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30/06/2014 - 2:52 PM


sunriseA nice morning light shot.

I think the shot needs a slight counter clockwise rotation?

You set white balance to sunny, a good idea, but I believe the light temperature would be somewhat warmer at this time than 5500K, so I have adjusted it in the mod, and also the rotation. The WB is warmer.

Exposure is under due to the bright sun in the frame, so you can increase exposure to some degree also, which Ive done. You already used the +1/3, and it looks like even more would work.

Take a look at the mod and see what you think.


30/06/2014 - 2:40 PM


WifeyYou usually upload your shot settings, so this is unusual, - you can add them in a comment.

Looks like a wide aperture, f/1.8 or f/2.

I like the idea. I see a lot of potential in the soft and dreamy effect.

It is light, meaning theres no black in the scene, and this makes it look flat. Getting black = black gives the shot some contrast and definition. It can be done easily in levels if you use the left dropper and click it on the dark area where her elbow and chest meet.

I like her expression, and find the rest more a distraction, as her head is so far to the right. I would suggest you think about a crop that focuses on her face.

I have uploaded a square crop, added that definition and detail by improving black, and then use a diffuse glow to give a soft effect. View large.

Hope this is helpful,


29/06/2014 - 4:11 PM

Historical Hall

Historical HallIts very well done with two exposures. Natural in appearance, its shows both bright and darker areas very well.

Using 18mm its difficult not to have the shot leaning back, with the bottom of the windows closer to the camera than the top without paying a lot of attention to geometry.
Its like this because the lens was tilted upwards to include the upper windows and the ceiling; not tilting would have lost the ceiling, and given you more floor, but better geometry in the windows. The ideal would be to be able to stand with the camera at the same height as the top of the lower windows, - but not feasible of course.

Tilt/Shift lenses are designed for accurate geometry, but are specialized, most of us would not possess a lens like that.

You can, if you like, do some correction in post processing. The success can depend on the software, - Photoshop Elements for example does have distortion tools, but not as advanced or accurate as the lens correction tools in Photoshop CS.

I have used CS to correct vertical perspective in the mod. Cant fault exposure and detail, all very good. Some width is lost in the correction as you can see.


26/06/2014 - 12:42 PM


hunterThis is nice, and a little different. The submerged boat provides a nice curve starting at the corner and ending in the water, before it gets to the opposite corner, as it seems to intend to do. The shape of the boat is almost predatory, which mimics the Egret quite nicely.

Shooting against the light, youve done quite well.

I would like to see more light on the bird, - and I have done this in PS using the shadow tool, and in doing so I found that a slightly warmer white balance seems to work well. I know its set to sunny, however early in the morning it can be warmer.

The bird detail is reasonably good when lightened, however you can sharpen a little more, which Ive also done.

I tried flipping the image horizontally, so it "reads" from left to right, - this can look better with some images, - see what you think.


25/06/2014 - 7:21 PM

After the Rain

After the RainIts very good. You have exactly what you wanted, the petals and the drops, in nice detail.

What it does need to get it where it needs to be is additional exposure; its a little under, and it makes a considerable difference when its increased a little, - see mod.

Beware that when in Manual mode, its not likely that using exposure compensation actually does anything apart from showing it on an indicator, as you control all the other variables. So in M mode, use the meter to push the exposure up, using wither aperture, shutter or ISO


24/06/2014 - 5:56 PM

The old crow is now a falcon!

The old crow is now a falcon!It looks like you may have deliberately gone for a particular tone in this, but Im not sure.

So, assuming you didnt, I altered the colour balance, and exposure. I might have undone what you intended, but you didnt mention if you intended a darker toned appearance.

Flipped it horizontally, and re framed. I softened the outline of the bird a little to get rid of the bright jagged edges, You can get that sometimes with too much sharpening, but it can also appear normally in a situation where there is a back or rim light on the subject.


24/06/2014 - 1:00 PM

Storm Clouds at Dusk

Storm Clouds at DuskReally beautiful Ian, The effect you have with the blue tone is excellent.

Does need a ccw rotation, about a degree. The lights on the boat on the left are a guide, the reflections need to be directly below the light and vertical. I thought about cropping space from the bottom in the mod, apart from the rotation, - nothing else.

Well done


23/06/2014 - 12:51 PM

Sunset over Rio de Janeiro

Sunset over Rio de JaneiroIts a lovely scene with gorgeous light.

I dont think the absence of a tripod or shutter speed is the issue here with a slight lack of sharpness. I can sharpen the image, - mainly the foreground sea quite easily in Photoshop.

So first make sure the re-sizing process is right, - re size to 1,000 pixels; save image as new file at MAXIMUM quality; open the new image; check and adjust sharpening, as fle compression may make the image lose detail; sharpen, save, and then upload. Did you do this?

Next, - at f/22 you can run into diffraction, which results in a softer image than you could get at say f/8 - f/11. So a poaaibility.

Then the camera is looking into the light, and you have natural diffusion occurring in the atmosphere, - this softens the image, but also gives it an attractive mood.

When you combine f/22 with the direction of the light/camera, you are likely to have a relatively soft image. But one that does respond well to a small amount of sharpening in post processing, - as in the mod. I didnt crop, - just rotated a little to level it.

Hope this is helpful,


23/06/2014 - 12:31 PM

Clinging together

Clinging togetherIts a well done shot. Nice detail and focus, especially for them floating.

It is nice to include the environmet, especially when its aoft like this.

Try using the actual light conditio9ns for white balance rather than auto if you shoot JPEG.

I will take a look at the colour temp and upload a mod if it looks different.


22/06/2014 - 5:31 PM


BelgradeFirstly, its a nice shot. detailed and sharp and I love those lamps and bare trees disappearing into the distance.

Its also quite odd for a few reasons. You would expect the camera, faced with snow, and a large expanse of white sky, would underexpose, and requite a positive correction. And you did apply +1/3.

When I look at the image in Photoshop, with the highlight overexpose indicators on, its overexposed only the very slightest bit, along the sides of buildgins, but not the top of the fountain, and not the sky! So strictly technically it does not qualify as over exposed.

However, the bright areas are VERY bright, and will benefit with highlight reduction, as would any image. When I apply a -0.5 exposure correction, all those minor highlight spots disappear; I can only conclude that the camera, with the scene it was facing, did an excellent job on exposure all on its own.

The mod I uploaded has had all highlights reduced using the shadow/highlight tool in CS6, set to about -13. Thats the only change Ive made, and it looks quite good I think.


22/06/2014 - 4:34 PM

Rocky road

Rocky roadNice piece of the rock formation of the Giants Causeway there.

You can edit yesterdays upload Billy and correct the number of years quite easily.

I hope this slip up didnt cause any friction!

The mod has white balance set to sunny, - you should give it a try, just set white balance to whatever the light needs. Auto can make it blue, as it has done here.

regards. and Happy 45th

22/06/2014 - 1:48 PM

What are you looking at

What are you looking atYes, nice pose, and for me, an unusual bird perhaps. Looks like an inspector critically examining something. Perhaps one of us!

In general, a dark bird or subject against a brighter background = +2/3 or +1 exposure compensation, so my main feedback is exposure, - increase it. This helps the bird become more dominant against the background.

Ive done this in the mod, +2/3, and to be realistic, its applied across the entire image and not only the bird to give an idea what the shot would look like with positive compensation.

I like the positioning, but would prefer (it works where it is) if the empty sace was on the side where the inspector is looking, the left. This is also done in the mod, - and the crop is narrower.

Looking at earlier shots, you may like the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens, - very inexpensive and very sharp with super shallow depth of field. Not a macro, but a wonderful lens for the price. The Canon 60mm makes a decent macro, though the Canon 100mm, or the Tamron 90mm, the Sigma 105mm are all very good options.

Hope this helps,


21/06/2014 - 2:59 PM

Stick Insect

Stick InsectIts a very decent close up Ishan.

Green is interesting. The human eye is around twice as sensitive to shades of green and yellow green, peaking at green, than the red or blue spectrum. The digital camera uses a Bayer Filter array to produce R, G and B, and theres also twice as many green filters in the array than the others, - similar to the eye.

Some camera get a little too excited by green, and the software people make it ultra green thinking its more pleasing to the eye for compact cameras.

Its thought that we are most sensitive to the green/yellow spectrum as a result of evolution, where the ability to see predators in green environments.

Anyway, - this is a good example of green gone mad. Its way over-saturated, - just the green, - the other channels are OK.

Ive uploaded a screenshot from Photoshop showing the green channel before, and after adjusting green saturation, reducing it by -10.

The Ive uploaded the resulting mod with a crop. I have done no other alterations other than reduce green. Isnt it amazing!

You should be able to measure R, G and B separately in your software.

Hope this helps,


21/06/2014 - 2:07 PM

Dog Rose

Dog RoseThis is an image that the processing you use seems to suit quite well. There a commercial plug-in filter called Wyeth that does something similar, but not quite the same.

You are correct of course about the possibility of the subject moving, which makes me wonder why you didnt use Shutter priority, and set it to a faster speed? Maybe next time?

Once you are using Aperture priority, and you have fixed the ISO, when you use -1, the camera then can only work with the shutter speed. So -1 makes it faster.

You can still continue with Aperture priority if you prefer, and use ISO to increase shutter speed, ISO 400 here would give you 1/200th or so which may compensate for the subject movement.

The opposite could work too, deliberately using a slower speed and allowing the camera to capture the movement of the subject in the wind, - this can often have very nice results, but you need more wind I think.


20/06/2014 - 5:12 PM

Istanbul Rising- 6

Istanbul Rising- 6I like the direction your going with the tall new construction.

The previous shot used a much wider angle, and the curve of the building made it a more graceful shot. There was a reason you used a longer focal length for this Im sure.

Agree with Moira, you cloned a bit on the left ahst not tidy. Do you need any help or adice with this, and the technique? I notice the remnants of a post, ot a pole that perhaps ypu worked on, - let us know. You can add the pre cloned version so we can take a look.

Anyway, its still an architectural shot, and its perfectly vertical where it should be, - those crane cables are an excellent reference.

What needs attention is white balance, - if you learn one thing from the team, dont use Auto WB unless you intend to correct it as a RAW shot. It will usually make a warm scene cool, as its done here. Set it ti the actual light conditions for a much more accurate tone. I think the light at 8:24 AM in Istanbul would be quite a warm glow. Im also surprised that the +1, which is a good decision still has the scene a little underexposed. It looks like it needed +1.6 or so. Keep an eye on the meter in the LCD to check.

I have tweaked this in the mod, as well as the cloning; it becomes a more balanced composition if I crop it to a vertical 16 X 9, by adding some space on the left.

Take a look ad see what you think.


20/06/2014 - 1:01 PM


orangeThis is very nice. An attractive shot, good focus on the main flower with fly, and I especially like how the upper lighter background has formed that circular bokeh. This is a really good result from that lens. You were limited with how close you could be, and youve found the perfect distance.

You have received feedback on cropping, and this is of course connected to composition. It takes time to learn the concept of odd numbers, - I certainly didnt not know anything about this at the beginning, but when you try it, you can see it does help.

You decided to use -1 when exposing; one thing to keep in mind before deciding on exposure compensation is that the cameras meter will already take a bright background like this into consideration when you start; so reducing exposure is actually reducing even more than the camera has already dont on its own; so in general, - and by no means a hard rule, shooting subjects like this with a bright background needs either no exposure compensation, or a + EC to ensure the subject is not underexposed. The main subjects is a little underexposed, - but it actually works quite well. The mod I will upload has the flower exposed a little more.

The decision to use Manual white balance is the right decision, auto is often wrong, especially in warm light.

For me a square crop works well, and can make a very nice print. With a square crop, the subject also works well in the centre.

I have performed minor tweaks, - exposure is one, reducing the saturation of red and yellow is another (over saturation can cause loss of detail).

Mod2 is a framed version of mod 1

Hope you find this helpful,


20/06/2014 - 2:06 AM

Just another yellow field.

Just another yellow field.A nice shot.

Uploaded a mod; its quite similar to Ishans actually apart from the crop. Its a 10 X 8; colour temp is warmer; yellow saturation is lower.


19/06/2014 - 4:44 PM

Waiting to sail

Waiting to sailWelcome to EPZ Mile. You are the second person from Brazil Ive seen as new member today, - perhaps you are looking to get away from football!

I hope you enjoy our community of photographers.

This is a very nice shot. Your camera setting look good. That bright line at the edge of the sea suggests the image is not level, but it is level when the ships masts are used, so its fine; the harbour is probably curved.

When I download the image and look at it in Photoshop, I would like to brighten the lower area a little, - especially that cover on the left boat. Doing this gives a little more contrast too in the lower section.

Its helpful for us also if you upload the colour version, - you can do this by clicking the modifications tab (where you will also see my modifications), then Upload Modification and select your original colour. It helps us assess the mono conversion process, and we can perhaps give you some tips.

The position of the boats gives you an opportunity also to create more than one image if you use square crops, and a bit of filling in Photoshop.

I have performed the tweaks as mentions in the mods; Ive uploaded the original, and then two square crops that you might like.

Enjoy the site


19/06/2014 - 2:11 PM


Close-up...This is a very good example of a long exposure shot. Its sharp, well focused and detailed.

When I download it and look at the histogram in Photoshop, it measures underexposed, but its not a lot. I did increase exposure a little bit in the mod.

Reds often become over saturated, and I reduced red by -8 in the mod (used the saturation tool, selected red, applied -8). Its all sounds like very minor tweaking, - which it is, but look at the mod large. You will notice it appears sharper, even though I have not used any sharpening. This is because reds have been reduced!

Well done.


18/06/2014 - 3:51 PM

Silky way

Silky wayYour objective in this shot is apparently about making the subject significant.

The feedback you received, and including what I will say here, indicate to the observers that there is not real subject; and if the subject is intended to be that hill, you have made it considerably less significant than it needs to be.

The reviewers are fully aware of what high-key is, and how youve used it here.

With this shot, and the previous shot, you appears to discount any feedback, - respectfully certainly, but still its discounted.

The intention of the Critique Gallery is to impart some knowledge and learning to photographers who have a willingness to learn. As you are developing your own particular style, involving significant alterations and over-use of filters, for which any feedback appears irrelevant, perhaps the general gallery is a better place to post your images.

If you wish to continue, think about uploading an original untouched version of your shot. Its with that we can see whats you have done with the camera, and then we can see what you have done with photoshop (or whatever you use) and comment on your original. Its rather futile to comment on the over processed versions that you clearly prefer.

The Critique Team are volunteers who commit a lot of time to this gallery; when you upload to it, there is a link that takes you to a list of items we will do, and that we expect from you in other to make a cooperative effort worthwhile for BOTH of us.

I will download this and perhaps upload a mod later with comments.