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Hi
When I try to mount 20x16" prints (I use Photobox) I can never seem to get the prints to lay absolutely flat. When in a frame I will always notice a ripple effect when the light shines on it from certain angles.
My process for mounting is to hinge a backboard to the mount, then place the photo on the back of the mount and using acid free strong tape stick the print to the mount along each side.
I am wondering if the ripple effect is caused by Photobox rolling up the prints for postage, or whether its the weight of the print itself. I do lay heavy books on the prints for 24 hours before mounting but this doesnt stop the ripple effect.
The only solution I can think of is to completely stick the whole surface of the back of the print to the backboard, so would dry mounting be my best option? Or has anybody had any luck with using spray on adhesive? The spray on method sounds more ideal as I would prefer an option that I can do at home rather than take to a professional and have to pay more.
Any advise would be most appreciated
Thanks in advance
Daniel
There's a couple of points to consider here. One is that heavier papers are more likely to be self-supporting and to hang true. The other is that, in my experience at least, ink jet papers in particular appear to be prone to absorbing damp from the air and thus expanding and rippling within the frame. It seems to make a difference if the back is sealed with gum tape. It's by no means airtight but it seems to help. I've also taken to using repositional spraymount and that also helps with larger compositions
Quote: then place the photo on the back of the mount and using acid free strong tape stick the print to the mount along each side.
That's probably what's causing the problem. The print needs to expand and contract, which it can't do with all edges taped. Just tape the top edge only, as mentioned above.
I've mounted several A3+ prints this way and have never had a problem with the prints not lying flat when hinge mounting.
As has been said, a lot depends on the thickness and nature of the paper. I find that large prints made on thinner photo-paper are seriously prone to buckling, even when properly hinge mounted from the top. I've had this happen to me and seen it in too many exhibitions of other people work to believe it is anything other than typical of this type of paper.
My printer who produces my framed 30"x20" type images will always cold-bond this type of paper to a "sticky board".
So far she / I have had no problems (she does it commercially so I guess she must be convinced with her product) but when I have used some of the "Sticky Boards" available through the retail market I have run into serious problems with long-term bubbling. This is a real pain, particularly when it happens to a print in an exhibition!
I'm waiting to get hold of her product to try it myself.
My suggestion would be that if you need to make large prints, go for a heavy-weight paper stock with proven dimensional stability.
(I've tried spray mounting adhesives and the 3M double sided adhesive papers as well, but neither of these have worked satisfactorily for me with large prints)
Further to my last post, i have been in contact with a local printing company who have offered me this:
"For mounting we use a cold roller mount system where we apply a mount film to the back of your print and then mount this down onto the required board"
They are charging me £5 for each print.
Has anybody used cold mounting before?
I've used the self adhesive Daler mountboard method . I mounted an A3 print onto it. I put a sheet of plain inkjet paper over the top and used a cheap rubber roller to roll it.
That was about 6 years ago and the print is still hanging on the wall as good as new. Not the slightest hint of a ripple.
The price they're charging sounds quite reasonable, you would probably pay that, or close to it, for a sheet of self-adhesive mountboard.
That's what I use / have used for me with lightweight papers, it works well - most of the time.
Be aware that you will see the texture of the adhesive backing using this method, particularly with gloss papers.
Justin, its Daler board that I had trouble with.
Acording to the local shop that I got mine from they had a bad batch of boards about 15 months ago and I suspect those were the ones that gave me problems. Trouble is I hesitate to use them again in case I get a repeat, although it sounds like you have only had good experiences
I have just tried these float frames link
I was impressed with the overall finish effect
basically its a self adhesive mount board that when you stick your image to fits snug inside a small profile frame,
The "museum" method of taping the print at thetop edge and leaving it to float is generally used only for archivally printed mono or giclée on art paper.
Photobox prints might be on ordinary RA4 paper which isn't archival and is best stuck to the mount. 3 basic methods:-
1. using brown-can or red-can Scotch spray. Follow directions on can.
2. dry-mounting in a heated press.
3. cold-mounted using a jet mounter - that resembles an old washing mangle.
The first is cheap to set up, the other two can be done by a lab, but use expensive kit.
Rather than tape all the way along the top edge. I find a couple of T-Hinges made from archival tape work fine.
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