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ok here's my dilemma, i recently bought a sigma 150 macro to use with my 5D thinking what a great set up it would be, well i am sooo disappointed, at f11 and ISO 400 the top speed it can muster is about 1/100-1/125 in full sun at 1:1 ratio, my Nikon D70s with the Tamron 90 can get 1/200-1/350 at ISO 200, consequently i get camera shake issues at that magnification with the 5D, i am assuming therefore that crop sensors for some reason are better for macro so i am saving for another Canon body that i can use with the Sigma (beautiful lens) and am looking at 60D, 50D or 40D, i don't want all the bells and whistles such as video and built in flash etc, just a basic body i will be happy to fix my Siggy 150 to and go bug hunting, i suppose good metering would be a good thing too.
will i get as good shutter speeds with a Canon crop sensor as i get with the Nikon D70s?
my other option was to get a ringflash to use with the 5D so i could use smaller apertures but although flash does make colours pop better, i prefere the less harsh shadows of natural light and not have the extra weight to lug around?
any idea's would be greatly appreciated.
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Dunno if this is against the T&Cs but i have a 30D for sale if you are interested. It's in great nick and I've used it with a Siggy 50mm Macro to very good effect. It's in the classifieds here.
A cheaper alternative may be to use a tripopd for your macro work with a suitable macro plate.
1) Get yourself a Speedlite flash - 430EXII or 580EXII - either one will be suitable for this (but remember a good speedlite like these can work in any field of photography). If you're budget is more limited there is a good range of 3rd party ones you can get - though some of these might limit you to manual power (not "as" much of a problem as you might think, but takes getting used to).
2) Get yourself a Lumiquest regular softbox.
3) Mount flash to camera hotshoe - mount lumiquest softbox to flash - away you go
You'll get a tiny bit of lenshood shadowing (because you are shooting with the hood on of course) but you really won't notice it in normal shooting with the lens - even at 1:1 magnification).
This is the bare bones basic setup I'd advise; you get a good quality flash unit and diffuser which softens the light so you don't get all that harshness; and you've got the light you need to work handheld with the flash at smaller apertures.
If you want more you can experiment with larger softboxes (the Lumiquest Softbox III will fit to a flash in the hotshoe, though the advanced flash metering sensor will be blocked so your onto through the lens metering or manual). And you can also look at flash brackets of various kinds to get the flash off the camera and varying your angle of shooting.
I'd avoid the ringflashes; they (the macro ones at least) are very limited in their scope of use (mostly just macro); and also give a very flat light to the subject, which whilst great for medical or science use isn't what "photographers" always want. Though good ones let you vary the power between the two tubes so you get some variation. The other problem is that the position of them means that you can't really diffuse the light very well (remember proper diffusion is increasing the area of the light source - those methods that work by a sheet of paper infront of the flash that don't increase the size of the light source are only sapping power - you can do that with flash exposure compensation for the same effect).
Also remember ISO values between brands are not 100% comparable - so there might be some play between brands as to what is possible (this is as far as I'm aware, I'm not sure if or how much play there is between them).
Yeah I tend to agree with Overread. Buying another camera probably won't solve your problems. Sorry if i sounded like i was trying to push my camera on to you. I use a 430exII with the Sigma 50mm Macro. It's a cracker of a lens btw. I just mount the camera on a tripod and use the flash off-camera with a diffuser adjusting the flash output to suit.
I am currently using a tripod and hadn, t considered using a flash that would allow me to hand hold' you are quite right and it's something i will consider, still would like a new body with crop sensor for the extra magnification and working distance though?
Maybe even a 550d would be ok, does that have ttl flash?
NatalieJohn - you might want to start your own thread to ask this question; at present its rather strange putting the post here in a thread which isn't even discussing the topic and its likely to mean many miss your question.
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