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Off Camera Flash Photography Thread

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ade_mcfade
ade_mcfade  1014720 forum posts England216 Constructive Critique Points
20 Apr 2010 - 6:41 PM

Somtimes its good to show ones which may not have worked perfectly... though I quite like the shot anyway

this was in a little park near my house, there was an incredibly strong sunset going on which is what's lighting the left of the shot.

The idea was to fill the right in with a brolly, which we did, but the white balance is a bit different really... and the strobe is quite a bit harder

Just one brolly, quite high up lighting his face at about 2 o-clock

I reckon it'd would have been a bit better at about 5 ockock with a CTO gel on, but you live and learn...

any ideas chaps?

-mg-0722.jpg

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miptog
miptog  83532 forum posts United Kingdom61 Constructive Critique Points
20 Apr 2010 - 6:54 PM


Quote: any ideas chaps?

How about:

Using a gold reflector with the ambient light rather than flash

or

Position the model so that he is better light by the natural light

steve_kershaw
20 Apr 2010 - 7:15 PM

I think there would be some serious squinting going on with a gold reflector Smile

Quote: I reckon it'd would have been a bit better at about 5 ockock with a CTO gel on

or an additional light in this position with the first dialed down another stop,

I know its a building and we don't like buildings here Sad

but this was a bas***d to light, and this is an off camera lighting threadTongue

it was A very bright full sun mid day, with the sun coming straight into the room, there where no other light source in the room and was very dark,
5 speedlight didn't touch it, in the end I went home for 2 600w strobes for the main light and some of the speedlights for fill
1-orig-100.jpg

ade_mcfade
ade_mcfade  1014720 forum posts England216 Constructive Critique Points
20 Apr 2010 - 11:55 PM

.......I'd have gone HDR I reckon Steve, but the result here is very impressive.

strobes to the rescue!

steve_kershaw
21 Apr 2010 - 7:41 AM


Quote: .......I'd have gone HDR I reckon Steve

I have put a lot of effort trying to get hdr to work for this, my first attempts where awful, after a lot of trial and error I have refined it to know its limits,
conclusion is
hdr will work well when there is only 1 and a half stops difference, any more that that and you start a trade off between a blown exterior or a dirty interior
on a normal landscape shot your -2ev is in some small shadow area not a key part of the shot, so you don't notice it being dirty, also above +2 stops and you start to get a lot of chromatic aberration showing, especially between the high contrast areas like the sky and trees,
a combination of hdr for the interior and masking the windows in from correctly exposed shot will work better than a straight hdr,
saying all that strobes can make a worse job if you are not careful, try placing enough speelights to give you an even fill without getting reflections in the windows, or obvious hot spots from the strobesSmile


this was an early attempt at hdr (ignore the perspective Tongue)
the dirty walls are awful, I can now get this much better in hdr but it wil still be there

alan.jpg

this is a good hdr, apart from the over saturation but that's another story
pal-1.jpg

and this is a good trade off using hdr, good internal and controlling the blown windows to an extent
pal-2.jpg

Last Modified By steve_kershaw at 21 Apr 2010 - 7:44 AM
ade_mcfade
ade_mcfade  1014720 forum posts England216 Constructive Critique Points
21 Apr 2010 - 11:26 AM

nice on Steve - good explanation and examples there Smile

Must admit, I had the same issues with early HDR's, I now use "Exposure Fusion" for that more realistic look - came in with Photomatix 3.2 I think.

I've not done any interiors like these for ages, so may have to give it a go in my kitchen some time.

I'd imagine with speedlite strobes, you may struggle to get enough spread on the light, producing hot spots around the place?

Do you use giant softboxes and proper strobes to get that nice, smooth light?

Firebaby
Firebaby  101204 forum posts Faroe Islands
21 Apr 2010 - 1:31 PM

Bookmarking

steve_kershaw
21 Apr 2010 - 1:41 PM


Quote: Do you use giant softboxes and proper strobes to get that nice, smooth light?

I bought a big westcot for the job, but to be honest its impractical to use, I have some lightspheres that are my main diffusers, second will be a shoot through or I will try to bounce it off a wall,
the lightspheres give a surprisingly soft light considering they are a small diffuser, and cloning out a reflection is much easier than a 4` softbox or 3` brollyWink


ps
I like the feturee of adding photos, for me it gives these threads much more depth

Last Modified By steve_kershaw at 21 Apr 2010 - 1:42 PM
steve_kershaw
21 Apr 2010 - 8:09 PM

why do threads like these run there course in a few days?
I am amazed at the quantity of photographers here who don't contribute, I would of thought this could run for weeks if not months

its a shame Sad

Helpful Post! This post was flagged as helpful
miptog
miptog  83532 forum posts United Kingdom61 Constructive Critique Points
21 Apr 2010 - 8:46 PM


Quote: Why do threads like these run there course in a few days?
I am amazed at the quantity of photographers here who don't contribute, I would of thought this could run for weeks if not months

its a shame Sad

Ditto

whipspeed
whipspeed e2 Member 94039 forum postswhipspeed vcard United Kingdom22 Constructive Critique Points
21 Apr 2010 - 9:27 PM

I've got a friend coming down for a shoot on Friday and intend to use my flashes & recievers in anger for the first time. I'm shooting her in and round a swimming pool. Some natural light and some halogen spots, but dark brick walls. I want to try to get her floating in the water etc. So I will post the results from my first attempt next week.
Any tips would be great. We are then off to an abandoned church.

steve_kershaw
21 Apr 2010 - 9:40 PM

in an Indore swimming pool I would take your camera off auto white balance, and do a manual wb or pick a close preset, then if you can gel your speedlights with a cto gel,
those big halogen spots will give you a huge orange cast that even a raw image will struggle to recover from

BigRick
BigRick  82085 forum posts United Kingdom3 Constructive Critique Points
21 Apr 2010 - 9:52 PM


Quote: I've got a friend coming down for a shoot on Friday and intend to use my flashes & recievers in anger for the first time. I'm shooting her in and round a swimming pool. Some natural light and some halogen spots, but dark brick walls. I want to try to get her floating in the water etc. So I will post the results from my first attempt next week.
Any tips would be great. We are then off to an abandoned church.

i would have thought a polariser would be the job for this too Smile

whipspeed
whipspeed e2 Member 94039 forum postswhipspeed vcard United Kingdom22 Constructive Critique Points
22 Apr 2010 - 9:20 AM

Thanks for the input, I've got a grey card for the white balance, so will make sure to use it. If the weather is bright enough, I'll try with the halogen lights on and off as their are windows at one end of the building. I don't have any gels at the moment, but will look into getting some, so for a complete novice, can you tell me what a cto gel is?
Thanks for the polariser tip as well, I'll make sure it's in the bag.
I will put up the photographs on here next week, so I would appreciate any critique you can offer.

steve_kershaw
22 Apr 2010 - 9:34 AM


Quote: what a cto gel

controle orange, (Converts 5500 Flash to 3200 Tungsten)

there are kits availavle on ebay

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