Manual focus peaking levels.

I suspect that the only way to get really sharp star photos is by stacking them. As far as I understand peaking levels (and I never use it as I find it is just a step too far for me to cope with!) it is really concerned with exposure rather than sharpness - i.e. under or over exposure will be shown by a flashing on the screen. A book I have on the Sony A7 recommends setting it to medium or low as high is way too sensitive. But personally I wouldn't turn it on for astro photography. Speed and light are your first priorities which is why stacking is the means that many photographers use to take clear photos. Stacking can also give you the advantage of making the surrounding area clear enough to gove a backdrop to your skies.

I cant see any likelihood of peaking being useful for Astro.
Its a form of contrast detection, a bit like using find edges in photoshop. By definition stars have a high level of contrast to the background, so will almost always show peaking effects well before they are in sharp focus.
Its probably best to use live view or EVF enlarged as far as it can be rather than peaking for very high contrast subject like stars or the sun/moon on waves.
Its a form of contrast detection, a bit like using find edges in photoshop. By definition stars have a high level of contrast to the background, so will almost always show peaking effects well before they are in sharp focus.
Its probably best to use live view or EVF enlarged as far as it can be rather than peaking for very high contrast subject like stars or the sun/moon on waves.

Quote:Thanks for your input random rubble but errr what's EVF please?
Electronic ViewFinder.
As opposed to an Optical Viewfinder., you see the changes to settings as you adjust them - i.e. if you, for example, alter the aperture or shutter speed, you actually see the image in the viewfinder getting darker or lighter - what you see is what you get, in other words.