Login or Join Now

Upload your photos, chat, win prizes and much more

Username:
Password:
Remember Me

Can't Access your Account?

New to ePHOTOzine? Join ePHOTOzine for free!

Join Now

Join ePHOTOzine, the friendliest photography community.

Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more for free!

Connect to User

loading

Davesumner's Activity

Davesumner > Davesumner's Activity

Quick Stats

Stats are refreshed every 24 hours
Photos:144
Forum Topics:5
Forum Comments:33
Photo Comments:1275
Competition Entries: 16
Modification Uploaded: 540
Remember!

Remember! by AndyHale

Ah the good old 'Out of Bounds' technique but perhaps not quite the right image to test it on. There is a very good tutorial on this very technique by Gavin Hoey somewhere here on EPZ.

Here you go: http://www.ephotozine.com/photography-videos/video/out-of-bounds-effect-in-photo...

My attempt is HEREHERE anks

DaVeS

Leaning Tower, Vertical Cathedral

Leaning Tower, Vertical Cathedral by SkySkape

So am I right in assuming that from the comments above, you take the lens off your camera and hold it in front at an angle instead of it being attached to get some sort of tilt and shift result or am I totally wrong?

I have never heard of free lensing but, if I am right then stick to the perspective tool in Photoshop or invest in a tilt and shift lens if these are the results you getting.

Hot Update - I looked it up on Professor Google and I'm bang on. I would suggest that free lensing was invented by a sales executive from a camera company to get sales targets up on new cameras rather than for an actual realistic results. If you want my two penneth, frame your shot, zoom out to create more space around the subject and then go wild with the perspective tool. Photoshop is relatively cheap compared to replacing broken lenses and damaged sensors.

One thing that does puzzle me is that if you use tilt and shift or lensing to get the perspective right on buildings etc. why on earth would you test it on the Leaning Tower of Pisa that will only ever be straight when it falls over, which it will?

Thanks

DaVeS

Brisbane at Night

Brisbane at Night by Broodhound

Looking at the camera model and the exposure time of 2 seconds I would suspect that you didn't use a tripod at all and that you've tried to handhold this. Was this taken from the Ferris wheel or are you further along by the footbridge? From memory that is the footbridge but I'm not sure, am I right? As Willie has said you need to take shots like this at dusk and not really at night time. However, you're never going to get a sharp shot without a tripod or a firm support such as a bean bag or the likes especially if you are handholding on the Ferris wheel. Some of the smaller Gorilla Pods work well with compact cameras and with the flexible legs they can be wrapped around balcony rails etc. As for exposing for the brightest part of the image, I would agree but not the lights, expose for the brighter parts of the roadway bridge across the river. The lights on the buildings and signs etc, you will have to accept that they will blow out (overexpose) unless you are prepared to do some multiple exposures.

Hope this helps

DaVeS

Splash Man

Splash Man by Tonyd3

Very nice, I like the effect, well done

DaVeS

Perching

Perching by Lulukirk

Hi louise,

Great try but I feel you were a bit up against it with the light looking at the birds overexposed white breast and the dark background. I think the culprit here is the multi segment metering which has probably looked at the background and set the exposure accordingly which ultimately lead to the white breast being overexposed because the camera could not capture the entire tonal range in this scene. With shots like this you have to take the circumstances as they are because you can't change the background easily and you certainly can't ask the bird to move. With this in mind I always have my camera set to spot metering and I only use the centre point to focus. The technique I use is as follows and this is especially relevant for seabirds:

When I see a subject, I can't always select my background, lighting circumstances or the amount of time the subject will remain in position, I therefore have to grab the iniatial shot or two as quickly as possible and then try and improve it the situation allows for it. With a shot like yours the first thing I would do is fire off a couple of shots, the main priority being focus. If after the initial shots, the subject still remains I will then look for anything that is white or bright in the scene especially white feathers, I then spot meter on that area and use exposure lock to keep that exposure. I then recompose and take more shots which are probably going to be a better exposure for the highlights than the first two. You have to remember that the background isn't really of any relevance at this point and is probably going to be out of focus anyway so exposure and sharpness of the subject are the main priorities. Usually and especially if the light is bright, the rest of the image will be a little underexposed but that is okay because we can usually lighten this in post production but if we overexpose any part of the image we normally cannot get anything back in those areas because there is no detail left in overexposed areas.

Also with your composition, it is definately better to have the subject on a third with the wider part of the image for it to look into. Unfortunately, even though this bird is actually looking at you sideways, as humans we just naturally assume the the position the head is facing is the way the bird is looking.

I did a quick mod where I added space on the left, adjusted levels and sharpened to show you what I meant.

I'm happy to explain in more detail in a PM if you need it.


I hope this helps

Bare tree

Bare tree by dunda66

Hi David,

Welcome to EPZ and especially to the Critique area. As you have seen by the two comments above, you will get some great advice here but if you do find it good advice, don't forget to nominate it as 'good critique' as I have done with them.

Just to elaborate a little more on Frank and Willies comments above in regards to sharpness, I don't see anything sharp in the entire image. Now this could be for a number of reasons but one thing to watch out for is the use of focussing modes and focus points. Now i'm not sure with Nikon cameras because they all seem to be different to me but you will get best results from a shot like this if you are in a non dynamic focussing mode such as AF-S. I believe the D40 has a new AF-A focus setting as well but I'm not sure how that works. What this means is that when you half press the shutter, it locks in the focus and it stays locked as long as you keep the shutter half pressed. However, if your camera is using multiple focus points you will find that it may focus on something closer than the tree and make the tree blurred which you obviously don't want. To avoid this and to take control of what is happening, I always use a single focus point (usually the centre one) to ensure that what I focus on is what I want sharp. Once you focus on the tree, as long as you half press the shutter, it won't matter where you point the camera, the tree will be sharp.

now if you are attempting to blur the background in your messing around with focus, this is controlled by the aperture of the lens with the focal length, distance to subject and distance from subject to background all playing their part in how this works. This is covered in depth of field and expalnations of this can be found all over the internet.

I hope this helps

DaVeS

North Beach Tenby

North Beach Tenby by chrisheathcote

Hi Chris,

Great critique above from Willie and I second his comments about the image being small, try using the panoramic option next time you upload a shot like this.

I did a quick mod myself because on first look the image seems flat which is generally a lack of contrast and adjusting levels/curves normally sorts this out but I liked the darker sky and thought the image would look better with the buildings standing out more. Therefore, in my mod I have darkened off the sky using the graduated filter tool in Adobe Camera RAW, adjusted the levels but then masked out the sea and sky from the levels adjustement in Photoshop. I then dodged the buildings and sand, the island and headland followed by some slight colour adjustment and sharpening.

I hope this helps

DaVeS

January

January by Ploughman

Hi Richard,

I think a 12 shot montage or the likes would be a very good idea although you would need to marke the tripod etc so you get the same shot everytime, you could then use Proshow Producer or the like to create a slideshow to some music with the twelve images.

For me though, I would have picked a better composition that this, yes you need to show a building in case it snows or something but I would find and old barn in afield or something and not those typical 50s houses you have on the left of the image. The field is good but what about some trees at the front as foreground interest or a fence or something? Also i would talk with the farmer and tell them what you intend because if he leaves that field dormant for a year you'll end up with a quite dull non changing field. I would think that you should have as many elements as possible in the image to show the changing conditions.

My suggestion would be to take more than twelve images though, why not take one per day for a year and then run through that in a quick slideshow?

Hope this helps

DaVeS

Flight

Flight by handlerstudio

It's a nice shot and a good capture, I would be almost tempted to crop off the other bird and desaturate the green tree a little. I'll havea go at a mod tomorrow and see if i can show you what I mean.

DaVeS

Time and Tide, Sandsend Dawn 2

Time and Tide, Sandsend Dawn 2 by phil99

Phil,

I haven't read any of the other replies but I have a lot of experience with camera club judges and if the UK one's are anything like the Aussie judges, take no notice. most camera club judges are so full of technical bullshit they forget to look at the images artistic merit at all. Why on earth would you crop that image?

For e.g. at my local club someone had entered an image of a golfer on a green with all the trees behind them had been pruned right down to the trunk. Not a great image but the image was intended as a bit of fun. The image was titled 'No Birdies Here' and the judge completey missed it.

Look for yourself HERE

I rest my case, so keep going with the image and treat camera club judges with the contempt that they earn themselves.

DaVeS

Winter sat on the fence

Winter sat on the fence by Notters1

Hi Ryan,

This is a really well seen shot, the snow on the fence coupled with the shadows makes for a pleasant image. The only problem I have with it are the composition and the overall blue tint. With the composition I feel that there is just a bit too much sky and the shot could be cropped a little more panoramic. Secondly is the blue tint which although it has a feeling of the cold and a lot of people like this, it isn't really what you would have seen when you looked at this with your eyes.

I have uploaded a quick mod with a crop and the white balance adjusted to give you a comparison.

Hope it helps

DaVeS

Stormy Waters

Stormy Waters by AndrewCee

Andrew,

A quick question, did you have VR switched on or off with the camera presumably on a tripod? Sometimes VR or IS on Canon will give you blurred shots when used on a tripod, switch it off and use a remote shutter release or the self timer to reduce movement.

DaVeS

Sea Eagle

Sea Eagle by FionaB

Fiona,

I really love this shot but i just wish its eye was a touch brighter, otherwise a very good effort indeed.

DaVeS

Watchful Dawn

Watchful Dawn by iancrowson


Quote: but you could try and just lighten up the front woodwork on the lifeguard tower just a tad

I agree so I've uploaded a mod to show this

DaVeS

Reflections

Reflections by tamasalucy

Hi Simon,

Obviously by your description you are not happy with the results and there are a number of factors against you here with your choice of lens etc. However, before I talk about any of that, the biggest problem is that you've stuck on your signature/name right over the most interesting area of the image. Put signatures on the back of the print or in a border, don't ruin your image with it especially putting your name on an image you're not happy with.

First of all is the composition, you've taken it in portrait mode obviously to capture the reflection and there is nothing wrong with that but it restricts the scene and bear in mind the absolute majority of landscapes are taken in landscape mode. Your positioning of the windmill isn't the best either as in my opinion it is at the wrong side, i would have preferred it on the left third of the image. Also the background isn't sharp and this is largely due to the aperture used which is f/4 according to the exif data. I can see why because the shutter speed is down to 1/50th second and if you had used f/16 you'd have been down to about 1/4 second or so and that isn't hand holdable. So the first thing is, use tripod for landscapes so you can use smaller apertures and then the shutter speed doesn't matter. Also longer lenses tend to have shallower depths of field which also doesn't help with landscapes and even though you have used the lens at 70mm, this is a veritable telephoto in landscape terms.

When shooting landscapes it often doesn't pay to walk around looking for them, you have to be there when the light and sky are right so it often means finding a great spot and returning several times over. Use a tripod, a wide lens with a narrow aperture and be patient. Don't forget your elements in the shot, foreground, middle and background which you have managed okay in this shot. Set up for your shot and wait until conditions are right then take lots of images with differing settings to get the shot you want.

The shot here has come out flat and needs contrast to give it some punch, I have uploaded a quick mod where I added fill light and contrast in Camera RAW, adjusted levels in Photoshop and then added colour and sharpened.

Hope this helps

DaVeS

Rock Steady

Rock Steady by Lulukirk

Hi Lulu,

just thought I'd have a go at quick mod myself, pretty much the same crop as Nick but i've adjusted the white balance and tweaked the colours a little. I also didn't crop out as many boats.

I know it isn't always possible and sometimes you have only a few seconds to grab a shot but try to take images like this in less harsh sunlight, you've got some harsh shadows going on in this shot. Also just be a bit mindful about where you place your foreground interest in your images, this one is too central.

Hope this helps

DaVeS

TopicDate Contibuted
6D vs 5D2 any thoughts ?04/01/2013 - 5:39 AM
The Zoo25/08/2010 - 9:25 AM
new to site....need some advice on a comment about focus25/08/2010 - 9:19 AM
Metering help.25/08/2010 - 9:07 AM
how do you accept critique?25/08/2010 - 9:01 AM
The Critique Gallery22/08/2010 - 1:17 PM

No portfolios comments on yet.