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I'm looking to smarten up our oak driveway gates, which I believe have been previously stained with somthing like Cuprinol but this hasn't worn well (particulalrly where the local dog population has decided to mark their territory !!)
I've been recommended to use Sikkens but I'm totally confused by their web site (which seems aimed at the professional market). Do I need two products or one & if so which ones do I need. I don't want a painted look more a stained effect but something long lasting
Any help much appreciated
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why not just use solvent based creosote?
Creosote is no longer available, hasn't been foe a while due to it's toxicity.
I would opt for one of the main brands - not supermarket own ( eg Ronseal, , Sikkens etc)
Make sure it has an algicide as on North facing applications you will have problems without it.
Normally the difference between pro grades and DIY is pack size, concentration, DIY typically have anti sag additives (for example), some professional products may still be solvent based. Most come as stains so you should be OK. Is it new wood or old it can make a difference. I'm assuming fast growing softwood.
I always used to treat my fence with used engine oil engine oil.
Just re read the op - for oak it would be a crying shame to use engine oil.
With most of the products on the Market you wont get much more than one to two seasons use. I doubt the problem is really the dogs, but weather, the last two winters have played havoc with coatings. Due to freeze thaw. Also break down of the coating from fungal / algal attack.
Quote: I always used to treat my fence with used engine oil engine oil.
Hopefully it was well lubricated
Thanks for the tip but I don't think senior management would be too impressed with that finish on oak
We are just about to treat an exterior oak table with Danish oil.
That's supposed to be pretty good.
Not done it yet though, so can't offer any more advice on it.
Re engine oil, when I started painting in the 80's, used (non-synthetic)blackened engine oil was the most popular finish used on any exterior hardwood house structures(wood frames), as it gave the most matt black, and protection, than any other product on the market.
I think it was Sadolin Classic that was to supercede this, but used engine oil was a favourite for many years.
Sorry I cant help with product type required, there is so much upheaval in the painting industry at the moment, due to regulations on VOC content etc, that I might quote a product that is no longer available, or that has been superceded. These days, when I'm asked by a customer what's required, I have to go out and research it myself on a seasonal basis.
It's not just VOC regulations that are making it a challenge for the industry, but also REACH (one of the reasons creosote is no longer available) the biocides directive etc, etc. Formulating products 20 years ago was easy in comparison to now.In the case of biocides they are designed to kill things, so it's no wonder they have toxicity issues.
Back to the op one of the problems with wood is stains need to penetrate (sink in) to the wood. Wood is a very dynamic substrate - it moves, shrinks in the warmth & when dry, expands when wet. It discolours. A paint is different it seals the substrate ( at least as far as the laymans concerned) and provides both a decorative and protective coating.
With any stain you will need to coat the gate on a regular basis. I've been in the coatings industry nearly 30 years ( technical & sales), god that makes me feel old.
I did state VOC 'etc' Nick, knowing that you'd be along to elaborate - I just paint the stuff
One point you make Nick that interests me, is 'paint sealing a substrate' - as it reminds me of the 'micro-porous' term used to describe paint performance quite extensively a few years back?
With your background, would you say that terminology like this was used to give the impression that RandD was more advanced than it actually was?
If your gates are constructed from planed seasoned previously finished solid oak, it's very labour intensive. Firstly, strip, then repair/splice/re-dowel if needed, then machine/hand sand, sand and sand, using coarse, medium then fine paper cleaning with white spirit. The next question is how do you want them to look when finished? For varnished/stain, consider using Dulux 6yr weathershield, I found this better and longer lasting than any Ronseal offering (can't comment on others, never tried them). If it's natural look, then mix white spirit and suitable wood oil (this is high maintenance option in wet/humid or high temperature differential situations), give a few thin coats with 48 hrs between. Unfortunately the oil breaks down and the wood greys/ subject to moss/mould and joint shrinkage in damp conditions. HTH.
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