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Do not know if this is the right place for the thread. Please move it if this not its proper place.
Came across a couple of macro pictures (greater than life size) of a bug. It had an impressive dof. Spoke to the author about it and he said that he used a stacking technique, ie took seven frames of the subject, each was focused at a different point without moving the camera. The resulting frames were stacked into one using a freeware software. Same principle as HDR I suppose, using focus points instead of apature. Has anyone used, or come across this as it has got me intregued and would like to try this at some point.
Thanks
Does anyone have any experience of using a focussing rail? Any tips / recommendations to share?
Actually we use a similar type of software in astrophotgraphy for stacking images called registax.. its freeware and though im not sure if it will work on your macro images its worth a go..
Just google registax for the download site.
ARI/Steve,
You need to be a little methodical about this if you want sharpness front to back but compromises can be made after a while with a little experience.
1) Determine the depth of field of your macro lens at 1:1 working distance for your aperture value of choice.
2) Lock your focus ring - I use a broad elastic band criss-crossing the ring and the lens body rather than tape etc.
3) Use the beefiest, steadiest, most bomb proof tripod/head combination you possess since things can get a little top heavy on the tripod when the plate is added to the mix.
4) Move the Micro Positioning Plate [Manfrotto 454 is the cheapest at £55] by a value less than your depth of field using the lightest touch possible to prevent disturbing your framing. Auto alignment is a feature of the software but obviously, the less movement, the better.
How much less depends upon how diligent you are, the total depth of the subject and your chosen aperture. It's a balancing act between lots of images with overlapping DOF against the possibility of you moving the camera etc out of alignment. I've seen a cracking picture using [I think] 44 images in the stack but most take nothing like this - usually 3-8 or so.
Always take care to move the plate in one direction only - the backlash on the screw can sometimes upset your spacing since we may be talking very small steps indeed.
Should you get serious and use something like the Canon 1-5:1 MPE 65mm lens then the coarseness in the screw threads of the manfrotto 454 becomes a serious handicap and you either build one yourself to very high standards or pay megabucks to buy a much finer controlled one compared to the Manfrotto.
HTH
I've finally got around to posting up a video on how to Focus Stack here.
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