Anyone else experienced this?

For the past couple of years I have been disappointed in the number of my images which are blurred in camera when shooting handheld.
Now I know my hands are not as steady now as in younger years, but it is frustrating when you use all your experience in holding the camera still, and only get a deletable image.
Frustration is a very minor word to describe my feelings, and, after hours playing with settings and menus and lenses etc I was nearly ready to pack my love up for good.
Nothing wrong with equipment, as on a tripod, good, sharp images.
This was happening on my E-3, Em-5 and Panasonic FZ1000 all the time.
Then, I took some images with my old E-1's and E-330 and the the problem disappeared!!!! Nice sharp images right out of the camera, so where did the problem lie ? What is the difference in the first three and the older models?
Image stabilization .
The older models do not have this feature. So I switched off all image stabilization in the first three models and, hey ho, sharp images again.
I can only surmise that the slight shake in my hands was enough to upset the mechanism a fraction at point of shoot.
I have started using more ISO to compensate for light and am now looking forward to see if my image count improves.
Any comments or observation welcome,
David
Now I know my hands are not as steady now as in younger years, but it is frustrating when you use all your experience in holding the camera still, and only get a deletable image.
Frustration is a very minor word to describe my feelings, and, after hours playing with settings and menus and lenses etc I was nearly ready to pack my love up for good.
Nothing wrong with equipment, as on a tripod, good, sharp images.
This was happening on my E-3, Em-5 and Panasonic FZ1000 all the time.
Then, I took some images with my old E-1's and E-330 and the the problem disappeared!!!! Nice sharp images right out of the camera, so where did the problem lie ? What is the difference in the first three and the older models?
Image stabilization .
The older models do not have this feature. So I switched off all image stabilization in the first three models and, hey ho, sharp images again.
I can only surmise that the slight shake in my hands was enough to upset the mechanism a fraction at point of shoot.
I have started using more ISO to compensate for light and am now looking forward to see if my image count improves.
Any comments or observation welcome,
David

It is difficult to comment specifically without more information.
It may surprise some to learn that when Olympus brought in a pneumatic shutter damper in the late 1960's they advised that some sharp shots were possible at one times the focal length of the shutter lens, but that a better success ratio possible was with two times.
Many recent Nikon and Canon lenses have tripod mode VR/IS although apparently Sony do not. Whether VR/IS is a problem on a tripod depends in part on the mechanism, the stability of the tripod and issues like side winds and traffic vibration.
A small number of extremely fit photographers can safely handhold and get sharp shots at half the equivalent of the focal length of the lens - and some need twice or three times the focal length for sharp shots.
If you take photos of something like a newspaper taped to a wall you will be able to work out what your safe and holding speed is for sharp shots compared to the focal length of the lens you are using.
Seemingly minor issues such as drinking a lot of coffee can reduce handholding ability.
Focusing close as in more image magnification also usually requires faster shutter speeds for sharp images
It may surprise some to learn that when Olympus brought in a pneumatic shutter damper in the late 1960's they advised that some sharp shots were possible at one times the focal length of the shutter lens, but that a better success ratio possible was with two times.
Many recent Nikon and Canon lenses have tripod mode VR/IS although apparently Sony do not. Whether VR/IS is a problem on a tripod depends in part on the mechanism, the stability of the tripod and issues like side winds and traffic vibration.
A small number of extremely fit photographers can safely handhold and get sharp shots at half the equivalent of the focal length of the lens - and some need twice or three times the focal length for sharp shots.
If you take photos of something like a newspaper taped to a wall you will be able to work out what your safe and holding speed is for sharp shots compared to the focal length of the lens you are using.
Seemingly minor issues such as drinking a lot of coffee can reduce handholding ability.
Focusing close as in more image magnification also usually requires faster shutter speeds for sharp images

Taken in order.
Pink:- All the cameras have 3 options and I have tried them all.
DaveRyder:- none of mine have this feature ( they are older models ) but you may well be correct, I will
investigate further.
Len Shepherd:- thanks for reminding me of long forgotten information, something else for me to investigate. I have not considered shutter speed enough, now I regret deleting all those blurred images.
further. Coffee is not a problem, Len, but tea might not help
All my cameras state to turn IS off when using a tripod, this is what started me thinking along those lines, and I do use electronic shutter most of the time.
I am using ISO to try and keep shutter speed up above 1/500. Still early days, so watch this space
Pink:- All the cameras have 3 options and I have tried them all.
DaveRyder:- none of mine have this feature ( they are older models ) but you may well be correct, I will
investigate further.
Len Shepherd:- thanks for reminding me of long forgotten information, something else for me to investigate. I have not considered shutter speed enough, now I regret deleting all those blurred images.

further. Coffee is not a problem, Len, but tea might not help

All my cameras state to turn IS off when using a tripod, this is what started me thinking along those lines, and I do use electronic shutter most of the time.
I am using ISO to try and keep shutter speed up above 1/500. Still early days, so watch this space


Quote:Taken in order.
Pink:- All the cameras have 3 options and I have tried them all.
DaveRyder:- none of mine have this feature ( they are older models ) but you may well be correct, I will
investigate further.
Len Shepherd:- thanks for reminding me of long forgotten information, something else for me to investigate. I have not considered shutter speed enough, now I regret deleting all those blurred images.

Coffee is not a problem, Len, but tea might not help

All my cameras state to turn IS off when using a tripod, this is what started me thinking along those lines, and I do use electronic shutter most of the time.
I am using ISO to try and keep shutter speed up above 1/500. Still early days, so watch this space


Quote:
All my cameras state to turn IS off when using a tripod,
The lens instructions for many recent Canon & Nikon cameras to some extent over-ride the camera manual - as recent lenses often have tripod mode IS/VR detection.
The specifics with many recent lenses is that IS/VR on will often produce sharper shots on a tripod - unless shooting conditions are near perfect - perhaps shooting with a £500 tripod on a concrete base.
Further guidance will be in the lens instructions.

When I first tried shooting a time-lapse I left the IS on. When I brought the images into my editor, I was really surprised with the amount of movement that the images had between shots. I now turn off IS if I'm using a tripod, and don't have that problem.
(In fairness though, that was with a camera from about 2010 and I think the lens was approx. 2005
)
(In fairness though, that was with a camera from about 2010 and I think the lens was approx. 2005


Quote:When I first tried shooting a time-lapse I left the IS on. When I brought the images into my editor, I was really surprised with the amount of movement that the images had between shots. I now turn off IS if I'm using a tripod, and don't have that problem.
(In fairness though, that was with a camera from about 2010 and I think the lens was approx. 2005

Interesting info, Alex, so it is not just me




Quote:When I first tried shooting a time-lapse I left the IS on. When I brought the images into my editor,
With Canon in lens IS the IS is not entered in the optical axis - some variation is likely between frames in a time lapse sequence.
With Nikon DSLR's then lens VR is cantered in the optical axis as the mirror rises - with relatively few framing differences between shots.
With IBIS - there is likely to be differences between shots with either system.

Quote:For years I have always used AP but, like you, recently I was dumping more images than I was keeping and on another forum someone suggested to go over to SP, set it to 1/500, I usually keep the aperture at f4, the default at full zoom and set ISO to Auto.
By the way, I have a Sony RX10M4
Thanks for that, I will give it a trial, love to get a definitive answer, unfortunately getting younger is not an option


