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Mounting Tape / Glue advice

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    pulsar69
    pulsar69  91611 forum posts United Kingdom6 Constructive Critique Points
    2 Aug 2013 - 6:38 PM

    Taking a more economical approach to selling prints instead of using the normal lab we use to try and make it more affordable and sell more of our landscape work would like to know what people recommend for mounting , we have purchased the mounts and backing cards so looking for advice on glue tape etc best value products , thank you

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    JJGEE
    JJGEE  96104 forum posts England18 Constructive Critique Points
    2 Aug 2013 - 6:50 PM

    Last year, when preparing prints for an exhibition I bought all my tape from this company

    Framers Equipment

    I cannot recall exactly which products I bought except I did buy the Mounting Corners.

    I think it is probably best that, if interested, you read through all the descriptions of the products to see if any are suitable for for needs.

    IanBurton
    IanBurton  460 forum posts United Kingdom7 Constructive Critique Points
    2 Aug 2013 - 7:03 PM

    I prefer to mount my images using the 'T' hinge method. I create the hinges using pH neutral tape which is strong enough to hold the image in position as well as allowing for repositioning. I will then stick the mount to the back board using a very strong double sides adhesive tape, I have tried cheap tape but it does not hold well. So far none of my images have suffered from rippling so it works very well. Buying standard sized mounts in bulk is very economical, for these I use Cotswold, for one off special sizes I use local framer from Guisborough market.

    Hope this helps

    Ian.

    Gundog
    Gundog  1624 forum posts Scotland
    2 Aug 2013 - 7:04 PM

    Have a look at the Cotswold Mounts website. They sell just about everything you will need and are very happy to give advice.

    scottishphototours

    3M Spray Mount.......... here

    dcash29
    dcash29  81870 forum posts England
    2 Aug 2013 - 9:25 PM

    Use double sided tape to stick the picture and the mount

    Eastlands
    Eastlands e2 Member 3646 forum postsEastlands vcard Northern Ireland3 Constructive Critique Points
    2 Aug 2013 - 9:31 PM

    Spray Mount can be messy, I always use a good acid free tape from an Arts Supplier.

    pulsar69
    pulsar69  91611 forum posts United Kingdom6 Constructive Critique Points
    2 Aug 2013 - 9:40 PM

    thank you for all the info just looking at the cotswold site now , theres no explanation to this hinge technique so will need to dig further , i already have some brown mounting tape but its only single sided. Do you guys use the corner stickers for the mount to board and tape for the print to board ? I am presuming the print needs to be mounted so that is effectively under tension to stop it rippling ?

    thank you
    Andrew

    JJGEE
    JJGEE  96104 forum posts England18 Constructive Critique Points
    2 Aug 2013 - 10:40 PM

    I attach the top of the print to the backing board with a combination of double / single sided tape.

    I then support the bottom two corners of the print with the corner mounts followed by attaching the mount to the backing board.

    That I found was the tricky bit... lining everything up and getting it square ! !

    You may be able to re-adjust if you have not pressed the mount down too hard on the tape, which is on the backing board or else you are stuck, so to speak, and have to start all over again Sad

    Gundog
    Gundog  1624 forum posts Scotland
    3 Aug 2013 - 9:41 AM

    I don't fix the print to the backing board at all. I simply use tape to attach the print to the mount and then use double-sided tape to fix the mount to the backing board.

    However, I do it that way as I only mount prints for competition purposes and want to be able to easily re-use the mounts and boards from my "failures". If I was mounting for sale, I'd probably employ a more permanent method.

    IanBurton
    IanBurton  460 forum posts United Kingdom7 Constructive Critique Points
    5 Aug 2013 - 11:21 AM

    Click T-Hinge method to see instructions. It's handy to use a paperweight to hold the print in position until hinged and stuck in position on the back board (I put the weight in a sock so it doesn't scratch the print). Never put print under tension nor tape along full length of sides, paper likes to breath so it will expand and contract, under tension it will ripple eventually. Once you stick the backboard to the mount the print will be held firmly in place.

    pulsar69
    pulsar69  91611 forum posts United Kingdom6 Constructive Critique Points
    5 Aug 2013 - 12:20 PM

    Thanks all have got the knack of the t-hinge and ordered some double sided tape to seal it down and seems to be fine and not too tricky and most of all cheap ! which is the point when trying to sell mounted prints need to keep them reasonably priced - have worked out with all the materials ( mounts bags printing tape labels etc ) in can do them for under 4 each cost so it now remains to be seen how much they can sell for !!

    thewilliam
    5 Aug 2013 - 4:33 PM

    We generally mount the pic to the backing board using double-sided film and a Jet Mounter. We could use the Hotpress and it would be more "archival" but it takes a lot longer. This makes sure the print stays flat.

    The bevel-cut mat is then attached using double-sided tape.

    brian1208
    brian1208 e2 Member 109966 forum postsbrian1208 vcard United Kingdom12 Constructive Critique Points
    5 Aug 2013 - 5:03 PM

    I use the hinge method when working with separate back-board and mount, with the Cotswold Slip-in mounts I'm using archival tape to locate the print against the back-board in the mount, spaced as if for Hinge-mount.

    For my larger prints my friend who runs a print and frame shop and does my biggies for me uses a commercial "sticky-board" with a hand roller to activate the adhesive and ensure a close bond without bubbles.

    I don't know which brand she uses (gets it from Lion) but its much better than the stuff you can buy from your local art-store and has never let me down yet (and my prints get carted about a fair bit under a range of different environmental conditions (as far as I know this only works with gloss and satin photo-papers so I wouldn't recommend this method for fine-art papers)

    pulsar69
    pulsar69  91611 forum posts United Kingdom6 Constructive Critique Points
    5 Aug 2013 - 5:14 PM

    thanks for the info , the prints are 10x8 and A4 type sizes at the moment once i get into the bigger stuff will take another look as no doubt the more weight the better the solution will need to be.

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