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Sensor cleaning

collywobles 17 4.1k 10 United Kingdom
31 Dec 2015 7:08PM
As long as you are careful cleaning the sensor is easy, just treat it all with respect and care and it will be fine
31 Dec 2015 7:45PM
All your advice has been brilliant and I've a plan of action

1) I need a better blower brush, mine is a wee cheapy and I think could be sucking as much dust back in for me to squirt back out again.

2) A cleaning kit

3) The magnifier (looks a great idea)

4) Steady hands (I do possess these as used to do a lot of fly tying and now do embroidery)

5) Nerves of steel (my camera is my baby)

6) I CAN DO THIS!! (confidence is a great thing)

THANK YOU EVERYONE AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL (I will let you know the results next year)
StrayCat 17 19.1k 3 Canada
31 Dec 2015 8:17PM
I read in a photo magazine years ago that the best blower for cleaning might be one of those thingamajigs for cleaning out babies noses. Clean it first though.Smile
colin beeley Plus
18 1.2k 10 England
1 Jan 2016 4:44PM
don't shoot a f/16 ! if you are shooting landscape no need .
Philh04 Plus
16 2.3k United Kingdom
1 Jan 2016 4:59PM
Dust in or on the lens will not show up on the sensor.... With a full frame camera f16 is quite feasible, I will shoot quite happily at f16 on my 1Ds2.

Redshot you don't say which software package you are using, if you use DPP you can set dust delete data that may help with the endless spotting...

Best wishes

1 Jan 2016 6:19PM
I shoot at f/16 a lot of the time with my 6D. All my processing is done in Lr but to be honest I still have a lot to learn about it and I dont know if it would also have dust delete or something similar. Would be great if it has and then I would need advice on how to use it Wink
Nigeve1 8 1.4k 101 United Kingdom
1 Jan 2016 6:57PM
Makes sense to keep the sensor clean to facilitate shooting at all apatures as and when necessary. Dust will clearly be more apparent at narrow apatures, although best avoided to minimise diffraction effects, I find myself using f16 or even f22 for landscape images where DOF often takes precedence unless one is to accept focus stacking or use of a tilt/shift lens.
Philh04 Plus
16 2.3k United Kingdom
1 Jan 2016 8:33PM
Dust on the sensor has nothing to do with diffraction effects..


With a little bit of work it can be done in Lightroom, although lightroom does not support Dust Delete Data you can (sort of) replicate it and it may not work with all images.

Take an image of a plain wall or sky, use the spot removal tool to get rid of the dust bunnies, then go to copy settings, deselect everything and then select 'spot removal'... That can then be saved as a preset...

Will not work 100% of the time but may be worth taking a bit of time...



Nigeve1 8 1.4k 101 United Kingdom
2 Jan 2016 10:19AM

Quote:Dust on the sensor has nothing to do with diffraction effects..

I wasn't suggesting that it has. Sensor dust is more apparent on images when a narrow apature is used. Also when a narrow apature is used image quality / sharpness is negatively affected due to a greater proportion of light reaching the sensor being scattered by diffraction at the apature periphery. My point was that in landscape photography (and sometimes other genres ) it is sometimes necessary to select a narrower apature than ideal for diffraction effects in order to get adequate depth of field. It is therefore better to have a clean sensor at all times to facilitate this, I would not wish to restrict myself to wider apatures in order to make the image effects of sensor dust less apparent.
Philh04 Plus
16 2.3k United Kingdom
2 Jan 2016 10:51AM
Was me not reading your reply properly... I know full well what diffraction is, I earned a living in close-up/macro photography for 35years...

Yes you are right in that a sensor needs to be as clean as you can get it so that you can use a smaller aperture, much the same as macro, however with the advent of digital we were able to work at wider apertures and focus stack... I have yet to try stacking in landscape work... maybe something for me to try this year.

Best wishes

Philh04 Plus
16 2.3k United Kingdom
2 Jan 2016 11:02AM

My fault you cannot save spot removal as a preset, I would still go ahead and take an image of a white piece of paper or similar, carefully remove the dust spots then place that image into a separate collection so that when you need to remove spots just go to that image > copy settings > uncheck all and select spot removal, you can just paste the settings into the image you want to work on. Hopefully that will eventually save you time retouching.

All the best

Chris_L 7 5.5k United Kingdom
4 Jan 2016 10:47AM
Can't you avoid f16 for landscape photos by calculating hyperfocal distances and not stopping down so far?
Nigeve1 8 1.4k 101 United Kingdom
7 Jan 2016 10:00PM

Quote:Can't you avoid f16 for landscape photos by calculating hyperfocal distances and not stopping down so far?

I agree Chris, generally f8 or 11 is adequate in most cases to maintain full front to back sharpness and that is my preference. Sometimes f16 or narrower is desirable; for example at 28mm on a FF sensor, hyperfocal distance is 2.4m and everything from 1.3m to infinity is "in focus", sometimes a nearby feature may be less than 1.3m, so a narrower aperture is necessary, f16 would allow from1m and f22 from 0.62m. The other point with hyperfocal distance is that it will only render near and far objects as acceptably sharp. In my experience if the image is to be viewed at any considerable size when printed, it is necessary to be more conservative with focus distance than HFD charts would suggest as distant and near objects can tend to appear soft (it depends what you feel is acceptably sharp, there being only one true plane of focus at any aperture). I particularly like to see texture and detail in distant features and tend to sacrifice close focus for that, if anything. Where limits are being pushed in this respect, location tests I have done in my hands give a better overall result with a slightly narrower aperture, so that is what I tend to use where necessary. I would think that this may be partly lens dependent, some performing better at narrow apertures than others, for me, Zeiss prime lenses do well at this. The resolving power of the camera sensor will also be significant, higher pixel densities being more demanding.
The other option is to do a focus stack of several images (at optimal aperture for sharpness) combined in post, I use that technique also.
There is one instance which I also use quite frequently where f16 or f22 is almost always preferable; to produce good sunstars where it is compositionally desirable. All of these situations require a clean sensor.
14 Mar 2016 9:11PM
I have cleaned my sensor to great success and at f/16 have a spotless white screen on my monitor, so pleased and happy to save myself that money which can now be put towards a new ND filter after drowning the last one. Thank you everyone for your input.Smile

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