Hi, I think you're right. Mull is a good starting point for the islands. You can go from Oban, but there's a cheaper and shorter ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish. Using that would give you a drive through Glencoe and over Corran Ferry and along the lovely peninsula to Lochaline. If you're there for a few days then go out to Iona - a five minute ferry ride. If the weather is good you can get out to Staffa & Fingal's cave. I suspect the puffins will have gone by then but Staffa has a big colony that you can get quite close to. As well as the sea eagle you should be able to see otters in the sea lochs.
Enjoy,
Alan

In Off-topic discussion

Well now, that depends on the performance and capacity you want. Go for the best you can afford. Look at Advanced Photographer Magazine issue 31 - June 2013 in the shops now. They have a comparison test - last month covered CF and this month Sd.
Cheers,
Alan

In Digital cameras

I think I'll stay at home and drink a bottle of Thwaites Lancaster Bomber (very nice beer) and toast the men who did it and especially those who didn't make it back.
Alan

In Off-topic discussion

Most likely it's not "Health and Safety." Well, it probably is - but not because the planes are unsafe. My friend who lives near went for the 60th anniversary and it took 5 hrs to get home. In other words the roads are too narrow and the result is chaos. The website Nigeyboy quotes says the following:

Quote: However, access will be severely restricted – no tickets are being issued, parking is severely limited, and the roads will be closed if they become overly busy.

So walk in!
Alan

In Off-topic discussion | Page: 1, 2

I use HDR regularly, along with straightening verticals and other changes, and my aim is to make my photos look like normal shots with a wider than normal dynamic range. What I aim for is the judge doesn't know that I've used HDR. Thanks to Ade's help on a workshop I've produced pretty convincing images that have done well such as the Lady Chapel or the main Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool In both cases the judge could tell that I'd corrected things but they weren't obvious. I use HDR for high contrast outdoors too and that works well. So I guess you may like the more up front HDR techniques which give obvious effects and not many photographers (and that's what judges are) like these.
Most judges are good or exceptional photographers (people like Ron Tear) and they give up their time to try to help us. Judging is fundamentally subjective, and what some people like, others don't. I judge occasionally and I must say that an obvious HDR picture would have to be bloody good compositionally and I would want the treatment to add something to the image. If it didn't it would lose out unless it was in a specific digitally manipulated section, and even then the pictorial basics apply. Ade's exterior HDRs are over the top at times, but the treatment, in a night scene for example, adds to the image. That's what I'd look for. So ask yourself - is my digital treatment adding to the image or is it there to make something out of an otherwise unexceptional image? If it's the latter no judge will give it high marks. Ade's outdoor images come as a package of effects and they are planned from the outset to be part of the image.
Cheers,
Alan

In Digital imaging | Page: 1, 2

To be brutal, the 650D isn't capable of making the best of the L macro lens. I have the non-L 2.8 Macro and I get pretty stunning results. I took this shot of a butterfly with it on my 5D Mk2 so I'd get the cheaper lens and buy the strobe.
Cheers,
Alan

In Lenses | Page: 1, 2

Quote:
Selecting just the central focus point will result in much, much better success than allowing them all to be active. Having them all active is a recipe for disaster for birds in flight, especially against anything other than a totally out of focus background.

.

Well Justin, I guess it's whatever works for you. I simply repeat here the advice I was given by Andy Rouse and the guys at a Canon wildlife day. The argument is that once the camera locks on the focus remains locked. Having all the focus points active means that a passing animal is caught and the camera holds it in focus. WIth moving animals, using only the central focus point means your success rate will be lower and you are limited to having central subjects all the time. But, as I said earlier, if a central point works for you, then enjoy.

Cheers,

Alan

In Taking photos

Forget the lenses for the moment.
Don't use one of the pictograms - set the camera to Av or Tv and select the option you want
Set the ISO to 800 or maybe 1600 - 800 on the 6D gives great results and you won't see any noticeable grain
Make sure all your focus points are active.
Set the focus to Al Servo
Set the drive mode to Continuous shooting
That covers the camera.

Now the lenses
Fast focusing lenses are important and Sigma lenses aren't as fast as Canon If the minimum aperture is 5.6 the AF will cope, but only just.

Technique
When shooting use the AF-ON button to lock your focus on the moving subject. Squeeze the shutter button when you're ready and keep it pressed. As you pan, to keep tracking keep firing. Every time you stop shooting the camera has to refocus, so think digital and throw away the failures.

Try and try again and your hit rate should increase.

All the best,

Alan

In Taking photos

I have a 5D MkII and the following lenses
I'd go for the MkIII it is truly stunning. Given its high ISO performance f4 lenses are adequate and 2.8 nice to have
17-40L - now I'd get the 16-35L, but if cost is an problem the 17-40 is a smashing lens - see my Lady Chapel shot
24-105L - f4 but an excellent lens and one I use 90% of the time - see the Sixt fer a Cheval shot
100 Macro - the non-L is excellent but the L series is even better and has IS - see my butterfly on lavender for the non-L lens
70-200f4 L The cheapie 70-200 with no IS but it is light and razor sharp. Get the IS version or the 2.8 if you can afford it
100-400L For occasional long distance work and I have the 1.4 converter. It's an old but well tried design and gave me super results in India chasing tigers and birds.
All the best.
Alan

In Canon Cameras

I tend to use Sandisk, but they may not be the best anymore. Advanced Photography has a review in this month's edition - go and have a look.
Alan

In Accessories

Agree with Big Bri. A pro is someone who makes all or part of their living from photography. Doesn't mean they're any good! I have done a few weddings for friends and they've been very happy with the results, but I'm not a pro. If you're going to charge I would make sure that the couple know how much time you will put in for prep, recce, doing the job, post processing and time with them to help their choices and make up the album. You know that already I guess, but you need to spell it out.
This is another example of the "democratisation" of photography. People have easy access to good cameras so "anyone can do it, it's not that hard" becomes the attitude. Not everyone can - I saw people out in Amsterdam on holiday with their spanking new low end SLRs using live view to take their shots. Boy will they ever be disappointed by all the out of focus photographs,
As others have said, if you're going to charge don't mix friends and work.
Alan

In General Photography discussion | Page: 1, 2, 3

I agree. I have a 5D Mk II which hasn't got the pre-sets. The flower puts the camera in control and it will optimise DoF and shutter speed, but to get the very best from the lens Av or manual are best. That puts you in control of the effect you want to get. That is a fabulous lens and I hope you get equally fabulous results. If you're unsure what you want there are lots of books available and tutorials on the web. EPZ has lots on macro to help. Just put macro in the search box.
Cheers,
Alan

In Lenses | Page: 1, 2

Next time I get someone calling for her indoors I'm going to try:
"What do you mean? That's my beloved wife who died last week. YOu are awful harassing someone in such a position." Then burst into tears before I hang up.
Or
"Who do you want? She has left me and I'm desperate to find her. Do you know where she is? Tell me please, I'm desperate."
OR one I have used
"That person no longer lives here stop calling her."
Then I hang up.

In Off-topic discussion

Lee,

Sorry you're response crossed with mine. It terms of focus what will appear on the sensor is what you see, but exposure can vary unless you use the right setting in live view.

Alan

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2

I always use manual focus with live view and then the X10 magnification to fine tune. When using live view your mirror is up so there will be no movement of the camera when you use your remote release.

To get everything as sharp as you've seen it in live view do the following:
- Put the camera on a tripod - tick you've done that
- Fit a cable release - you've done that
- Make sure your subject cannot move - not sure about that
- set the lens to manual focus - not sure you've done that
- Use the live view setting that shows you what the camera will deliver in terms of exposure (I can't remember what it's called - look in your menu)
- Use live view and the 10X magnification to focus manually - that flips up the mirror, effectively mirror lock.
- Fire the camera in live view

That should work to give you a sharp well exposed image.

Alan

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2

Brill, I've ordered one - it will look good when I'm out with mine!
Alan

In Canon Cameras | Page: 1, 2

It's just an optical viewfinder. It only gives an approximate view of what will be in the shot. It's really only there for use in very contrasts conditions when the screen is hard to see.
Alan

In Canon Cameras

It depends what you want. The G15 follows in a line of great small sensor compacts. I love my G11, but I'd get a G1X these days for the bigger sensor. It's a fraction bigger than the normal G series, but is even better.
I think key here is the fact that many Nikon using Pros carry G series compacts.
Alan

In Digital cameras

Yes, leave it on. Most cameras have a "sleep" mode where they come back to life as soon as you touch the shutter button, so better to leave it switched on. In any case the battery will last much more than two hours and you should always carry spare batteries and cards.
Cheers,
Alan

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2

If you don't want to buy Canon extension tubes, buy the best you can afford. You may not be able to afford them this month, but save your money and buy better quality. That said, I have the Canon 100 Macro and some extension tubes, and like Colin the tubes never see the light of day. They will drastically reduce your working distance and AF won't work when the light levels fall far enough. My 5D MkII struggles at 1:1 as it is unless the light is very bright.
Alan

In Canon Cameras

I'd go for the 7d and a good lens. The reason is that it is a cropped sensor like your 400d. The low light capability is good and your current lenses will behave the same way as on the 400. It's a cracking camera - my daughter has one and thinks it's stunning. You get more versatile AF than on the older models or the 6D
Another option is to keep your current lenses and upgrade your flash to a 430 ex II if you haven't got one already. All the best with whatever you buy.
Alan

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

To fill the frame you're definitely going to need a telescope and adaptor. A working magnification of 80 times will fill the circle of a telescope, so about 40- 50 times for a photographic frame is my guess. On a full frame camera 40 times magnification is about 2000mm, or something the size and cost of a house
Alan

In Nikon Cameras

I use Aperture and, like Light Room, I can work directly on my RAW files, so I only ever convert to jpeg to export to PS Elements. Unless you need to work in other software why bother to convert the file unless you have a small hard disk. Every time you convert you lose some data and some ability to adjust your image. I suspect Lightroom will let you convert to psd for working in Photoshop and that's lossless too so the file will still be very big. If you must export to jpeg then the advice you got above is correct, look for the save options and select the largest file size.
Alan

In Digital imaging

I have a G10 which is great and a friend has the G9 at my recommendation, and it's still going strong. I think the only thing I would say is to avoid high ISO as it gets very noisy above about 200/400 ISO. Because the focal length is so short the lens gives front to back focus at f4-5.6 and you get good depth of field even at f2.8 when it's wide open. Enjoy the G9 and keep the G3 for back-up.
Alan

In Canon Cameras

Oh dear, this seems to have kicked things off.

Yes, this a photographic site, designed to help people with their photography, but the medium of expression is English, and there are a few fundamentals that should be correct.

It's up there with eats, shoots, and leaves; or should that be eats shoots and leaves?

Cheers,

Alan

In Off-topic discussion

Quote: Add me to the Grumpy Old Gits Club. One of the English teachers at the school at which I work says "Mr Blokeh, English is an evolving language."

My reply to this is that there are some mutations that should be destroyed at birth.

One point I would add to your post, Alan, is that possessive "its" has no apostrophe.

Quite agree in full it would be "It is the tiger and its prey." That's what I typed.

Alan

In Off-topic discussion | Page: 1, 2

Quote: I was always taught the rule was "bung one if you feel like it, after all you can' always pretend its' just a mark where your pen slipped".

Well maybe when you're using a ballpoint, but it doesn't work with a keyboard

Grumpy old git - me I mean.

In Off-topic discussion | Page: 1, 2

I know, I know, I know, I'm a grumpy old git, but am I the only one on here that hates the intrusive apostrophe? People, plurals only need to have an S added unless there's a Y in there where you substitute ie for y. So tiger and tigers, partridge and partridges, irony and ironies. You only need an apostrophe if you are adding the s to denote the possessive. So "the tiger's prey," or "the partridges' dislike for snow," when there's more than one partridge. Its and it's break the rules of course. It's the tiger and its prey.
Oh dear, oh dear, next I'll be bellyaching about "I was sat," when you mean "I was sitting," or "I was stood," when you mean, "I was standing." To say, "I was sat," implies you were placed in that seat by someone. But then I lie down, I certainly only "Lay down" wine.
Grump, grump, grump.
Alan

In Off-topic discussion | Page: 1, 2

Fantastic, and yes I agree about the tiger's tongue and teeth close up.
Alan

In Off-topic discussion | Page: 1, 2

Sorry to hear you have a problem, but regrettably any manufactured device has the possibility of failure,however small. When defects are measured in 1 for so many hundred thousand, someone will get that 1. Get it fixed or have it replaced under the Sale of Goods Act.
Alan

In Digital cameras

YOu can't compare the 70-200 with the 24-105. They're both excellent lenses but you'd be using them for different purposes. You could try the 70-300L, which might b better for sport, but as Mike says it depends on the sport. I have a 5D Mk II and I went to the velodrome in Manchester armed with my 100-400 and the 24-105, only to find that the 24mm end of the shorter lens was very useful because the action is so close. At footie or rugby you'd need to be at pitch side and use a very long lens for most action. In other words it's a compromise, but using an L series will give you ultrasharp images and you can crop those quite a bit depending on the sensor quality of course.
Alan

In Lenses

I would go for the Canon 100 2.8. Now whether you go for the L series or not is a matter of personal choice (and budget). I use the "standard" lens on my 5D mkII and it is incredible. There are several shots in my portfolio using this lens. Here is a good example, the final image on view being cropped from the original. There's no IS like on the L series, but for the money it's still a super lens, and I think beats the independents.
Alan

In Group Chat | Page: 1, 2, 3

The advice you got is just the same as I would give. Spend your money on the glass. Some pros look on the body as if it were film. That is you don't spend on film any more the sensor is effectively the film. Think of the body in terms of the cost of film processing. £8 a pop for film and development soon mounts up and if you divide the cost of your camera body by that it puts the price into perspective.
I have that 70-200 F4L and it's brilliant. Very sharp and very light. Once you start on L lenses they get to be addictive
Alan

In Lenses | Page: 1, 2

Ok, for us non-US folk that's a choice between the EOS 600D or 650D. I don't know what the difference in price is, but I think it's around $100.
The general principle should be; buy the best glass you can afford and treat the camera body as replaceable. So, let's look at your requirements. Scenery, landscapes and family portraits can best be taken with a wide/normal zoom. If you can afford the EF-S 17-85mm IS lens that will be going for years and would enable you to upgrade the body when you're ready and still give good results. For a longer standard zoom there is the EF-S 18-135 IS STM lens, but if you're going to buy and carry a longer zoom then stick with the 17-85.
Wildlife is a whole new ball game. The minimum focal length at the long end is 300mm, and the best glass around that's not a pro lens is the EF 70-300 IS USM. The maximum aperture is slowish at 5.6, but the IS helps. If you're going to get really serious about wildlife you will want longer lenses and they will all bust your budget, so my guess is that you aren't trying to be the next wildlife master and like most of us you'll be content with animals up close.
Tripods should be as sturdy as you can afford. Rising centre columns on the whole are not used so much, so look for good locks on the leg sections and the ability to hang a brick or a camera bag from the column to add stability. Get a tripod with a removable head so you can upgrade over time - either with better legs or a better head.
There you go, I hope that helps.
Alan

In Canon Cameras | Page: 1, 2, 3

Ian, now that I see you're going for your A I understand your question better.
It really goes back to my original comments on nature photography. This is a crowded place and for an A you do have to find something different. For example, at the current National Gallery exhibition there are some incredible flower photos by an Israeli photographer. He froze bunches of flowers in liquid nitrogen and then blew them up capturing the flying shards using high speed photography! Now that's extreme, but it shows what you're up against.
I am planning my A and I have got the idea sorted out, I just (ahem) need to produce now. I went to an advisory day and was pointed at a mentor once they'd said the idea was a good one. Maybe you should give that a go at one of those either with some work or as an observer ver.
Cheers,
Alan

In General Photography discussion

Hi Ian, no offence taken, but this shows that maybe you should give a local club a chance for a while. You will get some help and stimulation to improve your photography.

Clubs have an unfair image as being full of old fogeys (like me), but in the last few years as use of SLRs has increased so has membership often from the younger end of the age range. Have a look at the PAGB site and see what's going on where you live. Most clubs will let you come along for a few weeks to see if it suits you.

Thanks for your kind comments and votes.

Cheers,

Alan

In General Photography discussion | Page: 1, 2, 3

Hi Anne, it may be on your filter - try again next month with filter and without and see if you can repeat the shadow image.
Alan

In General Photography discussion | Page: 1, 2, 3

As an RPS "type" I take offence. Not only does the RPS NOT look down on flower photography, it part sponsors the the Garden Photographer of the Year competition. I indulge and so do many others in the RPS/Club circuit. What you might find in one club is similar to comments on birds like "It's a bird on a stick" that I have come across. Judges who are disparaging should be pulled up.
The difficulty with nature photography in general is a magnified version of other forms of photography. That is the plethora of flower and animal shots is so great that it is hard to be different. What satisfies us as photographers and what grabs the attention may not be the same thing. It's a sad fact, but nature photography has to be exceptional to succeed. Have a look at my portfolio of wildlife and a few flower photographs. I got very few votes on what I thought were pretty good shots of tigers, monkeys and birds in India.
Best of luck, but don't paint people by their affiliations.
Alan Cameron LRPS

In General Photography discussion

Hi, yes I would calibrate the monitor. I use a Color Munki, but I must say there's rarely any change when I reset it. Welcome to the iMac world, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
Alan

In Computers | Page: 1, 2, 3

You lucky person. Budapest is fantastically photogenic. I only ever had a few hours - up to one day and I got lots of great photographs.

The obvious place to start is Buda. Photographing from the Széchenyi or "Chain" Bridge (on the Pest shore) you will get the classic view of Buda Castle. Cross the bridge and work your way up to the Castle itself for some excellent shots of the details of that building. The quarter just outside the castle is worth a look and particularly the Fisherman's Bastion to the north of the castle. Travel south along the ridge and even down by the river you will find lots to photograph. I found the Citadel and the modernist sculptures there to be very interesting too.

Cross the Freedom Bridge and have a look at the market hall with its lovely roof. Then work you way along through the city to St Stephen's Basilica. As you go look out for the Fin de Siecle Art Nouveau architecture - some in a poor state but much of it very interesting. You have to look for it and the best places are near the Basilica. The church is quite special and worth go inside. If you have time, pay the few pounds and climb to the roof for excellent views.

Next take the underground out to Heroes square - I found it fascinating as is the park nearby with the 19th century Turkish bath and the nearby smaller castle. A curiosity there is the cowled sculpture called "Anonymous" It's a bronze and much photographed. Explore around the lovely Parliament Building - recently cleaned up and really fascinating gothic architecture. I understand it is lovely inside but the queues are very long. Nearby on the river bank is the memorial to the Jews murdered in the second world war. It's quite poignant as it consists of a row of bronze shoes by the quayside. Basically many victims were simply thrown in the Danube and left to drown.

Late evening views by the Danube are excellent and the nighttime shot par excellence is from the Pest bank of the Széchenyi Bridge and the Castle.

Well that's my quick look, but enjoy it, Budapest is lovely.

Alan

In Off-topic discussion

I had no trouble getting my 100-400 L into the rowing venue. Not an eye was batted. It is (just) 30cm long open, but that is without the lens hood, so basically no problems. The Games site is clear 30cm max, so many modern zooms will fit.

It was fantastic being part of the wall of noise near the finish. Tickets were £95 each but to see Kath Grainger finally getting that gold medal was absolutely worth every penny.

I've posted this on the main gallery


Come on GB.

Alan

In General Photography discussion

The law is clear. You were in a public place and the children were also. You can take photographs of whatever you like. Check The RPS site. As a member I carry a card that gives advice agreed with the ACPO. The first sentence of this is "Every person has a right to photograph in a public place." If this harassment is starting again, please report the facts to your local police authority. The instance of this is declining but it is obviously still a problem. A lot of work went into agreeing this and the RPS did a sterling job, ignored by their detractors of course. Principles were established and should be known to the police and PCSOs, and you cannot be searched unless there is a police officer present, and only then if there is suspicion that a crime is likely to take place or have taken place. Provided you are not taking photographs in aid of terrorism, you can photograph what you like in a public place - and that includes all the posh buildings you can name too. Only if you are standing on private ground can you be asked to stop and then it should be by the owners not the police.

Nice photo, and Chloe looks as if she's having a ball.
Alan

In Healthy Debate | Page: 1, 2 ...10, 11

You can think of it as film getting cheaper. When we used film the camera was a box with a fancy shutter in it. The sensor we chose (film) performed to a spec for grain and detail depending on design and ISO rating. If you used Kodachrome or Velvia grain was effectively non-existent and the quality was dependent on the glass.

Now days the "film" is built in to the camera, and the higher the spec of the camera the better the glass has to be - I use a 5D MkII so I use L Series lenses. Pros certainly think of the camera as the new film. Something to be used and changed before their lenses. So if you want to future proof then buy the best lenses you can afford even with a beginners camera. Divide the body cost by about 10 (the cost of film and processing) and once you get beyond the answer you get, your body is free (e.g.a 600d at £450 is 45 films, A 5D MkII at 1500 is 150 films. Then decide when you want to upgrade - lenses or body.

At around £550 to £600 what the 650D and 3200 do is provide high enough spec and quality at a good price to enable the upgrade process to focus on lenses. Even when I was not earning a lot, I would use 40-50 films a year, so these are cost neutral in 18 months. I think LF is right the spec is so good that for newbies these will last several years, so I would advise buy this and the best standard lens they could afford. Once cost neutral point is passed and there is some budget buy better lenses first, and then think about the body.

Alan

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

Richard Strauss - Im Abendrot - from the Four Last Songs
Elgar - Any one of the Sea Pictures

And so they go out happy - Monty Python - Always look on the bright side of life
Alan

In Off-topic discussion | Page: 1, 2

Or use the same aspect ratio and print to A4 length and slightly narrower than 8 inches.
Alan

In Printing | Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

Very well done to them both. All the best with your L panel in July. I have to get my A panel sorted for September.
Alan

In General Photography discussion

Hi Ade, I completely agree with Lemmy. I might ask them why they feel that way and talk to their nervousness. Then of course as you seem to have done you get them in a sympathetic pose and they realise that this process is not unpleasant and may even be fun. You're doing the right thing showing them the results and letting them feel that they have some sort of influence over the final result.

Why the consultants, I have no idea - after all you are a consultant with the specialist skill of taking photos.

Alan

In Freelance

If you are getting that error message then it's time to clean the contacts. For start just use a dry soft cloth and polish the contacts on the lens and the camera. If that doesn't work then try a little alcohol on the cloth.
Alan

In Beginner Photographers | Page: 1, 2

Hi are these RAW or jpeg? Could be that you have a RAW format ELements 9 won't recognise. You can update free, though I find this almost impossible on my Mac.
Alan

In Computers