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Broke my leg so stuck at home trying to amuse myself. Saw some flowers in a vase so tried out my Tamron 90mm Macro lens on them
| Brand: | NIKON CORPORATION |
| Camera: | Nikon D200 |
| Lens: | 90.0 mm f/2.8 |
| Recording media: | RAW (digital) |
| Date Taken: | 30 Apr 2012 - 1:56 PM |
| Focal Length: | 90mm |
| Lens Max Aperture: | f/4.4 |
| Aperture: | f/9.0 |
| Shutter Speed: | 0.3sec |
| Exposure Comp: | 0.0 |
| ISO: | 100 |
| Exposure Mode: | Manual |
| Metering Mode: | Center-weighted average |
| Flash: | No Flash |
| Title: | Into the heart of a flower |
| Username: | |
| Uploaded: | 4 May 2012 - 6:02 PM |
| Tags: | Flowers & plants, Humour / fun, Macro, Wildlife / nature |
| VS Mode Rating |
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| Votes: | Voting Disabled |
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| Modifications Welcome (Upload a Modification) |
Comments
Flowers are an interesting subject if you are stuck indoors, though I always find macro work surprisingly energetic! I am not totally sure where the focus point is in your image. The area around the heart of the flower is sharper, but not totally crisp. You could make more of this by cropping to put it in a more favourable position. The shot also has blown highlights, and, as you shot raw, I think you could pull these back. Another area for work if you fancy some time at the computer is cloning out the black spots of pollen and that hair like thing near the centre. The trouble with macro is it draws attention to imperfections, and the trouble with table top work is that everyone expects it to be perfect, so it tends to involve postprocessing unless you manage to completely control blemishes. Glassware is a nightmare for this! Will be interested to see your next shots!
Did a mod. I think that this kind of crop, or a really central one, looking down on the flower, can work. If you look down on the face of a flower, you can sometimes get more in focus. You could also use a smaller aperture. Another option which can produce great shots, is to reduce your depth of field to the minimum and then focus on a critical detail. You get a load that don't work, then the odd one that wows you ![]()
I too bought a Tamron macro to use for flower photography, Mark,but after many attempts I have yet to produce an image I am happy with.
I think you have made a brave attempt here but as Sue has indicated there are a number of minor problems and her mod. has gone some way to overcoming some of them.
Keep trying and I hope you succeed......I have given up meantime and will have a further bash at it in due course.
And so sorry to hear of your mishap but at least you have something to work at and keep you occupied. Look after yourself.
Ronnie.
Hi Mark, sorry to hear about you leg. As Ronnie says Sue has addressed the composition of this image,
I feel the image could be sharper and you have areas of petals blown. It is worthwhile remembering that with macro's you need smaller apertures than other lenses to get a deeper depth of field. I would have used f16 for this shot... unless you were aiming for the narrow DOF.
I do like the presentation with the frame.
Trev
So sorry to hear about your leg!
The advice above is good: a narrower aperture to get the whole of the flower's centre sharp (start somewhere around f/16 and see if that's enough); the centre of the flower would probably look better on the intersection of thirds and cleaning up the little specks would remove distractions.
Your exposure is kind of in-between the two main approaches and I don't think that really works because it looks like a mistake rather than a deliberate decision. The natural approach is to make sure nothing's blown out, which will probably give a somewhat dark-looking photograph which will need a curves adjustment to brighten things up. The alternative is a high-key shot, where most of the highlights are blown out to white but, at least around the centre, the boundaries of the petals are still visible.
The over-exposure here is beyond recovery from the RAW file. RAW files are great for recording detail in the bright tones and the shadows, which can be recovered by something like a curves adjustment. But once something's blown to pure white, it's blown and there's nothing you can do to get it back. Watch the histogram while you're shooting and make sure it doesn't bunch up at either side unless you're deliberately shooting high/low-key.
Dave.
I rather like this. There are apparent faults but the end product is rather attractive and your frame - not usually my cup of tea - gives an idea how it would look as a flush mounted print on a wall. Your focal point looks just a touch too far forward and a smaller aperture would help but might destroy the over all effect.
I think the slight over exposure of the surround helps here, acting as a vignette. The Tamron 90mm macro is a classic - a friend has the current version which appears very good and I have an old Adaptall version which I use manually on an EOS mount - the results are pin sharp.
Paul
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