Upper Eskdale

Of all the places I have walked and visited in the Lake District, my favourite has to be the valley of Upper Eskdale. If you want relative solitude from the tourist hordes and experience remote and wild scenery, this is the place to visit. The head of the valley is surrounded by some of the most dramatic and photogenic Lakeland peaks including Scafell, Scafell Pike, Great End, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags.

I have photographed the area from a number of viewpoints. I first saw and photographed Upper Eskdale from the summit of Grey Friars (grid reference NY260004) on a round of the Coniston Fells, and immediately noticed the potential the valley had for a closer inspection. Scafell Pike looked majestic from this angle, and much more craggy and muscular than the side that is visible from Wasdale.

Upper Eskdale can be photographed from the summit of Yew Bank (grid reference NY232031), a minor peak that can be reached with relative ease from the top of Hardknott Pass. There is enough room at the top of the pass to park a couple of vehicles, and a stiff (but brief) climb takes you past Hardknott and onwards to Yew Bank. A small tarn can be found near the summit and is an excellent viewpoint in its own right, with an array of mountain peaks providing a dramatic backdrop.

A word of warning: the drive up Hardknott pass consists of a number of steep switchbacks and is not recommended for the faint hearted. The road is sometimes closed in the winter months when snow and ice make for dangerous driving conditions.

To really get to know Upper Eskdale, you have to walk along it, and this is highly recommended. You can leave the car in a small car park at the foot of Hardknott Pass (grid reference NY 213 011) and head up the valley, following the River Esk past Brotherikeld Farm on your right. You have the option of crossing the river via a bridge near the farm and continue up the valley, but I recommend staying on the right hand bank. It is a far less strenuous route.

The path is well marked all the way and gently ascends to the head of the valley. The glaciated valley scenery is fantastic all the way, with the River Esk being a constant feature at the valley bottom. While there are ample photographic opportunities here, the scenery gets better as you progress to the wonderfully named Throstle Garth (grid reference NY227036).

Here, the river cuts through a number of gorges and waterfalls predominate. Cross the bridge here, and continue up the path that follows the left hand gorge (there is another gorge to the right). At the top of the climb, the scenery opens up as you reach the head of the valley and the best scenery of the walk.

I haven’t fully explored this area and I think I have yet to make the most of the photographic potential on offer. So far, I have followed the river to Great Moss (grid reference NY221049). Here, Scafell and Scafell Pike tower over the River Esk, and you are surrounded by smaller hills and crags. The scenery is stupendous and unlike the more gentle Lakeland scenery you see elsewhere. On a future visit, I plan to leave the river and head east from Scar Lathing (grid reference NY226047) and explore the scenery around Lingcove Beck. Here, Bowfell dominates the scenery – well according to the map, it does!

Once you have had your fill of wild mountain terrain, and used up your card/film, you simply retrace your steps back down the valley to where you started.

How to get there

This part of the Lake District is relatively difficult to reach by car, and this explains why this area is relatively quiet compared to other parts of the national park. There are two options. One is to approach from Ambleside, via the Wrynose and Hardknott passes. This is a beautifully scenic route, but if you don’t like steep and narrow roads then it is best to avoid this way.

The alternative, and longer, route is to approach Eskdale from the west trunk road, the A595.

When to visit

All year round, though my favourite time is in the winter months when the lighting conditions tend to be more dramatic, and there is the possibility of snow on the high fells. The colour of the grasses also tends to be warmer at this time of year.

What to bring

In addition to your photographic gear, you should ensure that you are suitably equipped for walking in wild mountain terrain. Stout walking boots are a must, even for the valley walk. Ensure that you bring suitable clothing for the weather conditions and always check the weather forecast before setting out.


You can see more of Peters photography at peter-heyes.co.uk

Upper Eskdale Images

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Tynnwrlluniau (e2 Member)

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19 Oct 2010 - 10:32 PM

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Wonderful photography of a beautiful location.
Alun