Wow. You really are determined!..
That a lot of shots. Do you have an objective, or a logical plan in mind when you do this? It seems you are trying shutter and aperture priority modes; one of the variants you uploaded has the note that it was fairly representative of what you achieved in aperture priority mode. At the end of the day (literally) what did you learn from all those shots?
Theres a very important point made above re spot metering. For me, its to be avoided at all costs. In the years Ive been taking photos, I have never, not once, use spot metering. Thats because you use the result as a guide to set you exposure, not use what it shows you; and the spot you select is absolutely critical. So for me, best to use your LCD display; it shows you everything you ever wanted too know about your exposure, and were afraid to ask. And it tells you what you need to change. Thats your best meter. Leave the metering for 99% of the time at its default, and rely on your LCD.
In a lesson I teach in a night class, thats a full 2 hour time slot, yours for free! And the improvement in the quality of the students work is phenomenal.
If it takes this many shots to get something you like, rather than you are having a load of fun, thats a problem.
Take that aperture shot as an example. It wont mean much without the settings, aperture, shutter speed, iso, focal length (300mm likely). Most photos are shot using aperture priority mode, as that sharpness and depth of field is of paramount importance. When there is movement of the subject, you then need to ensure your shutter speed is fast enough. You can control this, while in aperture priority mode, by using you ISO settings.
Lets take the settings for this shot here as an example; and in the process, why +7/3 resulted in a darker than expected image will be clear. Lets start with that, exposure compensation. You have set the shutter speed; you have set the ISO; whats left for the old Nikon D2X to control? Aperture, - right! So, Charles says, get that exposure up by 7/3, Nikon gives it its best shot, and its stuck with the maximum aperture limit of the lens!. Its cant do it! It might have done +2/3 or +1/3, but there no way it could do +7/3. So what does it do? Opens the aperture all the way, which is very likely how it was to start with, and tells you it did apply that +7/3 by showing it on your exposure display, and in the exif. BUT, it didnt actually do anything. Its a white lie, and most or all camera will do the same thing.
Back to the image lets say you used Aperture priority; you would set this usually at least one stop below fully open, to get into the sweet spot of the lens; so lest say f/6.3. With the light the camera would see, if you didnt use spot, I would guess and that OK for this demo, that the shutter speed it would select would be around 1/15th seconds at ISO 200. So, to get that up to 1/200th you would need to get ISO up to ISO 3200. That camera doesnt go even close, so you cant do it; well, you cant do it with the available light you have here. You could use ISO400 or 800 if you had more light.
So, to me is looks like you might be using that max aperture all the time, either way. To get that +7/3, you would have need at least ISO 400.
I hope that you took some of your shots in portrait mode, - as this is how this flower would look best; and the reason its better to use portrait, apart from the fact you will likely end up cropping ti that way, is that you are dedicating the majority of the pixels to the subject.
Anyway, it is a nice shot.
This one here is underexposed (no surprise there!), and with a bit of tweaking and a square crop for me, you have a nice, though very small shot.
I notice you used a fixed K value of 4800. Thats not a bad idea, BUT theres a down side. When either auto or any of the presets are used, and when Photoshop or any other program works with white balance, theres one other twek that has to be made. Thats to control the magenta/green shift, and when setting a K, you have done half the job.
The image needs a shift away from green, towards magenta, as far as I can see. Best to use a preset, or auto if to correct it in post processing.
Mod uploaded, as per comments and a little sharpening.