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As we can now upload photos to the gallery, here's a thread where we can upload our off camera flash shots and describe how we acheieved them
Put info like....
Number of flashes
Flash modifiers used (e.g. brolly, beauty dish)
Thinking behind the above settings/positions
Reason for shot.
All that good stuff
Apologies to those who are not E2 - you can participate, but not upload photos
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the idea was to take Trish, who has this goth/alternative look to somewhere really out of context for that look - so what better than a frosty moor windfarm
really strong winter sunshine on this one - that's what's lighitng the left of her, it's pretty warm light too of course.
With the sun doing 1/2 the job, I just used one strobe on a stand at 90 degrees off to the right to make her ping from the background a little - you could argue that the kicker lighting is a lot whiter than the sun I guess... but didn't have any gels for the flash on this shoot.
Light on the turbines was from the sun of course!
The Shot (link as I am not at e2 member currently)
Number of flashes: 1 SB-600 in a EZYBOX
Flash positions: 45 degree from model, camera right, angled 45 degrees down
Flash modifiers used (e.g. brolly, beauty dish)
ISO/Shutter/Aperture: iso: 100 1/250th @ f4
Thinking behind the above settings/positions:
Classic one light studio set -up
1/250th kills all ambient, so only the flash lights the shot
There is a limit to the power an SB-600 can push out, so f/4 was a suitable aperture as well as allowing a shallow depth of field, whilst also getting a better chance of getting the eyes sharp.
Used single point auto-focus, with a focus/recompose technique.
Auto focus was occasionally struggling in the darkened room, so may try manual focus next time
Reason for shot:
Create a studio like portrait in the lounge
Just a day out at the Yorkshire Scupture Park - no other reason. Chris had an old looking leather jacket and one of those scarf things on, made for a bit of a WW2 RAF look.
Stood him against a wall with some trees behind him and the sun off at about 2 oclock
Did a few shots with the trees in, but wasn't working that well.
Flash here was at abot 7 o'clock - one strobe on a stand, no light modifiers. Can't remember the shutter/aperture, but I think the aperutre was around F5.6 or so looking at the blurred clouds. Taken with 70-200 at the long end.
If there is strong sun, I usually put the sunject either in front of it, or have it lighting their side a bit
First meeting with this model, had a bit of a shot at yorkshire sculptiure park first, but not that inspired.
She'd seen some of me field work on Model Mayhem, so we went looking for some wheat on Emley Moor to get that feel.
Underexposed by about 1 stop for the background, was sunset, had a beauty dish high up directly where Nadia is looking, almost "rembrandt" lighting, then a little strobe at about 3 oclock to light her arm and some of the wheat husks
note that the field had been mown, there was just a bit ot wheat at the edges, I was led on my back looking up with a 17-40 through the little bit of wheat tehre was to give the illusion of a full field...
very harsh sunlight camera right
under exposed background 2 & 1/2 stops
speedight with 24" softbox, camera left (just out of shot) set to +2 on ettl
speedlight bare, slightly to camera left, low down, set to +1/2 on ettl
both controlled with pocket wizards,
I did pull the background back about a stop as it just looked like a dusk image, and I think I could of died the speedlights down a bit, but you know how hard it is to see the screen in bright sunlight
edit to add
I wanted a more dramatic feel to the shot, that's why I underexposed the background, but the clear blew Sky's worked against me, and it just looked like a dull image, Ade has done in his examples what I was trying to achieve
I`ve been developing a highly portable, very versatile lighting system for use in all weather, even heavy rain, works a dream.
Light weight as well, its even possible to hold one flash set up and use a camera fitted with a lensbaby in the other ( provided its a 3G or composer )
Been busy so these are not recent pics.
As for set ups, from memory 2 fl50r`s fitted to reflectors (brollies) fired via wireless and controlled from E3.
One brollie at ground level, angled, the other brollie and flash held in free hand.
It does help being a little ambidextrous and being able to focus a 3g or composer using the torso ie twisting and tilting to and thro.
This one was taken a couple of years ago on a model assignment at the beach in Aldeburgh. It's Maggi Hambing's scallop shell memorial. I had a play around with several flashguns and gels. Here's the result of three small auto slave guns firing at the base of the shell. I've left them in so you can see where they were positioned. The shot was underexposed with an exposure of 1/25sec at f/5.6 and ISO200. The flashes were set to f/5.6 so they gave correct exposure with their various colours. The shell was lit with an on-camera Vivitar 283, also at f/5.6
Taken on a Canon EOS1D MkIII and 24-105mm set at 24mm.
Would have been nice to have seen the model Pete
The 283`s where a good reliable unit in there day, still are.
Again, this is pretty old, was assumed by many that Olympus wireless flash worked in line of site only. Nothing fancy, mike stood behind me to my left and simply pointed the flash where I wanted it, at the time I was just testing out the possibilities and to date the units have never let me down, even in bright sunshine.
original upload here
Quote: Would have been nice to have seen the model Pete
I didn't use the small flashes with the model. Thye were taken the night before while checking out the location, I decided not to use them on the model shoot. I had too much to think about - the main purpose for me was to test a ringflash...reviewed back then on the site.
I was also playing around with the Vivitar 283 on a stand, fired from the left to simulate a sunlight style hard lighting.
Here's an example:
Ring flash, I was looking at a DIY ringflash unit just the other night. Was quite clever as it delivered the light from the pop up flash of a dslr via fibre optic cable forming a ring around the lens.
You will certainly get a light loss from this. As you had a low power flash to start, this is a non starter.
Not really, ideal for macro
Here's one I took recently at Hammerfest heavy metal festival held at Pontins in Prestatyn.
It was lit by one SB-800 placed on the floor by the monitor speaker, triggered using CLS.
Black Metal bands such as this are almost always backlit, so I wanted to add some harsh directional light at the front, whilst keeping the power of the lights behind. I alos leant over the flash as it faired to deliberately get a bit of flare in the image.
This was a test shoot for this location in Leeds - not much graffiti in the area these days, so was quite happy to find this wall.
The aim is to get some TFCD models down here so wanted to get some idea of the lighting needed.
there's very little street lighting, so didn't need any CTO gels.
So there are 3 strobes here - one at 10 o'clock leaning against the wall, creating all the light from the left.
The main light was high and disant at about 4-oclock, almost opposite the first light - gives that strange "sin city" look.
The last light was a 580 EX 2 a long way off to the right, that just lit the wall.
Was a bugger to focus in the dark...
used the 17-40 so I could be reasonably close when he started jumping
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