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Nikon D7000 Bracketing????

albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
9 Jan 2012 10:54PM
Hello everybody.

I have recently upgraded from a Nikon D3100 to a D7000.
This was mainly due to the fact that I am in love, really, with HDR.
However, just like with the D3100, I can't seem to get 3 still photos of anything.
Always first photo has slight movement to the other 2 photos.
I have tried everything and this is driving me crazy.
I have done the bracketing in automatic mode by using this feature which is part of the Nikon D7000.
I have used a wireless remote shutter release and have used the timer which is quite good as the camera fires all 3 shots in one go.
But still there is a difference between the first photo and the last two as if the camera has moved or the tripod.
The tripod I am using is a Manfrotto 055XPROB with a 804RC2 head. I think I have got everything to successfully achieve this but no matter what I do its happening all the while.
Any idea anyone? Has this happened to anybody out there? If so, how did you sort it out?
Any comments are more than welcome.

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strawman 14 22.1k 16 United Kingdom
9 Jan 2012 11:05PM
What lens are you using? If it has IS have you turned it off for tripod use? The IS drift could cause this.

Other thoughts for the best Tripod mounted shots I use mirror lock up (does putting your camera into live view do this for you?) and set a self timer delay of 10 seconds then have the shots taken at maximum frame rate (or I use a remote trigger). Also turn of auto focus just in case it tries to re-focus for each shot.
albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
9 Jan 2012 11:31PM
Hi Strawman.

Thanks for the fast reply.

I must say I totally forgotten about the IS feature. I have read about this in the past.

About the auto focus, yes, I do focus once only and then switch it to manual.

I am using self timer of 2s and tried 5 and 10s.

The lens I am using is the standard 18 - 105mm DX AF-S ED that came with it.

I will have to read about mirror lock up. When on live view, yes the mirror does look up.

Any more help, tips, are more than welcome.

User_Removed 8 4.6k 1 Scotland
10 Jan 2012 10:39AM
Remember that, when shooting a sequence of bracketed shots for HDR, you must use Aperture Priority to ensure that all the exposures are taken at the same aperture. Otherwise each shot will have a different depth of field.

Also make sure that your HDR software is set to auto-align the images. Both Nik HDR Efex and Photomatix have this facility.
albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
10 Jan 2012 5:42PM
Hi Leftforum.

I am and always have been using manual mode (M). This should just as work, shouldn't it?

On the software yes. That is an always ticket option.

Any more comments/tips more than welcome.

User_Removed 8 4.6k 1 Scotland
10 Jan 2012 6:53PM

Quote:Hi Leftforum.

I am and always have been using manual mode (M). This should just as work, shouldn't it?


You can bracket manually if you wish - but be sure to keep the aperture the same in all shots for HDR.

The problem with Manual mode - related to your original question - is that if you touch the camera between exposures to make manual adjustments, then there is always the risk of causing some movement. I prefer, when taking multiple exposures for HDR, to use Aperture priority and auto-bracketing which, on Nikons, gives you much more scope than, say, Canons. I often take 9 exposures even although I know I may not use them all. It is surprising how often, after examining the histograms, I do not use the exact middle values. In a 9-shot sequence, it may be exposures 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 (say) that best cover the dynamic range I am looking for. Or I may just use alternate exposures, say 4, 6 and 8 if, after examining them, they seems to give adequate cover. The point is that, by taking more than you might need, you leave the options open until you get the Raw files into Lightroom or ACR (or whatever you use). Sometimes you have to make a choice between ultimate dynamic range and excessive noise.

albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
10 Jan 2012 8:59PM
Hi Leftforum.

I understand what you are saying.

However, I am using manual mode but the using the auto bracketing feature.

You said 9 exposures??? I can only take max of 3 with my Nikon D7000.

What I am doing is after setting the frame, I use not only a wireless trigger but also the timer feature which will take all three shots, one after another, continually.

This is why I don't understand why the difference in the picture. And there was no wind what so ever.

It seems to always be the first shot though.

Appreciate your help and again any more comments are always welcome.

I am still learning the technique.

albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
10 Jan 2012 9:44PM
Hi everyone.

I have just tried a phew shots at home.

I took them in sequence (bracketing) and they are great. The problem is now gone.

The only thing I have done was to switch off VR on my lens.

I done a few shots (3 only) with VR on and there you go. Again the difference in the frames.

I think I have got it now. Ready for another day out.

It is a shame that I can't do more than 3 shots in a row though but hey, its better than doing it manually as I was on my D3100.

Any more tip guys?

Thanks ever so much to all of you.

strawman 14 22.1k 16 United Kingdom
10 Jan 2012 9:54PM
*** Edit posts crossed***

Can I claim my 5 for correct diagnostics Tongue

Glad you understand it.

Back to basic question, not a Nikon owner but a quick google revealed an 18-105 lens that has Vr, so is your lens a VR one, and have you remembered to turn the VR off? If not it is an excellent explanation for the frame by frame shift. Or there is the question of if it is IS does it have a problem with the VR lens element not being locked (lens fault).

Another explanation is that somehow your tripod or its head is moving. So have you checked the security of your tripod mount and legs etc.

To my thinking the best way to configure your camera is;
VR or IS off
Manual focus
Liveview mode
Aperture priority with bracketing mode selected at maximum frame rate
Self timer set to 10 seconds
Remote shutter release
Stand well back and stop breathing (only kidding)

I think your camera can only do 3 frame exposure bracketing like my SLR, but I have a Canon compact that with the firmware hack keeps on taking photo's a ever widening exposures till you release the shutter.
albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
10 Jan 2012 10:12PM
My lens is a VR and I hadn't switch it off never.

I have just done it at home and tried the bracketing and yeah. It worked fine!

Will look into maximum frame rate.

Cheers mate.

User_Removed 8 4.6k 1 Scotland
11 Jan 2012 11:27AM

Are you sure the D7000 only allows 3 exposures in bracketing?

Can't understand why Nikon should reduce this feature so drastically in a new model. Both my Nikon dSLRs allow up to 9 exposures at increments of 0.3, 0.7 or 1.0 stops.

Not like Nikon to "progress" backwards!
discreetphoton 13 3.5k 20 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 11:46AM
That's a different line though. Both the D80 and D90 only do three shot bracketing. However, you can bracket up to 2 stops apart, rather than the paltry 1 stop gap in the D200 and 300 models. Effectively you can cover the same range in three shots as you would with five from the higher tier cameras.
albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 5:37PM
Like discreetphoton said, it allows only 3 shots but with a wide rage from a third to a full 2 stop.

Hopefully Nikon will bring an update and give this a bit more. I was hopping for 5 at least but hey...
RogBrown 11 3.1k 10 England
11 Jan 2012 10:00PM
If they're anything like Sony don't bank on it. Sad
albertc 6 9 United Kingdom
14 Jan 2012 4:33AM
Hi everybody.

I am on my way to work today (sadly) but shall be ready for some photos this Sunday and/or Monday.

Thanks for all the help and comments.

Really appreciate the help.

Have a nice week everybody.


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