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banehawi's Activity

banehawi > banehawi's Activity

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Forum Topics:7
Forum Comments:709
Photo Comments:29867
Competition Entries: 3
Modification Uploaded: 12070

Poster by Swarnadip

Nice bokeh.




In the mod, are these just spots on the actual wall?

Ali Furkan

Ali Furkan by Baycan

Definitely cute Ulas, but the shot doesnt look quite right. Its soft all over, and the tone appears incorrect. No amount of sharpening has any beneficial effect. The shot settings look quite good. ISO 800 shouldnt be a challenge for an X20 either.

You usually shoot much better images, so I wonder if something went wrong with the processing or re sizing?




lost by youmightlikethis

This is very good Ian, well done.

The conversion is quite good, and the amplification of noise by cropping so much works for me. In fact, in the mod, I added a bit more.

Since its zoomed in, the exposure will need to be adjusted, as the camera set its exposure with the larger scene. Its quite a bit underexposed, despite that coat, the mans hair, and the the socks being very bright.

So thats the suggestion and the mod, brighter overall except for the brighter parts mentioned above.



View across to Jura

View across to Jura by sdixon2380

Hi Steve,

Can you tell us, step by step, how you re-size this for uploading to the site? Theres something I would like to check, and something Ive noticed in your last upload of the lake, which is a nice shot btw.

Did you use a tripod for this?



Snakeshead Fritillary

Snakeshead Fritillary by Irishkate

The minimum shutter speed for that lens Kate for hand holding, at a distance of say 10 feet or more, with a subject thats not moving, is 1/100th. You used 1/10th so way too slow, and this is responsible for the blurred shot. (remember the way to calculate minimum speed is 1/focal length at 35mm; so 1/(60 X 1.6) = 1/100th)

With a subject that is likely to move, like this, (assuming its not fast moving), you would need much faster, and when closer, faster still.

This would likely need 1/400th, at F/5.6, and around ISO 1000. Noise might be a problem, but noisy and sharp beats clean and blurred every time.

So the suggestion to use Tv, or shutter priority is good, and if manual, prioritize shutter speed. Sports mode is not reliable, though its a step in the right direction. This mode will open the aperture full, use only ISO 400, and use whatever shutter speed this results in. It wont know your focal length, or take distance to subject, wind, etc into account.

Hope this is helpful.



Holy Reflection

Holy Reflection by JoMitchell

This is nice, I like it.

Couple of suggestions. Straighten the reflection, its leaning quite a bit; slightly increase the contrast in the water only, to get the blacks in the bell tower actually black.

The frame doesnt work for me, - but that completely subjective. I have dome a mod with the suggested tweaks, and of course had to crop your logo off as it was tilted.

Also used a different border to frame the image.

Very nice overall, and well spotted.



And THIS is what they're REALLY for!

And THIS is what they're REALLY for! by dudler

You have redeemed yourself with this eternally!

NOT adult category.

Im reminded of a news story from last month that happened someplace in Ireland. A mother was breastfeeding her child in public, and the police arrived and told her she had to go someplace out of view as 'there were kids around". If anything expresses utter stupidity, this is it.


On Guard version 2

On Guard version 2 by TelD

Thanks for uploading the original, and the exif information.

I have used your original for the modification I have uploaded.

You can see from the original and its histogram, that there is no black colour in the image, making it very light; it not overexposed, but I wonder if there was some light being reflected into the lens.

This is quite easilt sorted in Photoshop, but has to be done carefully, as the light level is changing from the left to the right across the frame, with a little more contrast on the left, and less on the right. This means identifying at least two black points.

The dog is sharp and well focused, and thats whats important. I see you used CS3 to modify the shot, and I suspect that you used the clarity slider to improve apparent loss of detail? I think the clarity slider should come with a warning, - its quite capable of making quite a mess! You need to be very careful, or just dont use it.
Let me know if Im correct, or if it was sharpening.

Noise is very low from what I see, though there is a small amount, but whether its the clarity slider or sharpening, overdoing either will amplify existing noise.

In the mod, the main work is done on the black level, which improves contrast, and the image then appears less flat and light.

The dog ONLY was sharpened a very small amount, with the eye catch lights enhanced slightly; cropped from the left as suggested; and also removed that basket. Notice I used a different method, not cloning, and you might find it helpful. I used the marquee selection tool, and selected a square on grass to the left og the basket; I then copied it and pasted it, and using the move tool, placed it on top of the bowl to hide it; then some minor cloning to disguise the edges.

It really is a lovely shot, - almost an iconic shot of the terrier.

Hope this is helpful. I happened to be lucky to arrive when the original did!



Bicycle and Road lamp

Bicycle and Road lamp by Diggeo

Nice, and I like Nathans mod too.



RED BICYCLE by ivonjunaidi

Welcome Ivon, enjoy the site.

The exif data for your lens is a bit confusing, but I will assume you are using a 50mm f/1.4 lens, unless you say different.

The idea of the shot is very good. Using the bicycle frame as a frame for the cyclists.

You may already know that wide open, at f/1.4, the depth of field is very shallow, as you can see with the front of the red bike more in focus that the rear, - its fading into softness a little.

This is one of the nice creative things about that very wide aperture.

There is a downside to this though that Moira has identified. Thats contrast. The wider the aperture, the softer the image, and the lower the contrast. This is especially apparent in certain light conditions, such as you have here. Contrast will improve at f/2.8 and above. Adding contrast makes for a crisper, more colourful, and sharper image as in Moiras modification.

So you have the option, in post processing, to improve contrast, or if you prefer the soft appearance, you can leave it.

If you are using a Canon 50mm f/1.4, it has a reputation for providing very good contrast, so you can take advantage of that.



Eastgate clock-Perspective discussion

Eastgate clock-Perspective discussion by xwang

Hi Jasmine.

Ive taken a very close look at this image using a grid, and the lens correction tools, and the rulers.

My conclusion is that there are numerous planes where the perspective is not right. This is entirely due to the way the camera was positioned at the time the shot was taken. The clock in not in the centre, and its not aligned with the centre line of the street behind. the cam,era was closer to the scene at one side that the other (horizontal perspective), and it may not have been quite level. So what will happen is that an attempt to straighten one plane, using perspective corrections tools, will make another aspect of the shot worse.

Dragging using transform will distort the image, though you can play with it a long time to get it reasonable, and it wont be perfect anyway.

This version is better than the dragged version, and I would leave it, but learn from it that its at the time of taking the shot that 5 minutes spent paying attention to keeping the camera square and level, moving to get the middle in the middle, will defray 30 minutes spent in Photoshop with a questionable result possible.

Whats of more significance to me is that the shot is underexposed, its exposed well for the sky only, and that all important rule of using + EC when shooting up into the sky was not used.

Ive uploaded a mod with exposure corrected, but nothing done with perspective.



Urban Slope

Urban Slope by iancrowson

Mono is better at showing the starkness of the lines and concrete.

Crop off the left is a good idea.

For me its a ramp though, an urban architecture ramp, so I would try another subject. But it may well be fine for the project depending on what the other three are. You may want to stick with a concrete featureless theme?

The focal length of the human eye is 43mm according to Pentax, who make a lens specifically for that!

Congrats on the new camera, - I assume you love it.



Summer Break

Summer Break by KurtSkeels

A window on life.



Breedless by nineteen68

I like this.

A successful emulation of a cinematic effect. The use of those two stones with the model in the centre works very well.

Pose, face paint, dress, all work.



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