6D MkII Overexposure

banehawi Plus
15 2.2k 4042 Canada
25 Apr 2019 7:42PM
Had an 80D that did the same. Sent it back for calibration, made a small difference, but not a lot.

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LenShepherd 11 4.0k United Kingdom
26 Apr 2019 8:28AM

Quote: I see to be having problems with the camera tending to overexpose. (snipped) for example I took this today of some snowdrops. Ignore the fact it is out of focus, badly framed etc. Just let me know what is happening with my exposure.
I realise (snipped) or messed up a setting, but any suggestions happily received.

I presume you did not want the whitest whites in the snowdrops to be quite so bright.

What you perhaps failed to know is centre weighted metering gives an average exposure based on what is within the field of view.

This snowdrop image needs maybe half a stop less exposure than an average centre weighted meter reading to slightly reduce the exposure in the lightest parts of the snowdrop.

When aimed at predominately light or predominantly dark subject, like the stonework detail, centre weighted metering adjusts the exposure to whatever mid tone the camera is calibrated for.
With a predominantly dark subject centre weighted metering brightens the image to the mid grey point by adding exposure which is why you got the second over exposed result.
If the subject is predominantly bright (snow being a good example) centre weighted reduces exposure to the mid grey point and the snow comes out a grey tone instead of white.

Now to an important detail.
Modern forms of "auto" exposure such as Nikon Matrix or the Canon equivalent are usually very good at recognising scenes which are not average and applying exposure compensation with no input from the photographer - though not always getting perfect exposure.

If you know how to use the camera histogram; after taking the snowdrop image it should have shown a spike at the edge of the right hand side, indicating a risk of some detail being lost in the whites in the image.
With this information it would be wise to re-take the photo (the snowdrops were not going to move) at minus half and minus 1 stop exposure to remove the "white" spike a little inward of the right side of the histogram.
Digressing, sometimes a right hand spike on the edge of the histogram can be ignored if it is something like a car headlight or a spotlight on a stage show as the subject is not the light source.

My basic metering guidance for modern cameras is using spot or centre weighted needs care and often exposure compensation if the subject is not predominately the same mid tone as the one the camera is calibrated to.
With matrix or the Canon equivalent you have to accept the camera applies compensation for you (with the downside of not saying how much) and in general the photographer does not apply exposure compensate.

Going in close and measuring off a grey card does not always get perfect exposure.
One reason is few read instructions - and have not learned the instructions that come with a Kodak card advise adding half a stop when metering straight from the card.
Another reason is many variable aperture zooms (and many macros) change effective aperture for exposure by a half to one stop between minimum and infinity focus distance.

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