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Quote: I haven't tried legacy lenses on the OM-D, but I did use many of them on the PM1, and where they haven't been designed to correct problems inherent in digital photography, CA becomes a big problem. I found that even cheap M4/3 lenses outperformed originally expensive film lenses. It isn't that the optics are not top quality, they're designed for a different system, and it shows
Denny where are your facts 
CA is just as much a problem for modern lenses as it is for old, its just with modern lenses a lot of the software corrects for this and hides it.
In many cases the older lenses come out on top in this department, sure some older lenses will be bad but a lot can and will hold there own.
Quote: Here's a pic of my OMD with some lenses I've used for night shots:
Joshwa, have you had a chance to compare the image quality of the 50 1.4 against the new 45 ? (My son's got one I might be able to persuade him to part with, but I'm not sure if it's worth buying the adaptor).
Unfortunately not, but perhaps I'll have to get something like the 45mm for Christmas
Has anyone tried using a Prolinca 40203 universal Wireless remote flash trigger with the EM-5 and if so, can you get it to work?
I tried mine over the week-end, the Test button fires the flash-heads OK and I know that the camera hot-shoe is working OK because it was faultless with a borrowed RF wireless trigger, but it don't work with my EM-5 
Help please
Never used one Brian, but if I understand you correctly, that it works except when fitted to the EM-5 hotshoe I would assume that it has to be an issue of the IR beam not being detected because of the relative positions of trigger and flash or more likely, incompatible voltage levels and the Olympus not producing a high enough voltage to trigger the sender. No idea what is required or delivered though.
Quote: Is it for inside or outside use Brian? The spec says it can be swamped by sunlight when used outside.
Probably teaching Grandma to suck eggs here aren't I. 
Umm, hello Grandson! 
Yes, its in darkened studio conditions I'm trying to use it, so it should work fine and indeed, as I said, pressing the test button when its on the hot-shoe fires the flash-heads (studio type not hot-shoe flash guns) fine.
I think you may be on to something with your idea about voltage though but have no idea how to check this. Maybe time to contact Olympus
It gets stranger, I just checked and when I press the test button I see the IR flash from the trigger, likewise when its on the EM-5 and I press the shutter button, so the voltage is obviously enough to activate the trigger.
Hmm - with canon I was able to use 1/160th sec to trigger studio heads with the Prolinca and with the EM-5 studio flash can work up to 1/200th with the RF wireless trigger on but I wonder if for some reason I need a lower flash sync speed with this combo?
Its club studio night tonight (shooting then eating food as our end of year bash 
) - I'll take it along and have another play to see if I can crack this
Bit of info here: http://dpanswers.com/content/genrc_flash_measuretv.php
including:
Olympus
The only verified offical notices about from Olympus I am aware of are the following note about in the EVOLT E-410 FAQ (Q #49):
Thyristor-type flash units can be used with the EVOLT E-410's Manual shooting mode as long as the sync voltage does not exceed 6 VDC. Third-party TTL flash units will not have TTL capability because the contact pins in the camera hot shoe probably won’t align with the contacts on the flash. In addition, the TTL communication with the EVOLT E-410 may damage the camera circuitry or corrupt the camera firmware.
And the following paragraph in the the Olympus Pen E-P3 manual (p. 60):
Using obsolete flash units that apply currents of more than about 24 V to the camera hot shoe X-contact will damage the camera.
However, user iROK reports in a forum message on FourThirdsPhoto.com that he has received the following information in an email from Olympus (Japan):
The E-system is designed to satisfy the ISO10330 (trigger voltage for X contact is 24V or lower). If the flash you use is manufactured under this standards, there will be no problem. The E-1 and E-300 are [designed to] withstand 500V or lower, but it is recommendable to keep 250V as a maximum level.
Interesting to see the comment in para 4 referring to 'currents of about 24v' from an Olympus manual.
Don't know if it helps.
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