - I am having problems with massive back focus - I really thought it was exaggerated through online posts - I use in all manual apart from focus and can say yes it has a problem beyond AF-fine tune's ability to remedy
You appear to be a UK resident.
If you bought any product from a UK retailer and a fault develops within 6 months you are legally entitled to your money back or an exchange (your choice) from the retailer.
Digressing during the period of the Thailand floods when there were no D7000's in the UK a friend bought the only one he could find on the web from Hong Kong. The camera did not record nil exposures when it arrived and had a significant focus issue. I was asked to check it and confirmed the fault. A strongly worded email to the Hong Kong seller resulted in an instant refund even though Hong Kong companies are not required to follow the UK/EEC legislation.
My guess is that particular D7000 was not unused when shipped and had some sort of "interesting" history.
It never ceases to amaze me how many seem oblivious to the legal right that if good money has been paid for a product and it is not good they are entitled to a promt refund or exchange.
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