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Opening in CS3 - Shadows/Blacks all redish!


hobee100 12 9 Scotland
9 Jan 2012 4:34PM
Any help/advice of where I'm going wrong would be appreciated?

I finally more time to get taking more photos.

I was trying out using a couple of lights yesterday. The pictures are all a bit underexposed but as it was first time I was reasonably happy.

Anyway now I'm trying to edit/play around with them a bit i'm having problems in CS3.

The shadows/black areas all look OK when i view them outside CS3 but when i open them the shadow/black areas turn all redish and blotchy (if this makes sense).

Any help why this may be happening would be appreciated as I've tried for hours and can't prevent this Sad

Thanks
Grant

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Pete Plus
18 18.8k 97 England
11 Jan 2012 4:19PM
Could you do a screen grab and post so we can see exactly what you mean?
digicammad 16 22.0k 39 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 4:23PM
It isn't some sort of low light (as in opposite of highlight) warning is it?
lawbert 13 1.8k 15 England
11 Jan 2012 4:30PM
As Pete has said a sceen grab would certainly help.

I find the Shadow Highlight option In CS 3 the most uncomplicated and useful tool to deal with a little under exposure...or over exposure!

Im not to sure myself how to do a screen grab but perhaps Pete or Someone could explain how to do it here...Im guessing hes looking for the picture open in CS3 before you start any editing or drop down menus?
NEWMANP 11 1.6k 574 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 4:30PM
Ive had similar, its when the shadows are totally blocked up and underexposed and then you try and adjust curves by any significant amount it seems to bring out these weird colours in the darkest areas. i suppose its when you try to bring back detail when the file hasnt that information recorded. the shadow highlight tool will also make it look even worse if it isnt there.

secret is to switch to exposing to the right side of the histo because there isnt any information much on the left (dark side), its all on the mid to right. but dont blow the highlights either.

Phil
Pete Plus
18 18.8k 97 England
11 Jan 2012 4:43PM
I would have though it was the out od range warning but the blotchy bit made me think this was not correct, because the warnings are not blotchy but just a colour fill. That's why the screen grab will be useful.

To do a screengrab. Open your photo in CS3 so you can see the problem. Then press the print screen button ( top right of keyboard) This copy's the whole screen area to the clip board. Open a new file in Photoshop and paste to see the screen. Then crop out anything you don't want us to see , save and then upload the image into this forum thread.
CathyT 13 7.3k 18 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 5:26PM
Is Gamut Warning ticked?...its on the View menu.
hobee100 12 9 Scotland
11 Jan 2012 7:31PM
black.jpg



Hopefully the image shows up OK. This is part of an unedited RAW file.

I think I'm going to embarrass myself Sad here and show I've massively underexposed some of the pictures, I just thought the shadow areas would have been a bit smother.

Now that I'm getting more time (after about 4th and final retirement from my football) I'm willing to learn/accept any criticism so please don't worry about offering any as I won't be offended as I want to learn how to improve.

Thanks again,
Grant
CathyT 13 7.3k 18 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 7:51PM
I think thats noise or where you have pushed the blacks to much and its gone all blocky and yucky.....a common problem when trying to rescue an underexposed shot. ........probably best to re shoot....or try editing in 16 bit see if it makes a difference.
hobee100 12 9 Scotland
11 Jan 2012 9:33PM
Thanks Cathy and everyone for responses.

It's a learning curve for me Smile I think I started off trying to be too smart using manual settings, having read a bit since I think I should have used aperture priority .... with one 4 year old being bribed with her xmas chocolate to sit for 5 minutes time went quicker than I thought!

Thanks again
Grant
BigRick 14 2.1k 3 United Kingdom
11 Jan 2012 10:15PM
If you are using studio lights then you have to use full manual, unless they are continuous lights. It wont meter correctly otherwise. Plenty of threads on here about studio lighting and how to set the camera. Smile

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