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Hi I am an artist who makes scale models and and aim to take good quality macro photos of these model set ups. I intend to create prints that are at least A1 size. I use a canon G9 camera and have experimented with using the macro facility, but my first attempts were not terribly sharp. A friend has suggested that I buy a proper lighting set up or flash, but I am not sure which one. Has anyone used a G9 and could advise? I do not have a huge budget for this but could stretch to £200. Should I also buy a extra macro lens? I believe that their is a macro lens out there?
Just to give a little extra detail about what I am doing- I have spent 8 months making a house, garden and greenhouse. I am currently making a number of macro films using it. As part of the process I have taken some still and think that they are quite interesting in their own right. The house is about 12" in length and some of the plants are tiny. I want the photos to emulate the type of light that you get at twilight.I have not managed to post any of these videos on the web yet but to see similar type of work please visit Lori Nix's work.link
One major difference between my work and hers is that I want to take fragments of my model and never show the whole set up- hence the interest in macro.
Any tips gratefully recieved
The problem with macro photography is that your depth of field is going to be very narrow. The first thing I would try before considering spending a lot on lighting is trying the camera on a tripod (if you haven't already). This will give the camera' autofocus half a chance of locking on. I'm not familiar with the G9, but I suspect it has a 'macro mode' and therefore, whilst the macro lens may get you closer, it won't improve the sharpness of the shots.
If you post some examples of your existing attempts, you may get more advice.
I wouldn't bother with a flash or any other form of lighting set-up.
The G9 has a very good close focusing lens so that cuts out the need for buying a dedicated macro lens (if there's even such a thing for the G9)
All you need is a tripod, the camera isn't very heavy or substantial so in this instance you don't need anything too elaborate or expensive. Just be sure to securely mount the camera to the tripod and use the camera's self timer.
Any decent camera shop will have a fair selection of tripods that would be plenty good enough for a G9. Another option would be to have a browse at your local car boot sales or secondhand shop's. I'd be suprised if you couldn't find something perfectly adequate for under a tenner.
Justin
The G9 will focus close enough for what you want to do but only if you can get the camera into the position you want. Using an SLR with a 150mm macro lens would be one answer but obviously you do not have the budget for that.
Putting the camera on a tripod is essential but may mean you can't get the camera close enough to the subject. You can get mini pods of something like the gorilla pod may be more versatile for your needs.
Lighting can be produced with simple natural light set ups. Experiment is the only answer to get what you want.
Hi all,
Thanks for comments. Keep them coming its always good to hear of different approaches. I have been using a a tripod and even have a mini tripod but will keep trying.
Tessa
something flexible like this would be useful for manouevring your camera into position then holding it rigid. A remote shutter release would help too.
(I've lost a catalogue that I had that showed a kit of bits which was specifically designed for just such a purpose. If I can track it down I will put up a link)
No need to go out and spend money, your current kit should be up to it with a little forward planing.
Download and install this bit of free software combine zm
Then go here and watch Petes focus stacking tutorial
Quote: You will certainly need a focusing rail to get photostacking to work with combine ZM
All I ever use is a tripod and a lensbaby 3G, what makes you think there will be problems lining up shots.
hmm are you changing the point of focus by moving the focus wheel or by moving the whole camera? I was always lead to belive tha the latter method was the correct one since altering the focus will change the magnification factor of your shot (as well as move the point of focus) whilst if you just move the setup you will get the same magnification but a moved point of focus.
It might be that I am too used to insect work though - at least at those areas you can't get away handheld I find.
Quote: Hi all,
I made my own macrolight, I sent for 20 white LEDS from a Greman firm for £14-99, a battery box and switch £3. and 3 rechargable batteries. A piece of plastic sheet, and a Cokin 62 mm filter holder adaptor for £9. There is a foto on my portfolio.
robertt
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