I can't be precise but the pale-toned car 2nd from left appears to be a Jaguar Mk 1 or Mk2. The Mk 1 appeared in 1955, so the late 1950s would be consistent with the presence in the centre of the group of a Morris Minor 1000 and an elderly Ford Anglia van. The black car in front looks rather like a Wolsely 6/90, typically used by the police Flying Squads in the 50s.
Hope this helps!
Bill

In Off-topic discussion

Hello Pascal!

The Mrs and I both feel that the recent low level of participation has been mostly due to inclement weather. People have felt little inclined to go out into the gloom; on the odd occasion when the light has improved the subject matter has not been forthcoming.
Also the suggested topics have been rather specific; more general topics, such as Spirals, have elicited a wider response.
Perhaps something like Natural Curves, Right Angles, Natural Distortion (e.g. reflections/shadows but no LB ) might appeal?

Bill & Moira

In Group Chat | Page: 1, 2

Genuine brain-racking topic this one - and I speak as a bear of very little brain.* I'm sure a sequence of my father's output from the 1930s-1960s wouldn't fit the bill even though it would portray the Woolybill . . .


*explanation can be supplied on request since Disney pap seems to have replaced the original in most peoples' minds

In Group Chat

Not having a full-frame camera I can't comment on LB effects with one, though I understand the LB was originally conceived for full-frame. The ultra wide at least gives cropped-sensor users something wider than a telephoto to use (I discount the 'normal' LB 'wide' optic) but you can't bend it very much without vignetting.

The fisheye is a lot of fun on APS-C but no substitute for a real circular fisheye, not that I have one. It does give the opportunity to get really close and inclusive. But it requires f11 for acceptable sharpness across the frame: compare f4 and f11. The vignetting is far from total on APS-C, though it can be encouraged in software.

In Group Chat

Composer - double glass - single glass - plastic optic - zone plate/pinhole - 0.42x super-wide attachment - fisheye. Those in bold form my usual LB kit, with the Composer attached to my old D70 (no real need for 12MP when I'm deliberately messing with the definition).

The pinhole is not really usable without a tripod, not my preferred companion for general photography. At f144 it is particularly difficult to focus through the viewfinder; it's simplest to focus in zone-plate mode before moving the slider across, though care must be taken to hold the focusing ring with the other hand.

I received the following comment on this LB pinhole attempt from MickS, who has experimented with most photographic media:


Quote: Pin-hole? whatever they call it on the box, it ain't pin-hole; I think Lensbaby has a lot of work to do to get the pin-hole effect. One of the main qualities of PH is that the tiny apperture gives almost unlimited D of F and pin sharpness at the central area, it then falls off to the edges, just about every PH pic I've seen, and taken, follows that formula, although it ain't carved in stone

Since then I have not used the optic in question, simply because I can't fit more in the bag! When I have a suitable subject I'll go back to it.
By contrast, the Zone Plate gives a rather dreamy, soft effect (but not unsharp); I am not totally convinced that I need the Soft Focus optic when I already have this, except that it's undoubtedly faster; I don't shoot many portraits!

While I am a great fan of the LB I am also the first to admit that it's an acquired taste. By and large this Group appreciates the LB, which I applaud. But it is a means to an end, not an end in itself: a fast 50mm lens is a cheaper option. I have both, but then I'm nuts

In Group Chat | Page: 1, 2

I think I'll be avoiding the forums even more in future.

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2

Hi Ian - Sorry for the late reply, but I seldom look at the forums.
I haven't seen very much mention of the most important part of the camera yet - the lens. You'll be looking at a kit lens, i.e. as supplied with the camera. My understanding is that the Nikon 18-55mm is the pick of the bunch, in either the normal or the VR (anti-shake) version. It does seem as though you're inclined that way already, though. Just bear in mind the point about heavier lenses overbalancing lighter bodies - the D40/D40x/D60 were designed to take the 18-55 and the 55-200 (another lightweight sweetie of a lens).

Oh, and I remember Campkins advertising in Amateur Photographer in the 1970s - good to know they are still around and professional as ever.

Bill

In Digital cameras | Page: 1, 2 ...11, 12

Hi Dave - you may wish to try this method of adding a simple frame:

Once your photo is edited

- Go to Image > Resize > Canvas Size

- In the box that appears, change New Size to Pixels and uncheck the box marked Relative

- Increase the pixel size by the size of frame you want (e.g. my photo coordinates are 3008 x 2000 pixels, so to give a15-pixel frame all round I alter this to 3038 x 2030 (add 30 to each dimension).

- Select a canvas extension colour (b/w/grey are given, or select your own from 'Other'), then check the box.

- Finally click OK, and your picture will appear with the chosen colour surround.

This is just for simple surrounds; when you upload to e2 remember to choose a complementary colour background so your frame appears! No idea how to do more complicated ones, but one step at a time for me!

Hope this helps. I found it whilst browsing a magazine and managed to remember it till I got home!

Best of luck,
Bill

In Digital imaging | Page: 1, 2 ...11, 12

Hey presto! And all of a sudden I'm the one who can't keep up with the site. Fingers crossed........

In ePHOTOzine discussion

Since today's site maintenance:
- 3 minutes from first click to successful login;
- average 2 minutes to load Gallery page/open single image/access this forum.
All other sites, e.g. bbc news/bank/etc. instantaneous.
Last night (sorry, no time to read all intervening pages of this thread) unable to access at all for 5 hours.
Am still considering e2, but...

In ePHOTOzine discussion | Page: 1, 2 ...24, 25

Hello Paul,
Perhaps I might try a couple of general pointers to correct exposure. I'll stick to some basics and assume that you can leave focus to its own devices for the moment.

Essentially the relationship between shutter speed and aperture is fundamental. Using your camera in Aperture priority, setting your widest aperture (assume kit zoom lens f3.5) will force the camera to use a high shutter speed, so as you reduce the aperture (f4/f5.6/f8/f11 etc) the camera will automatically reduce the speed. Using Shutter priority operates the same system beginning with the speed rather than the aperture. If you set the aperture the camera will set the speed, and vice-versa.

For a classic landscape (remember this is a huge generalisation!) the narrower (smaller) the aperture the better, in order to keep everything in focus. Use aperture priority and something like f16. However, this will demand a slow shutter speed, so you will probably need to use a tripod. As a rule of thumb, any speed longer than 1/60th second is too slow for hand-held. For a classic portrait, look to f4/f5.6 and remember to focus on the eyes. You don't necessarily want everything in focus, especially if you're using an old white sheet as a background!

Use shutter priority when you need to 'stop the action'. Older books on photography used to give sample speeds such as 1/60th for somebody walking, 1/125th for a runner, 1/500th for a car. As you increase the shutter speed the aperture opens up; ultimately you will be operating fully open and have to increase the ISO to compensate.

I have no experience of Canon DSLRs so can't comment on shutter lag. But delay in the shutter firing should not contribute to camera shake (unless you tremble with panic) - it's the length of time the shutter is open which counts!

The settings you have mentioned are essentially pre-programmed; 1/60th at f4 sounds good for a portrait - but did it really need a flash? Setting aperture priority will give you the choice; setting portrait mode won't.

Relying on the camera's automation at the start can help you to learn about lens angles, zooming, composition and focus, but unless you start to apply an understanding of apertures and shutter speeds you will find it difficult to progress creatively. Rather than using the pre-programmed modes, experiment with aperture and shutter priority and see what results!

I hope this is of some use, if you have managed to read to the end! One last thing: at wider angles (18mm on you kit zoom I expect) you can usually get away with a slower shutter speed; using a longer lens (e.g. 100mm upwards) demands a faster speed, or a tripod.

I wish you all the best; and whatever you do, keep shooting!
Bill

In Beginner Photographers | Page: 1, 2 ...24, 25

Having started out without any manipulation software I created my own filing system and was amazed when first using Picasa that it immediately sorted the files in its own fashion, mainly by treating sub-folders as primary folders. It had a go at sorting things by date, too, and made an awful hash.

When I bought PSE5 I decided not to use the Organiser at all, as I reckoned it would try to do a Picasa but differently. It's a bit of a pain when saving versions as it assumes that they will be saved in Organiser; but then, that only means remembering to uncheck one box.

Now I'm using Vista Home Premium, and the bundled Windows software is having a go at sorting things all on its own! I'm just ignoring it, though one rainy afternoon I might experiment.

I think if PSE5 has done the job for you and you're happy using it, stick with it. It's a great resource. You might end up in a mess if you use too many manufacturers' software. Imagine them all conflicting! But do you really need all those tags? Remember that, just as your best zoom lens is your feet, your best memory is in your head!

In Computers

Sorry this is so late - I rarely read the forum - but you might also try Picasa which seems to read everything from tiff to Nikon raw (NEF) and comes FREE from Google. And it's dead easy to use - it automatically re-saves everything as a jpeg file.
Bill

In Off-topic discussion