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Worflow is so slow!!! Help!


17 Mar 2010 11:06PM
Hi everyone,
I was wondering what the best way to do workflow is. I know everyones is different but I seem to take ages doing things. This is what I do.
Upload into raw conversion.
choose, and edit, and crop.
then save in tiff of jpeg.
Then, I want to put them on my website. I want them all horizontal photos in 750px width and want the horizontal 330px height. Also want to sharpen them so they look good
My problem is that because I crop differently for each photo or least a lot of them , especially with my sport photos! I want to know how to get consistant sizes with consistant sharpeness ready for people to view. Please help.
how do I do an action where I can achieve this? if I do my actions in percentages then due to different crops I have done then I don't get consistant results. Maybe I shouldn't crop until last?
Please help
Thanks
John

John

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cameracat 11 8.6k 61 Norfolk Island
17 Mar 2010 11:29PM
Why not choose or create a crop size that suits your taste, Then save that crop setting as a new crop tool.....Smile

That way whatever way you crop your image sizes will be uniform.

True that on some occasion that can impact on how you want the crop to look, But its the only way to keep sizes consistant.

That said you have to bare in mind ratios when downsizing, So you may have to create a crop size that fits your end result pixel wise.....Wink

Hope that makes sense.....!!!
LensYews 5 1.3k 1 United Kingdom
17 Mar 2010 11:43PM
I'm trying to get around this issue my improving my framing when I take the photos, to reduce the amount of cropping and straightening in lightroom afterwards. But this is going to take time and experience, and find its different for each sport.

Also if you are just using a editing tool, it might be worth looking at a workflow tool like lightroom where you can automate quite a few processing steps such as the batch sharpening and resizing.
Nick_w e2
7 4.1k 99 England
17 Mar 2010 11:58PM
I moved to lightroom a while back, whilst it was a steep learning curve the presets are great for consistancy in the "look". And it's a lot quicker than my previous RAW converter.

Why do you need identical crop ratios? Every composition is different and requires a slightly diffeent crop to maximise it's aesthetics. Having said that I normally know when pressing the shutter how I will crop the image later and compose accordingly. I normally try to use as much of the frame as possible. Llightroom has overlays to aid composition, thirds, golden ratio etc etc.
john64 e2
10 824 England
18 Mar 2010 10:17AM
Hi John, here's my workflow (for what it's worth).

The first thing I do is to rotate (if necessary) and crop. That way I've got the composition sorted first.

Then I do any necessary tweaks, such as levels/curves, contrast/brightness, saturation, layer adjustments...

Then save as my edited, definitive tiff. I can then use this as my 'negative' for any number of uses.

To process from tiff to jpg I then just resize to whatever is needed and finally sharpen. I find that sharpening last of all usually produces the best results (try sharpening and then resizing - you'll see the difference).

Hope that helps in some way, but you're right, everyone has their own system.

Cheers,
JC
cameracat 11 8.6k 61 Norfolk Island
18 Mar 2010 12:09PM
There is a school of thought that you do not need to go throught the " Tiff " process at all....!

Basically you start with a RAW file, Work it through your chosen software, Then save straight to JPEG when finished.

When you think about it, Anyone working with Lightroom, Just imports the Raw files straight into the library, Then works on the images, Then exports them....! Its only at the point of export that you make the decision on what file type to export them as.

If they are finished, You export them as whatever file type you need, Be that Tiff or Jpeg.

Same applies to working with a Raw file through Photoshops " Camera Raw " when you choose to open the file this way, It is still a RAW file, There is no real advantage in changing it to a Tiff at this point, You can carry on working with it as a Raw file, Saving the finished images as, Once again whatever file type is required for the job.

However the one proviso that I would add to that is, For safety & security reasons, If you choose this route, Make sure to create a back-up copy ( You should anyhow ) of the " Original as shot unmolested RAW files, Preferably on a seperate back-up drive.

Then blaze away on the duplicate files Raw straight to Jpeg or whatever....Wink

There may be occasions when you need 16bit data to work with, For these occasions sure convert to 16bit tiff files, But for day to day stuff thats really overkill, Unless you have an endless supply of HDD space.....!!!!
Carabosse e2
11 39.7k 269 England
18 Mar 2010 1:14PM
There's even a school of thought that you ditch the RAW and keep the TIFF, but that may be unwise.

Improvements in RAW-processing software mean that an image taken in RAW, several years ago, could look better after processing with current software than it did with the software available at the time of shooting.
lobsterboy e2
11 14.2k 13 United Kingdom
18 Mar 2010 2:00PM

Quote:However the one proviso that I would add to that is, For safety & security reasons, If you choose this route, Make sure to create a back-up copy ( You should anyhow ) of the " Original as shot unmolested RAW files, Preferably on a seperate back-up drive.

Then blaze away on the duplicate files Raw straight to Jpeg or whatever..



I didn't think any software actually changed the raw files? I was under the impression that all the changes are recorded in Sidecar files.
Though you should always have at least 3 copies of your raw files somewhere.

As to the original question, Lightroom would help speed things up.
For a lot of stuff there is no need to generate a Tiff file and jpg exports can be preconfigured to save a lot of messing about.

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