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Moto cross

brendish > Gallery > Moto cross

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A shot taken at a nearby track then added radial blur to photo then used eraser to sharpen the image

Brand:Canon
Camera:Canon EOS 600D
Lens:15-85
Recording media:JPEG (digital)
Date Taken:5 Jun 2011 - 10:34 AM
Focal Length:51mm
Aperture:f/5.6
Shutter Speed:1/800sec
Exposure Comp:0.0
ISO:125
Exposure Mode:Action (High speed)
Metering Mode:Multi-segment
Flash:Off, Did not fire
Title:Moto cross
Username:brendish brendish
Uploaded:29 Mar 2012 - 11:21 AM
Tags:Sports / action
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Comments

DRicherby
29 Mar 2012 - 12:32 PM
0

Welcome to the critique gallery!

The blur has certainly made for an exciting shot but I think you can do better. Let's go back to the start. I assume you picked this photo because you felt it had potential and I agree with that choice -- the bike is well positioned, with plenty of space to move into and it's dramatically 'posed' with one of the wheels (maybe even both) off the ground. But there must have been something missing or you probably wouldn't have felt the need to edit it much.

You edited it to give the feeling of speed and I think that's exactly what was missing in the original. Shooting at 1/800s has completely frozen the motion of the bike and I imagine that the original shot looked very, very static. Editing after the fact is one way to fix that but the bike itself still looks pretty static, with no evidence that the wheels are turning, for example. You could try to fix that with more Photoshop but I'd recommend trying to capture the speed with the camera.

To do that, you need a much slower shutter speed and you need to pan with the bike as it moves. That way, the bike itself will be still, the background will blur from the movement of the camera and the wheels will blur because they're turning. What shutter speed to use is a matter of experience. I'm going to guess at something in the range of 1/60s to 1/30s but somebody who knows more about this specific kind of photography might be able to give a better guide. Put the camera in shutter priority (Tv) mode and select the shutter speed you want. If your lens has IS, turn that off, or set it to 'mode 2' if it doesn't auto-detect panning. Set continuous shooting mode and use AI autofocus to track the bike.

Beware that this is difficult and requires a lot of practise. Don't be surprised if you end up with a memory card that contains 90% garbage the first time you try this. Start off at the faster end of the shutter speed range to make your life easier while you learn. As you start to get a higher proportion of good shots, slow the shutter if you want more blur. The good news is that the same technique works with any moving object; you just need to adjust the shutter speed according to the speed of movement and the degree of blur you want.

Dave.

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29 Mar 2012 - 1:11 PM

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mhfore
6
England161 Constructive Critique Points
29 Mar 2012 - 1:11 PM
0

Hi Mike,

You have certainly added a feeling of zooming into the object and if that's the effect you were after then well done. Mike I would have thought you could also try "Motion Blur" this will give you a type of panning feeling which as explained by Dave is not the easiest thing to achieve without practice. You may or may not have looked at motion blur but add it in the same way as radial, set the amount and rotate the dial to get the direction you want and then erase it from selected areas.

Take care
Martin

Hi Mike,

I think that Dave has probably summed it up with his assumption above.
However, your use of added blur here has, I think, worked well. The bike does look a little static and that could be addressed, if you felt like it but overall, you've achieved what you set out to do.
It's my guess that the bike's completely off of the ground and the dark patch beneath it is its shadow.
I think that the slanting horizon looks good (although, no doubt, someone will be along in a minute and tell you that you can't do it) and in this instance, I don't think that you need a bright blue sky either.
I rather like it!
Hope this helps.

Bren.

Sooty_1
Sooty_1 (Critique Team)
2
964 forum posts United Kingdom162 Constructive Critique Points
29 Mar 2012 - 2:40 PM
0

Dave gives some good advice there.

The only thing not really mentioned yet, is the excessive contrast and saturation, which has not helped the sky either. These events tend to have bright colours on the bikes and riders' overalls, so pushing the saturation and contrast makes it look very unnatural and can rob the image of some of it's detail.

I would have used as low an ISO as I could, an aperture of f/11 - f/16 and a shutter speed of 1/60 - 1/125 sec. If still too bright, I would add a polariser which can lose you up to 2 stops but add to the colour saturation in camera (or an ND2, which won't help saturation), . This would have enabled me to juggle the exposure settings for sharp shots and pan shots as required.

Nick

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