Mirrorless and Colourchecker Passport?
Hi, Just moved across to mirrorless from DSLR and with DSLR always used a Colourchecker Passport for camera colour calibration when editing in Lightroom and just wondered do you still need that with mirrorless cameras? Many Thanks, Russ.
Yes, I did this for my Lumix Bridge Camera and I am about to buy some Sony ML kit as my Canon DSLR is too heavy. I will calibrate when it arrives. I also calibrated my converted Infrared camera and this is well worthwhile but you need to follow the Adobe Labs instructions for IR.
Dave
Dave
Thanks guys, Dave you will not be sorry on the Sony side I just did it myself Canon to Sony A9 found the hardest part was not to use the Sony as you would a DSLR for exposures but getting there, Russ.
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Quote:Sony A9 found the hardest part was not to use the Sony as you would a DSLR for exposures but getting there,
What have you discovered that makes it " not to use " ?
Been using a Sony mirrorless for a year and not noticed any difference re- exposure.
Hi, I always try to shoot in manual mode infact used a hand held light meter rather than rely on the cameras meter and with mirrorless I kept reading that what you see is what you get when it comes to exposure and the problem I have is that when shooting birds in woods or even in hedge rows by the time I get what I think is the right exposure my shutter speed is far to low or the ISO is very high, only been at it for a couple months and will find my best way but still learning the camera. Thankyou, Russ.
I am somewhat delighted to read your comments Russ. Having loved my Sony alpha 850, but like many, found it all too heavy to carry, so switched to a Sony A7. I've now had it for 2+ years and when I actually stop thinking how I have always done it, I can get a great image, but there have been so many disastrous ventures and a feeling in myself of complete incompetence. But thanks to John Duder, who has given me both some insights and the courage to continue, I am getting better. But I have found it a very steep learning curve and being isolated for so long has not helped (I have asthma so am very concerned to stay safe). To hear that there is someone else who has found the transition problematic is somewhat comforting. 
I gave using the colour checker passport a try both with a DSLR & Mirrorless and did not see much difference than my software's profile.
I suspect for colour critical, product shots for example, it would be useful but for landscapes having to take a shot of the passport whenever the light, aperture changed etc was a chore and to be honest I could not be bothered !
I suspect for colour critical, product shots for example, it would be useful but for landscapes having to take a shot of the passport whenever the light, aperture changed etc was a chore and to be honest I could not be bothered !
Quote:I gave using the colour checker passport a try both with a DSLR & Mirrorless and did not see much difference than my software's profile.
Did you do a camera calibration using the Passport and Lightroom/Photoshop?
I have done my cameras both with the Pasport in full sun and also with the Passport in overcast light. Thus I have two profiles (sunny & overcast) for each camera body.
On looking at the image of the Passport in Adobe Standard Pofile and then switching to the appropriate bespoke profile you will see certain colours jump. The colours may not move much but the saturation of certain colours (in my case blue, purple and reds) will change enormously.
You do not have to include the Passport in every shot as long as you have the two basic ones as outlined. These basic ones will probably do for 90% of your shots.
Probably worth watching this short video where it shows the execution and results better than I can explain them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0EcS5NK6_4
Yes if you still want to colour match to other camera`s/sensors.
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the problem I have is that when shooting birds in woods or even in hedge rows by the time I get what I think is the right exposure my shutter speed is far to low or the ISO is very high, only been at it for a couple months and will find my best way but still learning the camera. Thank you, Russ.
Light in a hedgerow can have a green colour cast from the green leaves - and some foliage can be much darker than an average scene.
Taking a spot reading off a gray card where you expect the bird to be will usually be impracticable
If you can "translate" the information on a histogram after taking a test exposure of where you expect the bird to be you can use the histogram information to set a manual exposure.
In Lightroom in the basic Edit option you can use Temperature and Tint to quickly adjust colour balance when you get a green tint. Several other makes of software (some free) have similar options.
When you get more experienced you can learn to recognise lighting with a colour caste and can then use presets to adjust colour balance when shooting in these light conditions.
