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banehawi

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03/05/2015 - 4:50 PM

Broken

BrokenIts quite nice broken I think.

It is a tad blue, - but I think that base and background are blue?

You mention the image looks sharper on your monitor than it does here. I think you are comparing the original shot to the uploaded version?

One reason, and a likely one, is that during re sizing, if you do re size yourself, you are not including a sharpening step.

So the process would be re-size to 1000 pix (the ppi doesn matter); then save-as a new file name, using the Maximum file size/quality (dont worry about file size, bigger is better); then, and this is important, open the new file, check and adjust sharpness, save and only then upload.

If you are allowing EPZ to re size, you need to make sure the image is quite sharp, as EPZ may not sharpen enough.

I downloaded it, and the actual dandelion looks better if you reduce blue; the rest still looks blue, so it works.

The background also works better darker, and a crop off the right looks very good.

If you can enable mods, I will upload it.


regards


Willie
03/05/2015 - 4:32 PM

Controlled by their mistakes

Controlled by their mistakesI like it. I think youve achieved your objective.

The tilt of the wall behind, and the lean of the tree give it a nice off-kilter look, even though Miriam is not leaning.

I looked closely at it and made some small tweaks that might help.

The mod is a little darker, done by making black = black.

I lightened her eyes using the shadow tool, and made some tiny catch lights, - I think it connects her to the camera a bit more.

A little sharpening and its done, See what you think.


regards


Willie
01/05/2015 - 3:58 PM

I have lost my aircraft

I have lost my aircraftReally nice shot Dave.

You did exactly the right thing using +0.67, however, I notice that in RAW processing, you applied -1.8 exposure, which completely defeats your original setting, and applies a -1 exposure roughly, - the wrong direction you need to be.

I think you are concerned about blowing the sky, and the water, so you adjusted for the brightest parts; the intent of using the + setting original is to do just that, expose the person as a priority, and blow the background. In RAW, ignore the highlight warnings, - they are supposed to be there, thats what you want; use only the exposure of the person as your guide. You tried to compensate for darkness by lifting shadows a lot, - and your would be best to leave that setting with the original exposure.

I uploaded a mod. It has the ORIGINAL exposure setting of +0.67. See just how good your first decision actually was, - its a really nice shot.


Regards


Willie
30/04/2015 - 8:28 PM

MULTIPLE DISASTER

MULTIPLE DISASTERAssumption is correct, however check that Nikon link, - they are very fussy about Gain control with multiple exposures, - which I think is a way to balance the three.
28/04/2015 - 8:14 PM

Italy. The space #1

Italy. The space #1A really beautiful scene.

Perfectly exposed at the top, under at the bottom so the mod has the lower areas brighter. Really nice details in the buildings.

Also cropped


W
White Cliffs of Etretat, NormandyThis does need a grad filter, or bracketed exposures.

I can see from the RAW adjustments that this was originally very much underexposed. The details in the lower, underexposed area were lifted by using the shadow and black level sliders; clarity and vibrance sliders have been set quite high too.

This gives the image the appearance of having been digitally manipulated. The result is a little unreal, and over saturated, BUT, it will be of interest to many people who like HDR type images.


Willie
26/04/2015 - 4:54 PM

Night over San Marino

Night over San MarinoReduced castle exposure; adjusted WB to e a little warmer; cropped; sharpened.

I have not used spot metering once since changing to digital, - I use the LCD, its the best meter you have.

W
24/04/2015 - 3:32 PM

Hollly

HolllyBeware of spot metering Robert.


W
24/04/2015 - 3:30 PM

Gathering my thoughts

Gathering my thoughtsIt a nice image overall Peter.

Pity the front legs are missing, Im sure they are enormous. Its hard to think of everything though.

Ive suggested a couple of changes in the mod Ive uploaded: I would crop space from the right, moving his head to the right, and also a little from the bottom to make the omission of the legs appear deliberate ( a good technique!);
The white balance is set to cloudy, and that, in conjunction with a positive vibrance adjustment I think makes him look too yellow, or too saturated. Its important to realise with that statement that a lot of what you and I see are dependent on our monitors, which likely differ; this is why calibration of monitors is important. I wonder if it was cloudy, meaning no sun was visible in the sky, or perhaps where the Lion sat was somewhat shady, - they do like the shade.

I would also fill on those bright spots behind in that greenery, as they can be a distraction.

Take a look at the mod, but view it large, - it wont look right viewed small. There is a little sharpening, and the catch-lights in his eyes are brighter.



regards


Willie
24/04/2015 - 3:08 PM

Between mountains and lake

Between mountains and lakeIts a nice scene. It could be used in a travel guide, showing a typical small village in the area.

Its also a very difficult shot as the light presents some problems; the strong evening Sun if reflecting brightly off the many houses, which in turn, underexposes part of the image. Its a balance between keeping the whites, and showing the darker areas, and the lake is one of those darker areas that will look better if its brighter.

Bracketing couple of shots and combining in post processing would allow you to combine the best of both worlds.

There is a small piece of the top of the lake visible, and that indicates, unless its distortion, that the image need to be rotated clockwise by 1 degree, - quite small.

The white balance seems cool for the sunny conditions and time of day, - its 4950K, and I would think perhaps closer to 6000K for a warmer appearance.

The mod has these areas addressed, and also sharpened.



Regards


Willie
23/04/2015 - 4:19 PM

Killarney, April 2015

Killarney, April 2015Re sRGB and Adobe RGB profiles; A colour managed web browser (like Firefox) will convert Adobe to sRGB and display it, and do nothing to sRGB. A non colour managed browser can show some odd results when presented with anything other than sRGB. So its all about the browser, and how it shows you the image. Use sRGB all the time for the WEB, and Adobe or ProPhoto for printing.


heres a browser test page: http://www.gballard.net/psd/go_live_page_profile/embeddedJPEGprofiles.html
23/04/2015 - 3:45 PM

Killarney, April 2015

Killarney, April 2015This is interesting.


I have uploaded a number of screen shots above that you can view and read.

The point of what Im uploading, as far as Histogram is concerned, is that a BRIGHTNESS histogram is the wrong histogram for an experienced tog to look at to decide is a shot is overexposed; the individual R, G and B channel histograms are much better. In this case, they will show that its largely the RED channel thats pushing the histogram to the right; and the threshold view shows the shot is actually underexposed.

The series of screen shots show how it can be seen, and how using the threshold to mark brightest and darkets points, then using the Curves dropper can help; there is a down side, and that is any colour cast, as in one that should be there, is removed.

The exif shows an auto WB Tracey, though to be honest, this looks very red for auto; unless you have adjusted Auto to be warmer (which you can do).

The worrying thing is that the image has significant noise, but an odd, radial line -like noise. Is it possibel that you has been running a number of longer exposures around this time? I ask as it possible the sensor was physically hot when this was shot; and using long exposure noise reduction may have helped. This is all guesswork, as I wasnt there.

So can you shed any light on this? Have you cleaned you sensor recently? Have you checked the sensor for de-lamination, - some layers of the protective surface can flake off and older sensor thats cleaned a lot? Not trying to worry you, - its unlikely.

So let me know if this helps.


BTW, ETTR should be used only for RAW, as you can retrieve all the upper dynamic range from a RAW shot in the converter; the theory is that the right side third contains 60%+ of the digital data in the file. Not for JPEG.

Regards


Willie
22/04/2015 - 2:47 PM

Idol on Vestmann Island

Idol on Vestmann IslandThe stone figure looks very like the Inikshuks that are found in the Canadian north. The Inuit people build them.

Like previous shots, you exposued for the sky, using the negative compensation, which leaves everything else underexposed.

Its a good opportunity for bracketing, and blending exposures in post processing, which is what Ive done in the mod.



Regards



Willie
20/04/2015 - 9:05 PM

What happened to the view?

What happened to the view?Maybe take shots of other people coping with the weather; or the boat. Best to have something that will hold the attention of the viewer if at all possible.

I tweaked the image to provide more contrast, - its really not very different.



Regards


Willie
19/04/2015 - 3:27 PM

The blurred Maritime player

The blurred Maritime playerHi, welcome to the critique gallery.

The reason the player is blurred, and it will be the same for most cases where theres blur in an action shot, is that you shutter speed is too slow. You would need around 1/500th to stop this motion, rather than the 1/90th you have here, which itself is too slow unless the camera has some sort of image stabilisation.
In addition, you have zoomed in closer than 4mm, to 17mm. At 4mm, your chances of freezing the action would be better, as the shutter speed you have would work better at 4mm, and though likely a little slow depending on the speed of the action, it would be better that 17mm. Try, in that same environment, 4mm (not zoomed in) and 1/160 and ISO 3200. Try to position yourself, or point the camera to exclude the bright light coming in the upper wall.
The setting is inside a gym, and you are shooting into some bright light coming in at the top, so the environment is really not on your side at all.

So yes, your camera is not likely to "like" this type of place for action shots. BUT it should perform well in brighter light, outdoors, and the trick there is a fast shutter speed also. Better light will allow lower ISO and faster speeds, so dont give up, This scene here would be a real challenge for a professional DSLR.

I cant do anything to remove the blur, just brighten the image which Ive done in the mod.


Regards


Willie

INTP/ENTP.
18/04/2015 - 11:49 PM

Clouds over the pass

Clouds over the passCertainly very dramatic. Dante's Inferno comes to mind, a burning cauldron of fire.


The question is, and the reason why we ask for details about the intent of a shot, is to understand how much os this is as you or actually the camera saw the scene; and how much is added for dramatic effect. Knowing this will affect how a critique is done.

I am assuming that you wanted a dramatic, red, burning presentation, and it works well with this intent.

I would suggest a couple of things I observed; you used spot metering, so the image is almost certainly underexposed; I dont know what the white balance was in the original before you changed it, - was it warmer or cooler? Red and yellow are over-saturated. There is no sense of and of the Suns rays coming thought, - there are certainly areas where the cloud is thinner where the glow is brighter, and its very attractive.

So, with that in mind, I have altered the image as in the mod; the exposure is increased; the colour balance is less warm, but not cool; saturation of red and yellow are reduced such that they fill the histogram without overshooting the right hand side. The result is quite a bit different, - not necessarily better, its a personal choice.



Regards



Willie
17/04/2015 - 2:40 PM

Low Summer Sun !

Low Summer Sun !Welcome to EPZ Tyson.


This is very well done, and creative.

Exposure is quite good, and it works well as it is.

To improve it, if you want to, a few suggestions.

When shooting a brick wall, you need to be really square on, and parallel; in this image, your lens is closer to the left of the image than the right, so you have the impression of the horizontal lines tending to converge on the right.

To get a darker shdow, underexpose the shot; its good as it is, so its a tip for future images, and the shadow will be blacker. You can, if you like also so this is Photoshop or similar, and thats what Ive done in the modification I uploaded.

Scroll up, click the modifications tab to view.

Well done, and enjoy the site.


Regards


Willie
16/04/2015 - 5:00 PM

Magnolias

MagnoliasThe idea is good. I like the out of focus statue behind, it adds interest.

The image is underexposed overall, quite naturally, as you are shooting against the relatively bright sky, with a white subject.

In a case like this, its best to use exposure compensation, and set it to compensate for the inevitable underexposure, by telling the camera to overexpose, lets say +2/3.
In effect, combine the cameras decision to underexpose due to the brightness of the sky, with your own instruction to overexpose, the result is a balanced exposure.

Ive loaded a mod with the increased exposure, and left it as it would be from the camera, with the background a little too bright, but the flowers ok.

Its rotated a bit to level the base of the statue. I removed the brown leaf intruding at the top.

Compare the two. See which one you prefer. You may prefer the less bright version, but you now know how to expose for shots into the sky using exposure compensation.



Regards


Willie
15/04/2015 - 3:22 PM

End of the day

End of the dayThis is a lovely scene. It looks so peaceful.

The silhouettes of the people on the left add a lot to the image, as does the boat.

I tought it might tikted down a little on the right, but I could be wrong. I dod make it appear level anyway in the mod.



The settings look good, - you can use a smaller aperture for something like this, like f/11, but it still looks quite sharp closer to the camera.

I made the darker parts closer to black in the mods, and increased exppsure very slightly on the water, along with a little sharpening.

I would like to see more space at the bottom, under the boat, and in mod2, I cropped to a 16 X 9 format, adding space there, - see what you think.


Good work,



regards


Willie
13/04/2015 - 9:59 PM

Stones and Trees

Stones and TreesHi Bill.


Youve blended the exposure together well.

I wonder what you did to determine how to expose for the land, and also for the sky to get optimal results?

I imagine you used a tripod, so Im not sure why theres some blurring/movement in the trees at the top? Perhaps wind.

To my eyes and PS measurements, the land area is underexposed, while the sky is slightly overexposed, so to combine both seamlessly I would address that.

I think you might need to take multiple exposures, use the LCD to check, and select one of many that represents a good sky, and a good land. It can take several, rarely two.


Take a look at the mod, - it has the brighter land and darker sky.




Regards




Willie