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This was a shot i took of looe bay, when i visited cornwall all c&c welcome thanks
These are modifications uploaded by other members of the photo above. Download the photo by right clicking Download Photo and clicking Save As.
This was shot with a nikon d7000 with standard lens 18-105 it was originaly from a raw file sorry info never came up in exif
The composition is fine with a strong shape but you look a good stop over exposed and that should have been easily dealt with in a RAW file processing. There appears to be detail lost in the buildings.
thanks very much for your advice. Its taken onboard i still have the original somewhere
I agree with the above on both composition and being a little bright. It also looks a bit oversharpened, as straight lines (like ships masts) are jagged when you look close. To take advantage of the view, best to return when early or late light is on the scene....the light then is warmer and also less harsh
A really good photograph, sorry I can't expand further due to my current posture and discomfort.
Hi Robert, nice image. I put your image into PS ACW, pulled back the highlights and adjusted the black/white. I then opened it in PS and added a gradient layer, black/white to further enhance the sky. Made a slight adjustment with levels. Hope you like it.
Thanks steven for your mod. It has really made a differance to the picture i shall have to get to know cs6 in real detail, im new to it thanks for the info and mod
Quote: i shall have to get to know cs6 in real detail,
How many years do you have to spare ! ?
As Paul has said, the only thing that's really wrong here is a little overexposure.
Stephen's mod's OK but I'd be dubious about adding a Mediteranean blue sky to an image of Cornwall. Mostly because the sky's reflection on the water's not that colour and partly because it's Corwall!
Thanks bren yes it does look daunting when your new to it. Slow and carefull i shall tread thanks for your input though, And It is always good to have a few opinions thanks
Quote: it does look daunting when your new to it.
You're absolutely right. Slow and careful will win the day.
If there's anything that you need to know, there are loads of tutorials on the internet and more than a few on here. There are also several members who know Photoshop extremely well and will be only too pleased to steer you in the right direction.
As you've seen here, we don't all think the same way or believe that the same thing works, so keep an open mind and form your own opinions.
And most important of all, if you have a question, however daft or silly it might seem to you, ask it anyway.
The chances are that not very long ago, we were all asking that same daft question!
Its a good shot Robert.
Its not actually overexposed in the sense that you have loast detail, - you havent, its simply that the HIGHLIGHTS need to be reduced a little. Thats usually reflected light, as you can likely see on the light coloured buildings, so reducing the strength of the highlights makes the detail in the buildings visible, and also will have an effect on the water surface especially. Think about looking at this scene with and without polarized sunglasses. The sunglasses reduce the glare of reflected light. You can put the same sunglasses on your lens too, - its called a Circular Polarizer. The drawback is you need a dedicated one for different diameter lenses.
Back to Photoshop CS6. This is an extremely powerful tool meant for professionals and very serious shooters. Unless you have a lot of prior Photoshop experience with other products, or you take a course specifically on CS6, your on a steep uphill climb.
The real truth is, unless you are going to be doing very complex work, you really only need to know how to perform less than a dozen specific tasks for almost everything you will ever do.
You need to know Curves, Levels, Shadow/Highlight, layers and Masks, sharpening, colour adjustment, remove a colour cast, cropping to improve a composition, and a few more.
First question for me is which RAW converter did you use? Was it CS6? If so, it has a slider specifically dedicated to highlights, and one for lights. Slide one or both to the left to reduce that specific range of light. Its that simple.
Look at the histogram (graph) thats displayed at the top of you screen in CS6 RAW. It will show you if there are areas overexposed or under exposed. It will also make those areas coloured on the screen of you click the small arrow on the left and right extremes of the graph. You now know one of the dozen or so things you will ever need to know.
If you have a JPEG, and not RAW, go to Image>adjustments>shadow/highlight; click the show more box; then slide ALL the shadow adjustments to the left to turn them off; then use the highlight slider to adjust highlights. Now you know three, because youve seen how the shadow adjustment works.
Ive uploaded a mod with this done, and a crop that might work better for the scene.
Youtube has a ton of video tutorials on CS6, and EPZ has a tutorial and a video section, both searchable, so give that a try. Be patient.
Hope this helps,
Bren, now we have the Mediterranean sky and water. Hope you approve
Many thanks Willie for your mod and the great advice you have given me. I actualy used lightroom did not have cs6 when these where taken
But i do understand how hard it can be and its very complex i only intend to learn the basics. I am more for taking the pictures just want them to be as
good as they can be many thanks for your great advice
Robert, Lightroom can do exactly the same, as it uses the same RAW engine, so everything still applies, and the adjustments look precisely the same.
thanks for the info i used to see it pop up but used to just open the images. But now i shall look at all the raw files i have again
Don't get too bogged down with software. All imaging software allows lots of tricks and adjustments. You do need to master RAW software, otherwise you might as well shoot in JPG - as I do most of the time! All you NEED to master in the most basic editing software to the most complicated is the histogram, curves (brightness/contrast) a bit of dodging and burning and the sharpening routines. You can then do everything a wet darkroom photographer did, and that covers most things.
Once you have that cracked, try other things by all means but it seems to me that some photographers get too deeply dependant on software.
Thanks for your info paul thats all i want is for my picture to look the best they can. With the basics and i enjoy the photography side of it more than been glued to the pc correcting errors
many thanks for your input
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