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alansnap's Forum Comments

alansnap > alansnap Recent Activity > alansnap's Forum Comments
TopicRepliesLast Post
"The fact, though, is that every digital photographer enhances their pictures."
We all enhance our photos. All cameras are designed to capture data in a way that has to be manipulated to bring out the detail. If you shoot in RAW as I do you are expected to post process it to bring out what you want.

Ansel Adams used his zone system for exposure to capture what he wanted on his one-off negatives and he processed them in the same way - i.e. he printed to convey the image he had decided he wanted to capture. In other words he manipulated "reality" to create an image. When we view a scene our eyes and brain process the differences in shadow and tone to pick out the details we want to concentrate on. When you take a picture and you know that your camera will not be able to show what our eye/brain perception can, you must make a compromise on your exposure and process the image file later.

You ask "So it is not a composite if it is a composite of itself?" The composite you talk about comes from the ability to create layers in Photoshop to enable selective processing. We could do that in the darkroom too by dodging and burning. Many photographers, myself included, spent hours printing one image and building up adjustments to the point we were satisfied. When we had printed we took out flaws and distractions using dyes and a OOO paintbrush.
Cropping has been with us since the early days as have composite images. Even the purist medium of slides can be manipulated by push or pull processing and the use of filters.

Are you asking - should manipulation be limited, well some competitions do stop it, and in the right circumstances (or wrong ones) such photos should be banned, and they are. A photograph selectively processed to clarify the details is a valid form of communication. Provided the processing doesn't change the facts, e.g. removing Trotsky from the photo with Lenin, it's legitimate.

Try loading an unprocessed RAW file on the site - it won't work. There is no such thing as an unprocessed jpeg all jpegs are processed in camera. That's why most of us use RAW, because we ant to be in control.

Basically everything is processed and, provided the tog doesn't change the facts in a news story, or in a nature shot, then relax and enjoy or at least respond to the message in the image. It's no less valid than a news report where the journalist will put his or her slant on the story.

109 26/05/2015 - 6:16 PM
By SlowSong
Paying to be on a recommended suppliers list?
It's just a trade fair (God I hate "Fayre"). It's part of your marketing for your business. I go to similar events in the UK for our IT consultancy. We look at it as a an investment and a chance to meet potential clients. £195 + VAT seems good value and it's being quoted ex VAT as there is an assumption that you will be VAT registered. You don't have to be, but it is a business to business transaction. If you sign up then you need to take a really good portfolio and I would suggest you spend another £80- £100 on a pop up stand with your details, your website etc and a cracking photo on it. If you're treating your photography as a business, part time or not then you should be taking opportunities like this seriously.
As for it not being fair on punters, this is a chance to show punters what you're capable of.
All the best,

In General Photography discussion | Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
23 20/05/2015 - 12:49 PM
By themak
Canon 5dmk iii or 5Ds
HI Richard,
To get away from the tedious Nikon debate, I guess it depends on your style of photography. The 5Ds is a specialist camera aimed at situations where you need to blow things up to the side of a house. With the current Wex trade in deal you can get a MkIII body for less than £1400 if your current camera is in good nick. With the extra £1600 you can by yourself a nice L series lens.
If you seriously think that the MkIII does all you want, then it does.

In Canon Cameras | Page: 1, 2
12 15/05/2015 - 7:27 AM
HMRC Self Employed Query
As an employee you should have a tax code and PAYE will be taken from your salary. You should declare your freelance income separately. In your circumstances I would call HMRC and discuss how you should be taxed for last year. My guess is that you will have a non-standard tax code, because, on the information they've got HMRC will be guessing the right rate. This is a situation where getting your Self Assessment return in early would be a good idea.

8 11/05/2015 - 8:21 PM
By LenShepherd
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0 L IS USM Lens
I have been using the 24-105 for years with my 5d Mk2 and I'm very happy with it. The only issue I've had was a 5 minute spell when I hadn't noticed the lens and body weren't communicating. I took off the lens, wiped the contacts and problem solved.

Yes there's some distortion with his lens at the wide end though that's corrected with one click in Lightroom or Canon's own software. The same is try of the vignetting. Many of the pictures on my portfolio were taken with this lens, so have a look and you be the judge.

As you don't do wide angle this would be the equivalent of 35-170 on the 7D sensor. It is a bulky lens though shorter than the 70-200.

All in all I'm satisfied.



17 28/05/2015 - 8:19 AM
By KevSB
Is Face Recognition just a novelty/gimmick?
I don't use FR on LR, but then I never did in Aperture either. If you take a lot of people shots and you want to catalogue them, then it's probably a good idea. As Paul said it will be slow at first - a bit like the first time you back up a computer to hard disc and there's hundreds of gigs of data to sort - it will take time. Once everything is set up incremental changes should be fast.


In Digital imaging | Page: 1, 2
10 08/05/2015 - 12:23 AM
By Paul Morgan
upgrading from a Canon EOS450D
I assume that you will stay with Canon, so, looking at their website, you can see cameras specified as those for beginners, Enthusiasts or Professional. It's not clear whether you want a new camera or you want something with greater capabilities. I'm assuming that you don't want anything too complex.

The 760D looks really good to me and does a lot of what my 5D Mk2 does with a smaller sensor. All your 450D lenses will work with it, but be careful if you have an older standard lens it might not be up to the pixel count in terms of image quality. The new standard lens with the 760D is the 18 -135mm which is a great range. It's got a tilting screen and wifi as well so it looks pretty good. Cost at Wex is £899.

If you haven't got the budget then look at the 750D with the 18-55 lens.

Hope that helps,


6 06/05/2015 - 3:25 PM
By MalcolmS
Creative Cloud issues
Yeah but! I have successfully installed CC on my desktop and on my MacBook Pro, but it won't run on the laptop. I logged out of CC and back in but it still flashes the opening screen and then won't run.

Lightroom 5 runs fine on the Laptop.

Any suggestions?


21 26/04/2015 - 10:12 PM
By Jestertheclown
Reduced Photo Sizes in Photoshop CC
I agree with Keith, Sorry I didn't get the point originally. If you print from a 5D Mk1 at 300dpi you won't get an image as big as A3, the files aren't big enough.

You have two choices:
1. Print at a lower resolution. I found that printing at 200 to 225 dpi is perfectly fine, and that will get you prints bigger than A4 though probably not A3. We get hung up on 300dpi and really it's not necessary - the printer manufacturers like to tell you it is so they can sell more ink.
2. Resize the image using the bicubic adjustment. There you can set the dpi and again I'd use the minimum re-sizing to get you the dimensions you want. So set the dpi at 225 initially and give it a try. If you really insist on using all that ink then by all means use 300dpi but it means greater re-sizing and that's best avoided.

I hope that helps now.


In Digital imaging | Page: 1, 2
5 23/04/2015 - 2:06 PM
By alansnap
Reduced Photo Sizes in Photoshop CC
4368 x 2912 pixels is 12.8 megapixels which is correct for the 5D Mk1.

It's nothing to do with RAW it's just how the screen has been set up in Lightroom.

In LR open an image. On the bottom left of the screen find the Zoom control and move the slider until it shows "Fit". The picture will again fill your screen. You can then use other zoom controls to do 1:1 or 2:1 as you wish.

Alternatively, On the top left of the screen below Lightroom CC. if the Navigator is open you can see the words FIT, Fill 1:1, 2:1 and a double arrow for drop down selections. Just click FIT to get the image in the window.


5 23/04/2015 - 2:06 PM
By alansnap
Macintosh: Adobe Lightroom or Capture One Pro
I was along term user of Aperture, and I wanted a comprehensive system that would permit me to edit as I had done in the past with the ability to edit in PS/Elements just as I had done with Aperture. After some deliberation I took out a one year licence with Adobe and I'm very pleased. I can import my files from aperture easily and I've set up standard edits that allow me to do basic adjustments in a couple of clicks. LR allows me to work in my RAW files just like Aperture and all the basic layers type stuff is there without the need to create layers, just like in Aperture.
Then I can edit in Photoshop CC when I want to for converging verticals or complex cloning. When I stop editing in PS the file appears in my LR library paired with its original. So basically it's an easy swap.
You can, as someone has said take out a 30 day trial, os I'd do that. If you go for LR then the monthly service is a bit of a no-brainer. I was a little suspicious at first, but for a little more than the price of a single LR licence you get Photoshop CC too, and importantly you get all the updates. LR6 is about to arrive and will be part of my deal. At around £100 a year the cost is roughly what most of us would be prepared to pay for software annually anyway. The one thing you don't get is the easy ability to share photos with other people and I miss that a lot. I have to export into Photos and share that way, because the Adobe version is complex and costs more money.
By the way, do you really mean iPhoto or Photos? If you mean the former you need to update your operating system. It's free and brings all the security updates as well as new features. I'm on Yosemite 10.10.3

22 20/04/2015 - 4:34 PM
By Paul Morgan
iPad...am I the problem?
To state the blindingly obvious - find the nearest Apple store and book a free session. They can help you. iPads will certainly take RAW files, and I think probably TIFFs too. I have an SD reader for my old iPad and I bet there's one for the iPad Air. Otherwise there will be a direct connection device that plugs into the base via the cameras own USB cable. Cost will be a few pounds only.
Load the files into Apple's processing software and share via iCloud.

In Group Chat | Page: 1, 2
10 14/04/2015 - 4:00 PM
By collywobles
What is more important, the shot or the editing software afterwards?
Fundamentally, the end justify the means. That will sound bad to many people, but photography has always been about creating an abstraction as has painting.

When we take an image we have a view in our head caused by the brain's ability to capture and interpret a scene. Our eyes dart about into the shadows and highlights and our brain then balances out the extremes. We can even dark adapt to see at night with minimal illumination - starlight or moonlight. When we take an image our aim will be to reproduce what we saw, or at the wackier end of photography, we can create pictures that never existed. Provided one doesn't try to pass those off as "reality," itself a subjective term, then all is fair in our art as in painting. Take Constable who happily removed trees that spoiled his composition. Is that no longer art? Of course it's still art and we get hung up on the fact that it's now possible to do what painters have always done. Forget it, enjoy the image.

Cameras are much less sophisticated than our brain. They capture what is in front of them within the limits of their ability to deal with contrast and detail. For general scenes this is adequate though we can adjust exposure for large areas of darkness or brightness. We use HDR in extreme cases, or we use something like the Zone system to expose the scene as we wish to see it. I do this in RAW. I know some people are content with jpeg, and best of luck to them.

To me the RAW file is the score and I use LR to do most of the playing. I have a couple of pre-set adjustments that I use for processing most of my images and apart from cropping and straightening I apply as light a touch as possible. That is my choice. The RAW file is flat and lacking in punch - it's designed to be. You have to process and when you process you're not necessarily altering reality, you're merely creating your own. We can, and I do alter reality, in LR, PS, Photomatix Pro and many other programmes, and the extent to which we alter things is a personal artistic decision. It's not right or wrong, unless you're trying to subvert the law, it is just the photographer as artist converting the raw materials into his or her vision.

To say that the RAW file is the score goes right to the point that has been made above many times. You need to have captured something that is the start of what you want to achieve. The capture technique of combining aperture, shutter speed, ISO and focal length of lens is critical. Composition is key to the message too. George Rodger famously said he was so concerned with composition in his Belsen photographs that he was insulated from the horror of what was in front of him. Lynsey Addario, similarly uses exquisite composition to convey simultaneously the horror of war and the beauty of the world. Cartier-Bresson looked at his proofs upside down and would only print those images where the composition worked to his satisfaction. Adams with is Zone system and excellent compositional skills was happy if he got one image a year, but each final print was heavily processed to achieve what he wanted.

So, to answer the question. The editing software isn't important, though the editing is, but without the shot (or shots) effectively composed and exposed you can't do anything.


56 14/04/2015 - 9:39 AM
By Evertonian
High Disk Usage messages
Since you are using a 64 bit processor and running applications like LR, you will always struggle with 4Gb of RAM. I've lost track of the joys of what PC error messages are, but high disk usage implies that a lot of buffering is going on. I would double or triple the RAM if you can. Unless you've got fixed SIMS (Memory modules), uprating RAM shouldn't cost you more than a few tens of pounds from somewhere like Crucial. After some sweaty palms I uprated my Mac from 4gb to 8Gb a couple of years ago. LR works fine on 8Gb. It was pretty straightforward and the modules come with clear instructions. A local PC shop can do it for you if you're nervous about opening the box.
All the best,

In Computers | Page: 1, 2, 3, 4
10 08/04/2015 - 1:15 PM
By keithh
Wester Ross advice
Torridon is fantastic. I agree with a Adrian about the shore road along the Loch. If you're into reasonably easy walking then it's worth the effort to get up to Coire Mhic Fhearchair ( pronounced Corrie Vic Erracher). It's a hanging valley with a high walls all around and a waterfall at the exit. It's about 1.5 to 2 hours walk in, but if you get there with the changing light and the views over the wilderness to the NW it is magical. Enjoy it all,

8 05/04/2015 - 10:36 AM
By Dabow
As Photos is going to be pitched somewhere between iPhoto and Aperture, as you find it satisfactory, stick with it. You may have to pay for iCloud storage, but if you store your photos on your hard disc that won't be a problem.

6 03/04/2015 - 11:59 AM
By Philh04
Shoulder bag to fit 6D, 100-400mm mkII, 24-105 and 16-35 f4
I have had to carry a similar load over the years and whatever bag you use will be heavy. I bought a Billingham 335 about 20 years ago and it's still going strong. It's capacious, versatile and indestructible, though it comes at a price. Given your kit and what you've spent on it the 335 would take it all and is worth it. In mine I can carry a 5D MKII, 100-400 (mk 1), 17-40 f4 L, a flash and my small Leica binoculars in the main compartment. The front zipped compartment takes my laptop, or a full set of filters and the two front pockets take batteries, cards, card reader, camera cloth and so on. Go and have a look. It's an investment that will last a lifetime.

11 01/04/2015 - 11:28 PM
By NeilS
Macro lens for full frame
Canon 100 2.8L is the best there is. It has IS too. That said I have the earlier Canon 100 f2.8 USM which is performs very well with my 5D Mk II and is a good deal less expensive. Here is an example

17 03/05/2015 - 10:38 PM
By thewilliam
Day 9 March 2015: Church

In Photo Month Forum | Page: 1, 2
165 22/03/2015 - 12:58 PM
Canon A-1 troubles --
I agree with Umberto. You have a venerable beast, and I suspect it's performed way beyond its designed shutter release count. If you've never had it overhauled, then now's the time to do it, though you may find that it is beyond repair Sad
All the best,

In Film cameras | Page: 1, 2 ...11, 12
5 14/03/2015 - 3:51 PM
By pentaxpete
photoshop cc
You don't need to worry about clearing older versions of Photoshop. I assume you're going to buy Lightroom with CC in the bundle. Lightroom is so versatile, I only use Photoshop for a few aspects of some shots. Go to Adobe UK to download, then the charges are in pounds.

11 14/02/2015 - 2:50 PM
By Jestertheclown
Which macro, the Nikon 105mm VR or the Tokina 100mm?
First, an admission. I'm a Canon user, so I hope what follows will help.

I used to buy non-Canon lenses and I think that was a mistake. I learned over time that the Nikon and Canon lenses are generally the best around. I had the same dilemma as you, but swallowed hard and bought the lovely Canon 100mm f2.8 macro for my full frame 5D MkII. That lens is non-L series but gives me excellent results. It has now been joined by the L series version with IS (VR by any other name). I'm not going to upgrade but if the new lens had been available I wouldn't have hesitated.

You say VR is "obviously no good for macro" but many people will disagree. Certainly the IS on the Canon allows for real close-up macro hand held, something that is often valuable in the field for flying insects etc. I imagine the same is true for the Nikon.

Since the demise of film, pros have taken the philosophy that the body is your disposable item - by that I mean that's the bit that changes most - and if you notionally price each shot in terms of a slide or print, the cost of the body is soon covered by the savings on film. Glass, on the other hand, is transferrable, and the better your glass the longer it will last. You have spent money on a good body, but it's value will diminish quickly as new bodies become available. If you buy expensive glass you can take it with you and its value will last.

If it were me, I'd go Nikon despite the extra price.



14 13/09/2014 - 9:03 AM
By LenShepherd
help taking blurred background shots on bridge camera
Thanks for your response to my comment. Super macro is really tricky as at such close distances even the slightest tremor will be relatively huge, and when you get in close exposures become much longer than you'd expect. If your subject measures say 5mm across and during exposure you move by even half a mm that's a big relative movement.

There are several things you can do to avoid this. First make sure the image stabiliser is enabled (pages 26 and 27). Next, increase the ISO on the camera. For every doubling of the ISO your exposure goes down by half. You can set ISO manually - see page 24 of your manual, or you could try "High ISO Auto" That setting is designed to reduce blur and will help you. When you look through the viewfinder the shutter speed is in the middle of the display. You should try for at least 1/30 sec or better. You will also see beside that on the left that there is a camera shake warning. If that is displayed you should increase the ISO until the shutter speed becomes enough for this to go out.

Finally with a static object you can use a tripod with image stabilisation switched off. A tripod won't really work with your daughter though.

Best of luck,


7 27/06/2014 - 10:48 PM
By Mizz82
help taking blurred background shots on bridge camera
Hi, your problem as presented looks to many of us to be about blurring backgrounds. You seem to be having a problem with your focussing.

I've checked the manual and you seem only to have one focus point - an area in the middle of the frame. As with many cameras you can focus and re-compose to get the part you want sharp.

Here's what you do:

- Compose your shot and remember what you want to include in it.

- Identify the object in the frame that you want to be sharp - your target object

- Point the camera so that the target object is in the middle of the frame

- Gently press the shutter button to the half way point.

- The focus frame will go green when it's in focus. (If the camera can't focus because the target is too close the frame will go red and you'll have to move until your target is in focus).

- Keep the button half pressed down

- Re-compose so that you get the image you want while holding down the shutter button

- Once you're happy that you have your picture press the shutter button all the way down to take your picture.

That sounds difficult, but with practice it becomes second nature.

If you can't get the objects you want in focus there might be something wrong with the camera, but I think that adopting the technique above will work.

I hope that helps,


7 27/06/2014 - 10:48 PM
By Mizz82
Stuck Shutter or A Simple Glitch?
Hi, now this may seem obvious and it's a long shot, but is the card locked by any chance? That may mean it won't write to the card. I hope you get this sorted out.

5 21/06/2014 - 6:37 PM
By lemmy
Insurance claim
If you want like-for-like replacement you have to make sure that the valuation on the camera reflects the price of its equivalent to-day. I have my EOS5D MkII in at the same value as the MkIII, so if the worst happens that's what I'll get. Similarly I make sure that the lens valuations are up to date. Some go up and some go down so be careful.

19 21/06/2014 - 9:16 AM
By Nick_G
Pompeii - take the train direct from Sorrento, Vesuvius - there are numerous coach trips form hotels, Capri - an easy trip by fast ferry - enjoy the town and make for a side trip go to Anacapri and take the cable car to the top of the island. Take a cruise down the Amalfi Coast - a bit of fun and Amalfi itself is lovely.
I'm jealous,

In Taking photos | Page: 1, 2
11 18/06/2014 - 11:52 AM
By PhilT2
RSPB Calendar
Well done Keith. Super shot.

17 02/08/2014 - 10:48 PM
By KBan
Polarised filter needed for photographing cars?
I have used a circular polariser for as long as I've had an autofocus camera, that is, well before digital. It's the autofocus that can't cope in some situations.

In Accessories | Page: 1, 2
20 08/06/2014 - 12:08 PM
By AtticusFinch
Canon 100-400mm

Quote: Get A Sigma 50-500, cheaper & sharper

I'm not sure about the Sigma. A keen wildlife tog got one of these because her husband hogged the 100-400. She sent the Sigma back and got a replacement and then she sent that back too. Neither were sharp. I used to buy independent lenses, but I gave up because they eventually gave me bother and I've never had that with the Canon lenses. Plus independents tend to be slower to focus.

There's a reason Canon are still selling this lens - it's bloody good, but I would avoid second hand from e-bay. You'd be better to go to a reputable dealer like Wex or Harrison's where you'll get a guarantee with the lens.

I have the 100-400 and I really like it, though it is big. Speed isn't a problem with newer cameras where you can rack up the ISO. Have a look at some of the recent nature posts on my portfolio and also the one of the guy on the quarry wall. They're pretty sharp. Dust does get in so you'll have to clean your sensor a bit more often, but for me that's a minor irritation.



In Lenses | Page: 1, 2
12 04/06/2014 - 8:45 AM
By LenShepherd
IMac 27 incher
I use Aperture on my Macs and I find it OK, but I would stick with Lightroom, though you may have to upgrade to the Mac version. I suspect you'll have to change versions for Nik, though they may let you download on your current licence.
Enjoy the Mac, you'll never go back to Windows

11 07/06/2014 - 7:36 PM
By ancient_mariner
Can the Macbook Pro handle Photoshop and Lightroom smoothly?
I have a 2104 MacBook Pro with the 2.6GHz i5 processor and 8Gb of RAM and it knocks the socks off my (admittedly a little middle aged) Mac desktop in terms of speed of upload and processing. So if you get the newer processor you'll be laughing.

18 10/06/2014 - 10:00 PM
By elowes
Coming up with a theme or idea for a long project?
My thoughts are that you shouldn't keep them swirling round in your head. Write them down and then consider how you might deliver them. You have to decide what you're going to do with the results.
I have several projects on the go. One is aimed at getting my ARPS and involves one of my friends and his many interests, the other one still in the works is a record of cafes in the Blackpool area. This grew out of a couple of shots of the cafes in the street where my office is located, and then I thought, "Hang on, there's a story to be told for the whole area." So I have formulated how I'm going to complete it. Once I've taken the images I'll produce a book using Blurb.
Last year I went to Unseen in Amsterdam to see the photos and to take part in the Inside Out Project. I took a lot of fun pictures but they were just sitting there on my computer, so last week I did something about it and produced a book. I'm now waiting for it to come back.
Next I have to craft a book from my last holiday in India. After the previous India trip it took me two years to get the books done, so I hope I'm quicker this time. I'm letting the experience sink in and then I'll start to form the book based on a show I've been asked to give.
Projects are fun and give us a bit of purpose for our engrossing hobby. I hope you enjoy your projects, after all that's why you're thinking of doing them.

17 29/05/2014 - 8:18 AM
By garethpartington
canon 24-70
Thanks Steve, that's good to hear. Positive references are so hard to find.

In Lenses | Page: 1, 2
1 24/05/2014 - 4:11 PM
By alansnap
A bit of a camera dilemma
Hi Steve,

First things first. The 70D is a brilliant camera, with the latest sensor technology and processing. Keep it whatever you do. You like nature and wildlife so the cropped sensor is perfect for that as it effectively increases the focal length by a factor of 1.6 over the full frame cameras like the 6D. If your standard lens is the STM version of the 18-55 (the kit end) then it's perfectly capable of producing great results.

By the look of it you have enough money to consider buying another camera, but I would buy some glass. If you are really into wildlife you need a fast focussing zoom and I agree the Tamrons don't cut the mustard. If I had the cash, with that camera I'd buy the Canon EF 70-300mm f4-5.6 L IS USM Lens. It's expensive that's for sure, but at the moment you'll get £100 cash back.

If you start making some money then you might consider a spare camera body, but wait until you test the market. Whatever, once you've bought an L lens you'll not go back to anything else, so be warned Grin

All the best,


11 22/05/2014 - 12:19 PM
By Evertonian
Hi, Newbie Here
Hi Carol, welcome to EPZ. I've dipped in and out for years. Enjoy our community.

12 30/09/2014 - 11:25 AM
By darek90
Looking For Advice Re Melbourne and Great Ocean Road
Hi John,
Colleen talks about in and around Melbourne. Out towards the Great Ocean road there's Philip Island and the Little penguins - fun to see but you can't take your camera.
Moving on to the GOR itself Start with Erskine Falls near Lorne. There's a good cafe near there where the parrots come in from the forest and you can feed them and get your fingers nippedGrin Apollo Bay is beautiful and somewhere you might stay, then there's Cape Otway and the lighthouse there. Not far from there is Mate's Rest with it's tree ferns and rain forest walk. Then, naturally you have to go the 12 Apostles. We only got as far as Port Fairy, another good stopping off point. You need an Aussie to tell you about more places.

6 28/04/2014 - 1:02 AM
By MichaelMelb_AU
Airport Security Checks- USA
I would complain. I've never had any problems with spare batteries when they were in the hand baggage with my camera. Another reason for not going!Grin


9 27/04/2014 - 11:53 AM
By camay
ipad 4th gen or ipad air
We have had two generations of the iPad, and neither has had cellular, and we've not missed it. The Air is certainly neater and has a super display. Looking at the comparisons, for me the A7 chip is the differentiator. So, if you need the speed, that's the one to go for.
With cameras and electronics in the past I stuck to my budget and regretted not buying higher performance later. Now I also set a budget and then go for the model that's just beyond my budget. Sounds crazy, but by getting the one that's just that bit better you give yourself a little future proofing in that you're not tempted to upgrade too soon.

12 27/04/2014 - 9:20 AM
By Coast
eos m
Finally posted my reportage shots of the quarry in Kerala here. Glad you bought one, I really love mine.

22 25/04/2014 - 8:31 PM
By steve486
eos m
I have an EOS M as a second camera because I can put my SLR lenses on with the required adapter. I'm very happy with it and I carry it everywhere with me. I'll post two shots tomorrow one with the M and one with my 5D MkII where I took a wide-angle reportage shot followed by one with the 100-400L on the SLR. Image quality is very good indeed.

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2
22 25/04/2014 - 8:31 PM
By steve486
Day 09 March 2014: Photographing Church Interiors

In Photo Month Forum | Page: 1, 2
94 13/03/2014 - 7:13 PM
By Dannecus
Carbon Trends
The point of the swivelling centre column on any tripod is to allow you to splay the legs for low angle photography and I have found my alloy Manfrotto to be pretty good for this. You're quite right about the physics of course, but there are time when, like it or not, you can't get sensible placement of your tripod legs so you have to compromise on the stability front. You can put a counterweight on the column to hold things steady. I always use a cable release and mirror lock-up for this sort of work, and if you do that you will reduce the human induced and mirror slap movement.

In general carbon tripods are great for weight reduction, but will be more susceptible to wind problems. I have a Three Legged Thing which is great for weight reduction, but comes with its own sling that hangs between the legs so you can add ballast, or, failing that, hang you camera bag off it - though be careful in the wind as it will swing around.

So your centre column is no more or less useful than that on any camera, successful use depending on intelligent application of all your skills.


In Accessories | Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
6 07/03/2014 - 12:44 PM
By Robert_Malcolm
print size for competitions
Hi, remember that what you set as the maximum size is just that, so smaller sizes are acceptable and you should state that clearly in the rules. In any community competition you'll get a mix of people who will print at home and others who will buy from a shop, so the easiest is to set a maximum size that any home printer can get easel. So A4 as the maximum size means home printers won't have to faff around cutting down larger bits of paper while you don't rule anyone else out.
Next question is - do you want them mounted or unmounted? For a community competition I'd suggest you go for unmounted and then you can display them as you like.
Are you going to stipulate that prints won't be returned? If you do, you can laminate the prints and then displaying in any community space becomes easy. This isn't unusual and is of the essence of community competitions, as you can pass the prints around local halls and pubs etc to get maximum exposure. Between venues or even every day laminated prints can be wiped down after local punters have pawed them.
Good luck,

16 09/02/2014 - 7:48 PM
By cats_123
Leica M
When I had an M6, I had two lenses I used above all others. The 35mm Summicron-M ASPH is a fabulous lens and I used it most of the time. Another one not mentioned above the the collapsible Elmar 50mm f2.8. It was a lovely little lens and folded into the camera like a pancake lens. Again results were excellent as you'd expect. Finally I had a 90mm Elmar f2.8 and again it was stunning. Have a look at the first page of my portfolio and you can see images with all three lenses.
If I had the money I'd buy an M9, but that's very unlikelySad

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2
5 18/01/2014 - 9:24 PM
By mike_j
Tripod Help
Look at the Giottos Ball heads. I have the MH1300, which has a huge ball. The adjustment is excellent as it has a friction control that can be set to allow you to move the lens body combo without it flopping all over the place. Once you've set it up you can lock it in place with another knob on the opposite side of the head. Very effective. I marry that to a Manfrotto 190B and it's a great combination. It's a bit heavy though it works.
If you want something lighter have a look at the Brian tripod from Three Legged Thing. You can get it with the Airhead for 359 at Wex. I have this and it's an excellent travel tripod though not as rock steady as the Manfrotto. It is however much easier to transport and will go in a suitcase for travelling.

14 04/12/2013 - 3:35 PM
By phil99
russel v alfie
Placido Domingo any time!

7 04/12/2013 - 2:13 PM
By AlanJ
The Future Of Ecommerce ??
Na it's not real. The warehouse (Sorry, Fulfilment Centre) staff loading the goods didn't appear to be running.

9 03/12/2013 - 11:41 AM
By keithh
So you want to be a pro photographer… ?
Nice one Ade. I'm in a similar boat having jumped from mainline IT to a small consultancy. At least I have a pension behind me. Year three now and we're in profit, but years 1 and 2 were awful. I wish you every success, I would say you deserve it, but one thing I have learned is that skills aren't enough, so I wish you every success, because you've worked for it.

29 04/12/2013 - 11:14 AM
By ade_mcfade
Extender EF 2x III
It probably would work - it's best to go into a shop and try it. The Canon Website says that the EF Extender is comparable with L series telephotos and zooms.
However you definitely would lose AF. A 1.4 converter causes you to lose one stop, and a 2 times loses you two stops so the image will be very dim. That rule is true whether you have a full frame or APS-C sensor - it's just a rule of optics. I might try the 1.4X instead. Check it out here. You would have AF at the 70mm end where aperture is F4, but lose it at longer focal lengths.
With a 7D the sensor and processor quality is so good that I would just crop to get better magnification.

In Lenses | Page: 1, 2
16 10/12/2013 - 12:09 PM
By brian1208