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I have just purchased a set of NDGrad filters and after spending most of my working day searching for info on the web, I am totally confused.
So, what is the best way to meter using NDGrad filters. Some say meter for the f/g using difference in stops from sky reading. Some say just meter with filters in place.
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As I'm about to take the "Lee" plunge I'd be interested to know too.
Sorry to hijack!!
The following is my technique, evolved after going on a Northscape course. Like everything there is more than one way of doing it.
First I use the difference in stops between sky and land to indicate the strength of grad. Then I meter with the filter in place. Then I use the levels display to check/adjust as I want to meter to not blow the clouds out.
Oh and on a 300D it is best to use Manual mode as it switches to Centre Weight. Evaluative can be a pain in this type of photo I find.
how did we manage before histograms eh ?
Or as life is short use Aperture mode, slide a .9 grad in and take the shot........
I have never found a problem with Evaluative metering and Grads.
I also take the metering with the grad in place - seems to work well.
Well Bri I sort of gave up photography with film so I guess I did not.
For these types of photo I tend to start with a metering of about 1 stop under, and if I have the correct grad it is often not too far out.
Also squinting helps. If you squint and the land looks only slightly darker than the sky then no or 1 stop grad. If the land looks very dull 2 stops, if the land is black then 3 stops.
Quote: How did we manage before histograms eh ?
We used bracketing... and exposed a lot of film
My understanding, and the approach I use is to use the ND Grad to reduce the EV difference between bright & dark in order that the film's latitude can cope !
So I meter both areas within the frame and make a judgement on the ND's strength as appropriate.
However, I do not attempt to make the EV difference 0, usually about 1 / 2 stops is OK for me.
So I meter without the filter.
Some very useful tips. Thanks to you all.
Can't wait for the weekend, hopefully some good weather to put them to the test.
assuming you don't want anything to burn out (usually the sky) I put the grads fully over the spot on my camera's spot meter, point the spot and the brightest bit of the sky (that will be in shot) and take a reading in "M" mode
I keep the spot there and dial a shutter speed that takes the meter to about +1 2/3 on the meter scale.
Then I just frame the shot and put the grad on the horizon.
dead easy and works for me
but there will be 1000 other ways to do it, inlcuding the one where you stand on your left foot and sing "Kum-By-Ya" backwards
pick up camera. set meter to spot or centre weighted. point it at something that is a mid-ish tone,,,grass, grey stone, back of hand etc and note the reading. now point it at a mid section of the sky...not the brightest part as this will result in you over-gradding...take a note of the reading.
The difference between the two in whole stops is the amount of grad that you will need to use.
It doesn't get any more technical than that at first. Once you've got your technique nailed down you can expand your metering skills but the above will serve you.
but before you get bogged down in long winded methods, remember that you have, or most people have, three grads. One.Two. Three. For the most part you'll be using a two on it's own, a three on it's own or a three with an additional one.
Now deciding which one to use isn't all that difficult.
Quote: Pick up camera. set meter to spot or centre weighted.
By far the most simplest and straightforward explanation to the subject in hand
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