I would rather have this lens. 120-300mm.

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Oh---I get it. Ill pull my video and spare your pain.

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Here is a simple video I shot on how to hold and shoot with a camera to minimize camera shake. Try to shoot at 1/60th of a second shutter speed or higher if possible. 1/250th or higher is the optimal speed for shooting more crisp images. Add image stabilization and you will get
Sharper images. Shoot Sharper images

Happy Shooting!

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I was just thinking that using a Sony Nex camera with a flip out screen would allow you to hold the camera at your waist level, look down into the pulled out screen and shoot. Any of the Sony SLT camera with the flip out screens would work as well. I know you are used to looking through a viewfinder, but this might be something you can get used to. That way, you are not holding the camera up--forcing your arms to be raised putting pressure on your shoulders. It is worth a try. Goodluck to you.

Take care.

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I've been shooting with Sigma's OS stabilized lenses for some time and own over 20+ Sigma lenses. I have yet to experience a back or front focusing issue. I know this is an issue, but am not sure it is a Sigma lens issue but the Camera manufacturer's variation in its quality control on its lower models. I've never experienced this problem with my high end pro Canons. That being said, you have the option of sending the lens and camera into Sigma UK and have them calibrate the lens to your specific camera. I'm in the U.S.A. and Sigma USA does this at no charge. Can't speak for Sigma UK. I shoot with top of the line Canon lenses with OS and these lenses do the same thing that the Sigma lenses do in terms of stabilization. I have some cheaper kit lenses from Canon and these lenses' OS behave exactly the same as the more expensive ones. Most of the higher end cameras have the ability to adjust focus + or - to address focusing accuracy. In addition, Sigma's newest lens lines have the ability to hook the lens up to a USB port and to adjust that lens to your specific camera which I believe is the best solution. But in response to the OP's post--the description of your experience is exactly the experience I have with my Sigma lenses with OS.

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Quote: Recently suffered an injury to my right shoulder that means I now have limited strength in the right arm and can no long lift the arm to hold my DSLR, although I can just about manage a compact so long as it has an eye piece as I can't hold the camera out to view the LCD screen. Unfortunately this situation is permanent and not likely to improve, as a result have not been able to take any pics for the last 6 months and am getting increasingly frustrated. Have been experimenting with tripod and monopod as a means of holding the camera with limited success for the type of photography I like - namely air shows and nature. Had some success using the DSLR on a tripod with live view for static subjects but not ideal for the sort of photography I want to do, also carrying a heavy camera bag tripod etc is also out of the question.

Anyone out there had a similar experience who can offer some tips - workrounds, equipment, etc?

Many thanks.

There are some work-a-rounds for you from the videography world. There are harnesses etc. Here is a simple innexpensive solution from HoodmanUsa. Its called the wrist shot. You put it on your good arm and it holds a camera for you, allowing you to trip the shutter with your other arm. http://www.hoodmanusa.com/products.asp?dept=1060 This might be a solution for you if you have one good arm and shoulder. You might have to get used to shooting with the other eye etc.

There are other harnesses that you can wear using your body as a tripod, that puts the camera right in front of your face as well from the film/videography world. Tripods are cumbersome for me and I have injuries to both shoulders plus a neuromuscular disease which makes me weaker than I should be. I don't let being technically 100 percent disabled stop me from pursuing my work as a photographer. I refuse to let anything hold me back. Take your time and find the right solution to adapt your camera for your needs. I have problems with my eyes now due to the neuromuscular thing, so I use a hoodman loop on the back of my LCD which magnifies the image. I had to move to shooting with a Sony A77 because it has a focus peaking function that aid one during manual focus. It also has image stabilization built in that helps me get more keepers and best of all, face recognition that helps me nail shots when I'm shooting portraits of someone. I just teach the camera to recognize the face of the model with the first test shot, then shoot away. It works! There are so many solutions out there that you can use to take advantage and keep on shooting! Whatever your situation, you can make it better. Good luck to you.

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