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Hi
I've recently purchased a Hassleblad XPAN II and after a few roles of Velvia 50 I have a couple of shots that I'd like to have printed.
How big can you go with a Velvia 50 (35mm) without loosing quality? The shots are of mountains, lakes and volcanoes in New Zealand.
Thanks
How big can you go with a Velvia 50 (35mm) without loosing quality?
How long is a piece of string? In theory the larger the print, the further away it should be looked at. However, some people seem to insist on close inspection, almost as if their primary interest is the technical quality of the print rather than the photograph.
A theoretical maximum enlargement from standard 35mm might be 12x16" before quality begins to visibly suffer, but nothing in photography is absolute and much will depend on your technique when shooting. A shot made from a good tripod will be able to stand greater enlargement than a handheld one for example. I have read in a Hasselblad News before though of an XPan shot being blown up to poster size with exquisite quality.
Thanks Tim for your reply. You've filled me with confidence. If 35mm can go to 16" wide then my 24x65mm tranny will be able to go to 30" without the lose of quality.
I always use a tripod with my landscape shots. Thanks
bear in mind that you are using one of the finest grained films going which will certainly help with the perceived sharpness of the prints. One of my colleagues had an XPAN print over 5 feet long. Close up (nose to the paper) it didn't look to good but from a decent distance it was bloody amazing.
as always though YMMV
Frank
Thanks for the info.
I have a cracking shot which I think is sharp enough (hyperfocal focusing and tripod) to enlarge.
What would you say is the mest method of printing? I'm new to slide film you see
Cheers
I think it depends on the slide. If the contrast range is reasonably low, you could have a Cibachrome made by someone like BPD Photech. If the contrast is higher, you might do better with a Frontier print by someone like Peak Imaging. Those are just my observations from my limited experience.
Thanks for the info.
Now this may sound like a very simple, perhaps silly question.
How do you determine high/low contrast? Are we talking about light and dark patches? Excuse my lack of knowledge here.
thf: That's complicated for a beginner!!!! ![]()
Personally, I would go to a lab that can do prints from E6 (NOT Jessops!!) and ask them to run a small print.
Don't be too worried if the print looks flat and lifeless, this can happen.
If you like it, get a larger one done (to the size you want). If not, try somewhere else. I regularly use a company called Goodwins in Portsmouth to get prints from 35mm Velvia and they do a cracking job on Fuji Digital Minilabs.
I pay 2.99 to get a 12"x8" print from Goodwins.
I have had one done by Jessops and it was (tbh) awful.
hth
Collin
Cibachrome is great but not cheap, and can suffer with high contrast subjects. I was always pleased with the R3 prints I had done - I think that was by Peak Imaging in the days before they switched to digital.
The last time I checked there was a lab in Leamington Spa that prints excellent R3s - Stoneleigh Colour Laboratory in Leamington Spa (Tel: 01926 427030). I have not used them, but steam train buff Malcolm Rainieri, who showed his slides at my local camera club a while back, had all his Velvia prints there. The prints were so good I had to ask who he used.
Simon.
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