Upload your photos, chat, win prizes and much more
Can't Access your Account?
New to ePHOTOzine? Join ePHOTOzine for free!
Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more for free!
Macroman's point is quite interesting. I once saw a photo taken on a Boot Bierette camera I think it was made in the 60s and cost about 10, but the photo was a sharp as they come.
Join ePHOTOzine for free and remove these adverts.
Macroman's point is very valid indeed - and one I have made to other people for years!! As an example I lent my camcorder (digital of course!!) to a friend and it has come back with a thumbprint on the UV filter!!
As I said on another thread, learning to hold the camera steady will do more for your picture quality than the sharpest lens. How many people know about how to breathe when taking a hand-held shot? Hmmmm?
In the 60's A friend of mine was asked to modify a Halina Pet 35mm camera (a very cheap basic viewfinder camera of the day)so that it was synchronised for an electronic flashgun instead of bulbs.
After a few hours playing around with the flash contacts he got it to work OK.
To check it out he took a series of B&W shots, and he took the same shots with his Rollieflex as a control.
He was most upset when the 10x8 Halina enlargements turned out sharper than those from his Rollei'.
You either breath in or breath out, one or the other. Otherwise you go blue and ruin the whole shoot.
I was taught that you breathe in first (gently) then breathe out - but hold your breath momentarily just as you press the shutter.
Give it a try if you don't already do this. It may stop you pining for a sharper (and no doubt very expensive) lens.
The best lens. Thats a hard one to answer. Bronica brought out a range for their SQA and it was a disaster. So they upgraded it and called it the "p" lens. on test it bettered the other german makes. I once had a fetish about lens testing and charts.Canon seemed to be my best with the new Fuji second in the 35mm stakes. but the Fuji body was rubbish. Thought I would try my digi`s.What a shock I got,on 35mm film i was looking at 80 to 100 LPMM. On digi the best is about 56LPMM. Tried everything to solve this. in the end I gave up.
On the breathing subject, breathing out as you press the shutter sounds like a trick from shooting (guns not pics). Though I would guess this is more relevant in shooting as you are usually flat on your chest, so your breathing does have a very definite impact on your aim.
Of course if your camera is on a tripod......
The idea is to momentarily stop your breathing as you press the shutter button. I still maintain that camera handling has at least as much if not more to do with image sharpness as lens 'quality' in all its aspects.
It is the same in shooting - breathe out, pause and pull trigger. It is amazing how much lying flat on your chest and breathing will cause the aim to vary.
The stillness created by pausing your breathing should also make a great difference if you are using a long telephoto.
Less necessary though if your using a 28mm lens on a tripod!
For absolute stillness using a tripod use the self-timer!
Actually I have been known to use the self-timer even with hand-held shots... in situations where (for example) I am using a long telephoto and I am unable to brace myself against something. It does help!!
Sounds a good tip - reminds me of a camera which Frank Beken designed to use at sea. Then shutter was fired by a rubber ball which he stuck in his mouth and bit down onto, so he could use both hands to steady the camera.
There is a pic of him using it here
If you are putting the camera on a tripod, if you have a mirror lock up facility on your camera that is even better as the mirror rising can cause some vibrations. Of course you can't see through the viewfinder while the mirror is in the up position but you can't have everything
We are drifting away from the topic. The oringinal question, IMHO, defies an answer!
Firstly, no lens is perfect in all aspects.
Even the most corrected lenses, of the same type and specification vary in quality regardless of the manufacturer. But they are required to be of an specified standard: some are above, and some below the mean.
Each type of lens/photography demands a different calibration to the next to get the best results possible. The question of, 'The Sharpest Lens in the World' has certainly provided comment, so in that respect it has some merit. However, I feel that a more appropriate question would have been, 'The most useful, high definition, all round lens produced for the mass market for a popular
I don't think we are really drifting too far away from the topic. Just indicating that the question is really a trifle pointless when there are more important factors.
Greetings! I would have to say that my current Pentax DA Limited 70mm f/2.4 and FA Limited 43mm f/1.9 are among the sharpest optics I've ever used, and I've used a fair share of lenses over the last 35 years. I have a 24x36 poster print I made with the Pentax K-5 and the Pentax DA 16-45 zoom (not even one of the aforementioned vaunted "Limited" lenses), that is extremely sharp and richly detailed. Of course, I used a tripod and good technique. That said, I am strongly considering the Olympus OM-D EM-5 with their 75mm and 60mm Macro lenses, but am reluctant to part with my Pentax kit! However, from what I've been reading, these Olympus lenses (coupled with the OM-D EM-5) are supposed to be incredibly sharp!
ePHOTOzine, the web's friendliest photography community.
Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more.
You must be a member to leave a comment
Get the latest photography news straight from ePHOTOzine in your email every month and win prizes!
1st December 2013 - 31st December 2013
15th December 2013 - 21st December 2013
Check out ePHOTOzine's inspirational photo month calendar! Each day click on a window to unveil new photography tips, treats and techniques.
View December's Photo Month Calendar