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Hi, I have recently bought some LEE filters and holders of course and was just wondering what the pro or cons to using the Lee square polariser as I have the system, obviously quicker to put in place with the slot and the cost of the adaptor ring and a 105mm round filter but anything else for or against the square filter polariser?
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Is it a linear polariser? If it is your camera's light meter may not function correctly.
Pro`s, they make good beer mats.
Con`s, they don`t skim across water too well.
The big con is that you have to rotate the holder to get the best polarisation effect, then it isn't likely to be straight enough to use a grad at the same time. If you're not intending to use grads, this may not be an issue.
Having started in the last couple of years getting more into close up / macro type shots I have found it a little awkward with a macro lens, so much so I have bought a B&W polariser that screws into the lens filter thread.
For landscapes / general views etc. the slot in square Lee polariser is, I believe, better as you can take it "on & "off easier than the screw in type.
Didn't know the Lee polariser is actually square?
Took a look at Lee website - the square polariser is for studio use, where no grads are needed. Otherwise they recommend the adaptor ring and their round polariser. My Cokin filter set has a round slot-in polariser with a toothed edge so it can be easily rotated. I know Lee are considered to be better quality than Cokin, just wondering if anyone else makes a round one that would fit your Lee system?
Hi, Sorry about the late reply to this.
I ended up buying the 105mm adapt ring and a Hoya 105mm Pol to fit on the front of the Lee system.
If that works for you, Russ, then there is no problem.
Like BigAl, I use a Cokin CPL polariser which is really a round one that slots into the filter holder and can be rotated without rotating the entire holder.
But I rarely use the polariser in conjunction with other filters (such as ND grads) as they just don't seem to work well together.
So, if I definitely need a polarising filter, I tend to use a circular screw-in one to suit whatever lens I am using (having, of course, removed any "protection" UV or skylight filter that may have been in place).
To tell you the truth, having once used a polarising filter quite extensively, I now rarely use one. For landscape photography, most of the benefits of a polariser can be better achieved in Lightroom (or Photoshop). Really the only time I use a CPL now is if I have a clear need to remove reflections from non-metallic surfaces. That is probably the only polariser effect that cannot be better done in post-exposure processing.
For landscapes I find that the requisite strength and type of ND grad, to balance the exposure between sky and foreground is, by far, the most important filtration effect. Normally I use hard grads for seascapes and soft grads for inland landscapes.
Playing around with filters is just another of those "fun" aspects of photography and, of course, one of the huge benefits of digital is that there is no cost of film or processing to take hundreds of exposures to try it all out (and you see the results instantly).
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