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I'm having troubles synchronising parameters between two cameras, the 20D and the 30D.
I know about the new Styles, but after comparison tests I find the differences so subtle as to not make much differerence in practise.If I were to select my favourite style it would be Autumn Hues.
I was under the impression that Neutral on 30D was equivalent to Para 2 0n 20D but I found that Neutral was less punchier than Para 2.On looking up Details I found that the measurents were different too ! Whilst the 30D showed numbered settings, the 20D showed High, Mid High, etc.
As I like to work with two cameras is there any way I can synchronise the two cameras to provide similair results without having to resort to detailed comparison tests ?
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Have you used the Picture Style editor on the computer?
Try shooting the same scene in raw mode using each camera. Load both pictures into Digital Photo Professional and apply identical settings to them. How different do they look?
If they look pretty much the same then that points to one solution, a lot different means another way to go, but you need to test that first.
Ive tried duplicate Raw shooting and processed in LR3 and still got mismatching.
In that case clearly there's a difference in the way the images come off the sensor. Setting them to the same picture styles won't give the same results.
Here's what to do (you'll have to do this in DPP) load raw images from each camera. Adjust the sharpness, tone, saturation, contrast etc until the images are how you want and they match. The images will look the same but you will have two lots of settings. Note those settings and duplicate them in Canon's Picture Style Editor, save the one that suits the 20D to the 20D and the one that suits the 30D to the 30D.
OK. I'll try that tomorrow.
I generally work with Lightroom 3, how would Iintegrate those settings into my workflow which is:-
On location, download straight to a desktop new folder, tag & rename etc, duplicate copy to external drive or stick.
Later, import from either folder into LR3 external HD on studio PC
I really appreciate your direct answer to my question, on most forums I get "Why do you want to do that ?" "Dont know the answer but ....." etc ,etc.
Are you shooting raw or jpeg?
People who use Lightroom tend to shoot raw, people using picture styles tend to shoot jpeg. You're doing both so I need to ask.
Once you've got the two bodies to match in camera you wouldn't need to change your workflow. The thing you're going to do in DPP is a one off. You can even bypass the picture style editor if you do it this way:
1) Shoot same scene with both bodies in raw mode
2) Load both images into DPP (you can even view them side-by-side)
3) Adjust contrast, saturation and sharpness parameters until pictures match
4) Note down the parameters and set them on the respective camera bodies
You have to use DPP for this, not Lightroom, because the parameters in Canon DPP have the same effect as the parameters on the menu of your Canon DSLRs.
To all intents and purposes you can think of DPP as being the same software that Canon cameras use to turn raw sensor data into jpegs except it's outside of the camera.
I shoot both raw and jpeg dependent on the circumstances. For stage work where the the lighting is constantly changing and different colours are introduced I shoot raw with two cameras. For studio and personal sightseeing shots (when I have more time and constant lighting conditions) I shoot jpeg. For sports/action shots I tend to shoot jpeg with two cameras.
The reason I use lightroom is that I was introduced to the system whereby the programme and the image files were placed on an external HD and my filing and editing system is based on Lightroom with an occasional foray into PS7.
As you will appreciate, to maintain continuity of shots when using two cameras means that differences in image quality are easily noticed. Apart from parameter differences, there also the different lens differences but as this is an item which can be set up in camera calibration I shall attend to that matter after I have established a level playing field.
Your suggested route takes me back to the good old days ? of balancing a new batch of Kodacolour paper
I havent had the time to do anything yet, so the answer to the question Im going to ask may be obvious when I start.
The main problem I can see is that when I look up details (under image properties) the 20D gives a reading siuch as high, mid high,etc whilst the readings on the 30D are 1-7 or 1-4 .When noting the parameters, particularly Sharpness how does the scale on the 20D relate to the scale on the 30D,and which reading would DPP give ?
Yes you'll have to load the raw files into DPP and see. I know that DPP "grays out" settings that aren't available with certain raw-camera combinations. Try to upgrade to the latest version, free from Canon's websites http://www.canon-europe.com/support/software/dpp/
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