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A3+ Printing/Sharpness settings for D200


KevinGoodchild 19 1.2k 9 England
13 Nov 2007 9:38AM
I'm following this thread with interest as I'm about to print a number of A3 images, is it not better to resize in your RAW converter, I use capture 1 and just dial in my size when converting from RAW- 16bit TIFF ?


Kevin
pcheywood 15 1.3k England
13 Nov 2007 11:40AM
Another Qimage fan here, make a single file, and leave the rest up to Qimage, no matter what size I print at.

Paul.
sneazy 16 74 United Kingdom
13 Nov 2007 12:41PM
Kevin - never thought of doing it that way to be honest. I use C1 le. Anybody got any thoughts on that?

Paul - it is really that good? Looking on their site they say it does the Colour Management etc - how does that effect the normal way of working?

What benefits does this software bring to a real life print? Is it much sharper looking? What version do you use - Professional?

Sorry for all the questions!

Mark
JohnHorne 16 1.0k
13 Nov 2007 1:50PM
Resizing at the RAW conversion stage might be a good idea if your software can do it. C1LE doesn't allow this - you need the Pro version.

(Unless, the latest version of LE has been changed to allow this.)
pcheywood 15 1.3k England
13 Nov 2007 1:52PM
I used to print from Photoshop, but since I was put onto Qimage (recommended from this forum) I no longer use anything else.

It remembers the profiles you put in for papers and printers and adjusts the final sharpening to suit the output size. Hence, whatever I produce on screen, will be produced onto the print. You also have the option to adjust sharpness.

I'm using the studio version.

Paul.

ps.....I calibrate my papers and ink using an X-Rite Pulse, so I'm not too sure about using standard profiles with it.
Goggz 14 2.3k 72 Wales
20 Nov 2007 10:02PM
Hi sneazy,

I'm printing stuff out at A3+ from my D200 without any fancy settings and they look fine. I agree that some shots are more "sensitive", as this is possibly the max size that a non-resampled image from a D200 could be done at. In particular I am thinking of some extreme wideangle shots where the fall off in quality at the image edge begins to reveal itself - leaves being a bit fuzzy, etc., due to lens limitations.

I use an Epson 1400, using either Lightroom or CS2/3, depending on what I'm doing to the image before printing. I use relative colorimetric, set at 240dpi and turn off the ICM profile in the printer. If I mess about with the zoom during the print stage in Lightroom it automatically rejigs the dpi. I'm currently using Ilford Galerie paper and Epson inks but will be changing over to a continuous ink system very soon.

I once tried the Epson "Masterclass" method of upsampling and downsampling that is espoused in Digital SLR USer and found it made a horrible mess of my prints. It created banding instead of removing it. I've also been privileged to physically compare a print "created" by them for someone who won their Readers Gallery Competition to one printed out by the winner on the same sort of art paper, using an identical printer. The difference in quality was impressive- the "professional" print was appalling and the one the winner printed out was superb.

What they were trying to get at with their Masterclass method I have no idea, but I've never done any of that crap again and nobody in my local camera club has anything but favourable comments on the A3+ print quality I show them. Still don't win much tho'... Sad

Interestingly, they seem to have dropped the printing masterclass from the mag, but it could be that it had run it's term anyway...

In summary, the moral of this diatribe is that normal printer and sharpening settings aren't at all bad. I tend to very slightly oversharpen for printing. I guess the main influence is, as Cheryl has said, that the chosen dpi should work in harmony with the capability of the printhead.

Hope this helps and good luck in your endeavours!

Cheers, Goggz

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